Drum Brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ulakovic22 · 02-18-2009, 08:52 PM

Hey everyone, I've never done drum brakes before so I searched on here and just random stuff on yahoo and got an idea of what I should do. I finished up tonight and took some pics with my cell to see if I did it right. Also if there is a FAQ or something on changing drums on here can you please link it because I didn't have much luck.

Thanks!

P.S. I got rid of the emergency brake stuff so if you notice a bracket and a dogbone missing it's on purpose. If I didn't do it right let me know.

68gmsee · 02-18-2009, 09:48 PM

From the looks of the brake shoes, it looks like you may not need to do them yet.

Anyway, you Basically start dismantling by pulling the springs off and retainers on the shoes. You have good pics so you can put everything back the way it was. Pretty cut and dry.

Some people use the special brake tools that you can buy at auto parts stores but I usually use vise grips to remove and replace the springs. I also use a pair of duck bills for the retianer cap removal and replacement.

ulakovic22 · 02-18-2009, 10:58 PM

Sorry for the confusion, but I already did them and I was asking someone to check my work. I've never done them before so I just looked at some pics and did the best I could.

lordhelmet · 02-19-2009, 02:51 AM

Here's a pick I took of mine before dismantle....

grayw0lf · 02-19-2009, 09:42 AM

You've already done one of the best things off the start, & thats the pics. Its also helpful to du just 1 side at a time.
I've used special tools, but I actually prefer to use just a plain old pair of needle nose pliers & a 6" thin screwdriver. The screwdriver bends slightly & makes it easier to reinstall the springs.

68gmsee · 02-19-2009, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ulakovic22

Sorry for the confusion, but I already did them and I was asking someone to check my work. I've never done them before so I just looked at some pics and did the best I could.

Gotch.. In that case look carefully at this pic and compare. The only thing I notice in your pic is the spring that pulls on the drum on the left side seems to be binding. Not sure why.

MrC1 · 02-19-2009, 10:51 AM

It looks like you forgot the cross bar thingie (forgot the name, so that's the technical term I'm going with). It keeps the shoes from collapsing too far together and sits just below the wheel cylinder. It has a sring on one side, wrapped around the bar.

68gmsee · 02-19-2009, 11:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MrC1

It looks like you forgot the cross bar thingie (forgot the name, so that's the technical term I'm going with). It keeps the shoes from collapsing too far together and sits just below the wheel cylinder. It has a sring on one side, wrapped around the bar.

Parking brake strut/lever. He said he removed the parking brake stuff. Not sure if that's what makes it seem like it's binding.

**VetteVet** · 02-19-2009, 11:52 AM

A couple of things.
It appears that you have two primary shoes on the backing plate. The front shoe should be the one with less material on it and the rear should be the one with the most.
Look at lordhelmet's picture and you'll see what I mean. If all four of your shoes are the same then it shouldn't matter.
I hope you plan on running the emergency brake cause if you lose the hydraulic action you may need to stop and can't, then you'll wish you had them.

ulakovic22 · 02-20-2009, 06:04 PM

Thanks for the pics guys that really helped. All four are the same thickness so I hope I'm ok there. I did notice that the black spring is binding and it's because I put the "thing" on upside down. My hook is in on the bottom and ya'lls is on the top. I'm gonna swap sides and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks for the pics.

Riveted1 · 02-20-2009, 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ulakovic22

Thanks for the pics guys that really helped. All four are the same thickness so I hope I'm ok there. I did notice that the black spring is binding and it's because I put the "thing" on upside down. My hook is in on the bottom and ya'lls is on the top. I'm gonna swap sides and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks for the pics.

Ya I noticed that yesterday, but I didn't know what the "thing" was called, so I didn't reply.

Glad u figured it out!

68gmsee · 02-20-2009, 06:17 PM

One more thing I noticed. The small piece that's called the shoe guide seems to be somewhat off center in your pic. Make sure it's all the way in and flush on the stude.

FYI: Also, it's not the thickness of the shoe that VetteVet was referring to. It's the length of the material on the shoe. Usually there's two lengths a short and a long. Look at the pics on the examples. But, if the length is the same on all of them, then there's nothing to worry about -it's just that some manufacturers make them differently.

