got a question about my 99 tahoe - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

MITCH1914 · 03-07-2003, 10:37 AM

can anyone tell me where my electric fuel pump is located on my 99 tahoe. it went out last knght and i could not figure out where it is.

Low68 · 03-07-2003, 12:11 PM

I think it might be in the tank? I am not sure. It seems to me that most of the time on these new cars that they put them in the gas tank. Any one know for sure?
Low68

68speedalert · 03-07-2003, 12:24 PM

that's correct. It's mounted in the tank. Virtually all domestic fuel injected gas engines have the pump mounted in the tank. It keeps the pumps cooler (the gas cools it) and is mounted with the fuel gauge float. Most late models you have tto replace the entire assembly when it's needed at a cost of $300 - $500 smackers.

Steve

MITCH1914 · 03-07-2003, 12:36 PM

if it is in the tank .is it a job than can be done at home? i like to try and fix my own problems if i can

another question. is it possible that there is a blown fuse that is keeping the pump from working. there is a big fuse in the fuse box under the hood that is labeled fule pump, how can you tell if it is blown? it looks like a big square piece of plastic.

sneakysnake · 03-07-2003, 01:33 PM

I had one go out on a 92 gmc p/u I bought a chilton manual for a wiring diagram pulled the fuse cover and with a meter checked all I could, then broke out the siphone hose and drained the tank
took the bolts loose on the straps unhooked the wires and hoses
and droped the tank, had to jack it up to get the tank out. use a brass or non sparking chisel spin the holding ring on the hose/sender and the whole thing pulls out

Crank · 03-07-2003, 03:09 PM

Yea, it's a long job for someone like me, only 15 and no experience, but you've probably got a lot more experience than me. So, just drop the tank. Unhook the fuel line and return line and the electrical connection. Then take a screwdriver or something and tap the ring around until it comes loose(you may want to clean that area, it can get a little dirty and drop crap in the tank.) then assemble the fuel pump, but it back in position, using the new O-ring, use the screwdriver to tighten the ring again, then reverse the previous steps. It may have some things in the way of dropping it, I've never done one on your application, I've done one on a 4 door Jimmy, it may take you some time, but drink a few beers and be calm about it, it'll all be alright.
Brandon

Crank · 03-07-2003, 03:11 PM

Hehe, I just noticed that SneakySnake said to use a non sparking chisel or something. Hahahahaha. We boyz 'round here ain't skeered of no little 'splosion. Come on now.
Brandon

Terry S · 03-07-2003, 10:24 PM

The big black fuse thing is the fuel pump relay. If you think that it might be bad, you can get a new one at oreilly or autozone for like 12 bucks. It's worth a shot, I guess, but more than likely, the pump is bad. They run about 200-300 bucks (ouch) plus the
oh-so-fun time of getting the tank apart.

My wife's went out at about 90,000 miles, and I know of another one that went bad at about the same mileage, so I'm guessing that this is a pretty common problem.

good luck!

mkmiller1 · 03-07-2003, 11:13 PM

This is a common problem with the GM vehicles. Just a tip for the future: If it goes out on you somewhere inconvenient(Walmart, grocery store, etc>) you can normally take your hand and beat on the bottom of the gas tank a couple of times and the pump will kick on.(leave the key on and you can hear when the pump kicks on). This will get you home or wherever you need to go, just don't kill it cause the trick may not work again.

Matthew

Andy4639 · 03-07-2003, 11:48 PM

I would take one of the other relays out and try it in the fuel pump relay position and see if it works, would save alot of time. Then you would know it was the pump for sure. I have a 93 suburban and it has 130,000 on it and I have the factory pump still. Knock on wood it will go out tomorrow.

Chevy Wrench · 03-08-2003, 12:03 AM

I do these all the time. Its how I make my house payments. LOL The relay right next to the f/p relay should be for the horn. It is the same type relay. Switch it and honk your horn. And beating on the tank will work sometimes. If you are going to try this at home without a lift, DRAIN THE TANK!!!! It will make the tank a lot easier to manuvre. And gas dosent taste very good, and its not nice to the eyes. Good luck.
John
By the way, how do you know the pump went out? What were the symtoms? Could be something unrelated? Just thinking with my fingers...

gangforward · 03-08-2003, 12:28 AM

Gm Fuel pumps are sensitive to dirty fuel filters - GM suggests you replace the fuel filter every 15,000 miles - I've always done mine at 10,000, and never had a problem with a GM fuel pump.

