Simple header question...

[1966-C20]

First of all, nice site. Some of you guys have rediculous trucks! Wow.

Here are the details:

1966 C-20 w/283 and 3 on tree and 78k orig. on the clock
Basically, it is all stock. My work truck.

My question is this:
Cracked manifold on left bank and looking to replace with something better/more permanent and LESS RUSTY. Don't want to spend the $$$500+ on name brand stainless headers so have any of you used these cheap ebay headers?

Particularly looking at these 2:
Huggers:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-Ch...Q5fAccessories

And these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-C...Q5fAccessories

Just speculating here, but, the huggers look like the least amount of re-work I'll need to do in order to mate up the existing exhaust work (straight back duals). But my concern w/ these is the motor mounts. Will I have to bang on the headers a bit w/ my ballpean to clear the mounts? Chopping up mounts is a no-go.

Let me know. Thanks guys.

1966-C20

[502tripower]

I think you will have more problems using cheap headers than if you found another OEM exhust manifold...Those things are going to rust leak and be a nusance... JM2 cents...Good Luck

[jonzcustomshop]

headers have a fun nickname- hedaches
if you really do want some the block huggers would probably be the least amount of work.

while you are at it run a compression check on that side of the motor, a cracked manifold can sometimes cause a burnt valve

[Captainfab]

Those first ones, I'm not sure they will clear the bellcrank, and the second set almost definitely won't.

If it were me, I'd just get a set of name brand steel headers. Hedman makes headers that fit this year of trucks and they are reasonably priced.....check summitracing.com. If you get a set of steel headers, and a couple cans of high temp header paint, strip off the factory paint and repaint, they will last a long time. The set on my '66 Suburban have been on there for 120,000 miles.....