02-18-2009, 08:52 PM	#1
ulakovic22 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lantana, TX Posts: 419	Drum Brakes Hey everyone, I've never done drum brakes before so I searched on here and just random stuff on yahoo and got an idea of what I should do. I finished up tonight and took some pics with my cell to see if I did it right. Also if there is a FAQ or something on changing drums on here can you please link it because I didn't have much luck. Thanks! P.S. I got rid of the emergency brake stuff so if you notice a bracket and a dogbone missing it's on purpose. If I didn't do it right let me know.

02-18-2009, 09:48 PM	#2
68gmsee Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area. Posts: 7,947	Re: Drum Brakes From the looks of the brake shoes, it looks like you may not need to do them yet. Anyway, you Basically start dismantling by pulling the springs off and retainers on the shoes. You have good pics so you can put everything back the way it was. Pretty cut and dry. Some people use the special brake tools that you can buy at auto parts stores but I usually use vise grips to remove and replace the springs. I also use a pair of duck bills for the retianer cap removal and replacement.

02-18-2009, 10:58 PM	#3
ulakovic22 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lantana, TX Posts: 419	Re: Drum Brakes Sorry for the confusion, but I already did them and I was asking someone to check my work. I've never done them before so I just looked at some pics and did the best I could.

02-19-2009, 02:51 AM	#4
lordhelmet Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: BC Posts: 13	Re: Drum Brakes Here's a pick I took of mine before dismantle.... Attached Images

02-19-2009, 09:42 AM	#5
grayw0lf Registered User Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Clanton, AL Posts: 1,253	Re: Drum Brakes You've already done one of the best things off the start, & thats the pics. Its also helpful to du just 1 side at a time. I've used special tools, but I actually prefer to use just a plain old pair of needle nose pliers & a 6" thin screwdriver. The screwdriver bends slightly & makes it easier to reinstall the springs. __________________ 85' CUCV M1009!!! The newest addition! 6.2diesel, Th400, NP208, & only 36k miles! 70' C-10 LWB Fleetside - Looking good these days! 05' Dodge Neon 88' Winner Escape Sport 1750 - 4.3v6 94' Seadoo SP 84' Honda TRX200, bare nekkid. Just a frame & tires. Always looking for another project or any good deal!

02-19-2009, 10:51 AM	#7
MrC1 Dork For Days Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Dallas Posts: 407	Re: Drum Brakes It looks like you forgot the cross bar thingie (forgot the name, so that's the technical term I'm going with). It keeps the shoes from collapsing too far together and sits just below the wheel cylinder. It has a sring on one side, wrapped around the bar. __________________ 1972 C20, 402/700R4 - My first classic truck, bought in September 2005. 85% transformed from "Farm" to "Cool" status! 1970 Dodge Challenger 440, 4sp (my other toy) 12.67 @ 117 MPH, with a pathetic 2.022 60' 2007 Dodge Charger SRT-8 2008 Cadillac CTS All-American garage, baby!

02-19-2009, 11:52 AM	#9
VetteVet Msgt USAF Ret Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Kalamazoo, Michigan Posts: 8,709	Re: Drum Brakes A couple of things. It appears that you have two primary shoes on the backing plate. The front shoe should be the one with less material on it and the rear should be the one with the most. Look at lordhelmet's picture and you'll see what I mean. If all four of your shoes are the same then it shouldn't matter. I hope you plan on running the emergency brake cause if you lose the hydraulic action you may need to stop and can't, then you'll wish you had them. __________________ VetteVet metallic green 67 stepside 74 corvette convertible 1965 Harley sportster 1995 Harley wide glide Growing old is hell, but it beats the alternative.

02-20-2009, 06:04 PM	#10
ulakovic22 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lantana, TX Posts: 419	Re: Drum Brakes Thanks for the pics guys that really helped. All four are the same thickness so I hope I'm ok there. I did notice that the black spring is binding and it's because I put the "thing" on upside down. My hook is in on the bottom and ya'lls is on the top. I'm gonna swap sides and hopefully that will fix it. Thanks for the pics.

02-20-2009, 06:17 PM	#12
68gmsee Active Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Centrally located between Houston, Austin and Waco. BCS area. Posts: 7,947	Re: Drum Brakes One more thing I noticed. The small piece that's called the shoe guide seems to be somewhat off center in your pic. Make sure it's all the way in and flush on the stude. FYI: Also, it's not the thickness of the shoe that VetteVet was referring to. It's the length of the material on the shoe. Usually there's two lengths a short and a long. Look at the pics on the examples. But, if the length is the same on all of them, then there's nothing to worry about -it's just that some manufacturers make them differently.



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