Try blowing through a straw that's plugged up and you can see why this will wear out a pump much faster. When I bought my 97 suburban, the first thing I replaced was the fuel filter.

MITCH1914 · 03-11-2003, 10:42 AM

first of all i went to a couple of repair shops to get a estimate and the cheepest one was 440. i figured i can do this myself. so i asked one of my hot rod engine builder buddies to help me. it took us abot 3 hours to do the job but i save alot of money.

68speedalert · 03-12-2003, 12:05 AM

congrats on the repair. Hopefully you did check for power and ground cause there's nothin' worse than spending 3 hours, putting gas back in the tank and turning the key and still nothing! Been there done that.

Good work,
Steve

Longhorn Man · 03-12-2003, 12:21 AM

Imagine when they give you the wrong pump....TWICE!
And in our S-10 Blazer, you have to reach up and around the tank to disconnect the lines...I was only able to drop it about 6 inches.

Project1970 · 03-12-2003, 01:05 AM

I've never had to do an electric fuel pump...and hopefully never will...

We've gotten EXTREMELY lucky on the '94 Z28. My dad and brother have combined for running it dry at least four, maybe five times...and those pumps are supposedly finicky enough to die if you do it once or twice. Plus, you're looking at dropping the rear axle to get the tank out (hey, good time to get that resealed and a set of 3.73's or 4.11's put in, hehe)...

*knocks on wood*

03-07-2003, 10:37 AM	#1
MITCH1914 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: indianapolis,indiana,usa Posts: 506	got a question about my 99 tahoe can anyone tell me where my electric fuel pump is located on my 99 tahoe. it went out last knght and i could not figure out where it is.

03-07-2003, 12:11 PM	#2
Low68 Registered User Join Date: May 2001 Location: Arizona Posts: 758	I think it might be in the tank? I am not sure. It seems to me that most of the time on these new cars that they put them in the gas tank. Any one know for sure? Low68 __________________ Build Thread

03-07-2003, 12:24 PM	#3
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	that's correct. It's mounted in the tank. Virtually all domestic fuel injected gas engines have the pump mounted in the tank. It keeps the pumps cooler (the gas cools it) and is mounted with the fuel gauge float. Most late models you have tto replace the entire assembly when it's needed at a cost of $300 - $500 smackers. Steve __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

03-07-2003, 10:24 PM	#8
Terry S Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Haysville, KS Posts: 118	The big black fuse thing is the fuel pump relay. If you think that it might be bad, you can get a new one at oreilly or autozone for like 12 bucks. It's worth a shot, I guess, but more than likely, the pump is bad. They run about 200-300 bucks (ouch) plus the oh-so-fun time of getting the tank apart. My wife's went out at about 90,000 miles, and I know of another one that went bad at about the same mileage, so I'm guessing that this is a pretty common problem. good luck! __________________ I can do all things thru Christ, but he evidently doesn't want me to beat that Camaro light to light....

03-07-2003, 11:13 PM	#9
mkmiller1 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2000 Location: Magnolia, Arkansas Posts: 1,091	This is a common problem with the GM vehicles. Just a tip for the future: If it goes out on you somewhere inconvenient(Walmart, grocery store, etc>) you can normally take your hand and beat on the bottom of the gas tank a couple of times and the pump will kick on.(leave the key on and you can hear when the pump kicks on). This will get you home or wherever you need to go, just don't kill it cause the trick may not work again. Matthew __________________ GOD is good...All the time! '71 swb custom10 barn find-68K original miles 72 K5 CST rust bucket, but runs and drives 84K miles

03-07-2003, 12:36 PM	#4
MITCH1914 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: indianapolis,indiana,usa Posts: 506	if it is in the tank .is it a job than can be done at home? i like to try and fix my own problems if i can another question. is it possible that there is a blown fuse that is keeping the pump from working. there is a big fuse in the fuse box under the hood that is labeled fule pump, how can you tell if it is blown? it looks like a big square piece of plastic.

03-07-2003, 01:33 PM	#5
sneakysnake It's a catastrophic success. Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Oklahoma Posts: 2,077	I had one go out on a 92 gmc p/u I bought a chilton manual for a wiring diagram pulled the fuse cover and with a meter checked all I could, then broke out the siphone hose and drained the tank took the bolts loose on the straps unhooked the wires and hoses and droped the tank, had to jack it up to get the tank out. use a brass or non sparking chisel spin the holding ring on the hose/sender and the whole thing pulls out

03-07-2003, 03:09 PM	#6
Crank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Crittenden, KY Posts: 1,965	Yea, it's a long job for someone like me, only 15 and no experience, but you've probably got a lot more experience than me. So, just drop the tank. Unhook the fuel line and return line and the electrical connection. Then take a screwdriver or something and tap the ring around until it comes loose(you may want to clean that area, it can get a little dirty and drop crap in the tank.) then assemble the fuel pump, but it back in position, using the new O-ring, use the screwdriver to tighten the ring again, then reverse the previous steps. It may have some things in the way of dropping it, I've never done one on your application, I've done one on a 4 door Jimmy, it may take you some time, but drink a few beers and be calm about it, it'll all be alright. Brandon

03-07-2003, 03:11 PM	#7
Crank Registered User Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Crittenden, KY Posts: 1,965	Hehe, I just noticed that SneakySnake said to use a non sparking chisel or something. Hahahahaha. We boyz 'round here ain't skeered of no little 'splosion. Come on now. Brandon

03-07-2003, 11:48 PM	#10
Andy4639 Old member Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S. Posts: 19,945	Fuel relay I would take one of the other relays out and try it in the fuel pump relay position and see if it works, would save alot of time. Then you would know it was the pump for sure. I have a 93 suburban and it has 130,000 on it and I have the factory pump still. Knock on wood it will go out tomorrow. __________________ 1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs.

03-08-2003, 12:03 AM	#11
Chevy Wrench former desert rat Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: salt lake city, utah Home of the 3 M's Mormons, methlabs and minivans Posts: 320	I do these all the time. Its how I make my house payments. LOL The relay right next to the f/p relay should be for the horn. It is the same type relay. Switch it and honk your horn. And beating on the tank will work sometimes. If you are going to try this at home without a lift, DRAIN THE TANK!!!! It will make the tank a lot easier to manuvre. And gas dosent taste very good, and its not nice to the eyes. Good luck. John By the way, how do you know the pump went out? What were the symtoms? Could be something unrelated? Just thinking with my fingers... __________________ 94 Chevy Silverado Ext cab 4/6 drop w/ 18's and 2500watt system (work truck). 67 Chevy swb under const. frame off custom, 20's, bagged and a large rat under the hood,and a 1940 Chevy truck under const. Last edited by Chevy Wrench; 03-08-2003 at 12:07 AM.

03-08-2003, 12:28 AM	#12
gangforward Hootis is as Hootis does... Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Southern Georgia Posts: 500	Gm Fuel pumps are sensitive to dirty fuel filters - GM suggests you replace the fuel filter every 15,000 miles - I've always done mine at 10,000, and never had a problem with a GM fuel pump. Try blowing through a straw that's plugged up and you can see why this will wear out a pump much faster. When I bought my 97 suburban, the first thing I replaced was the fuel filter. __________________ 67 C10 LWB Fleet, 383, TH400, PS, 4BL-Holley, Headers & 3" Exhaust, 3" drop front, 4" rear springs, ECI shock relocate, Panhard Bar kit, wheels & tires 1995 Z28 Convertible - Borla, K&N, Lingenfelter Motor, C6 Wheels & Tires 1990 2500 4x4 Suburban 3" Catbac System, K&N, 2" Lift, Wheels, Tires

03-11-2003, 10:42 AM	#13
MITCH1914 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: indianapolis,indiana,usa Posts: 506	THANKS TO ALL FOR YOUR INPUT first of all i went to a couple of repair shops to get a estimate and the cheepest one was 440. i figured i can do this myself. so i asked one of my hot rod engine builder buddies to help me. it took us abot 3 hours to do the job but i save alot of money.

03-12-2003, 12:05 AM	#14
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	congrats on the repair. Hopefully you did check for power and ground cause there's nothin' worse than spending 3 hours, putting gas back in the tank and turning the key and still nothing! Been there done that. Good work, Steve __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

03-12-2003, 12:21 AM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Imagine when they give you the wrong pump....TWICE! And in our S-10 Blazer, you have to reach up and around the tank to disconnect the lines...I was only able to drop it about 6 inches.



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03-12-2003, 01:05 AM	#16
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I've never had to do an electric fuel pump...and hopefully never will... We've gotten EXTREMELY lucky on the '94 Z28. My dad and brother have combined for running it dry at least four, maybe five times...and those pumps are supposedly finicky enough to die if you do it once or twice. Plus, you're looking at dropping the rear axle to get the tank out (hey, good time to get that resealed and a set of 3.73's or 4.11's put in, hehe)... knocks on wood __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

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