Basic questions about a barn find...

[MrTucker]

First off - My name is Tucker, and I'm a lurker. I've been cruising the 67-72 boards for a while. I drove a '69 GMC lwb when I was 16 and have missed that thing ever since my dad sent it to the junkyard (still haven't forgiven him, ). I know nothing about 47-54's

Anyways...

I've come across a killer deal (free!) on a 53 GMC that's been sitting in a barn for about 18 years, but out of the barn for the last 4. It's been described as being in "good condition with maybe a few dings and scratches here and there". It was also dubbed with the classic "it ran well when parked" line.

My question isn't "can it be saved" - they all can be saved.

My question is what do you think it would take to get the original motor/trans running again? All I know is that it's equipped with an I6, and a hydromatic auto trans. Full motor and trans rebuild?? It's been in Northern Montana, so its been subjected to some pretty extreme cold.

I've also heard that rebuilding the original I6 and Hydromatic is crazy expensive - is this true??

Ultimately I see an MII IFS, 350/700R4, 9" rear end and some 18/20's in this trucks future - but I'm just curious what it would take to get the original equipment running...

[drummin89]

First I would see if the motor is free, can you spin it by hand (don't try turning it over with the starter first). If not remove the spark plugs and put some oil in to free the rings (someone will chime in with their choice of oil to do this, luckily I didn't have to). Once you get it free, I would drain the oil and put some fresh in, probably change the filter. The filters on these, if it is the original engine, were a bypass design, meaning that the oil didn't pass through the filter before going to the engine, but just a little got pulled away and filtered and dump back into the pan, so a filter change probably isn't that important). It might be good (maybe even required) to drop the pan and clean it if it was sitting all those years with oil in it, as its probably sludge now.

Next id remove the cap on the distributor and take a piece of sand paper and run it in between the points. Wouldn't hurt to change the spark plus either if you plan to run the engine a bit before pulling it. A coolant, or at least water change might be a good idea, check all the hoses as well.

For the trans, as I never dealt with one of those before, I would think a fluid change would be good after sitting for so long.

The just throw a fresh battery in and see what happens.
*****A warning on the battery, these trucks were 6volt (at least chevy, gmc had their own changes) and if you throw a 12volt battery in, don't turn on any accessories or lights if you plan to keep or sell them later. Also if you plan to keep or sell the stock gauges, unhook them, especially the fuel gauge. The 12 volt will be alright for the starter, but after a while the starter solenoid and the ignition coil will fail, but there are 12 volt replacements.

If I missed anything or made a mistake, someone will be by to correct or add what they have to say.

Good luck and when you get a chance and have a digital camera handy, take and post some pictures.

[Tsunami]

I have a 1954 Chevy that had a 235 c.i. I6 that was all original and I went through this process. It's doable to get the engine running, it just takes time. Get a plan together and step through it to reduce the gottchas. Mine had the 3 on the tree, torque tube drive shaft and at 50 MPH the engine was screaming. It was made for hauling. The other pain in the butt was the shifter, keep a big, long screw drive with you. Sometimes the shift linkage gets stuck and the only way to free it up was to pry it with the screw driver. Don't get me wrong, I drove the truck bone stock for years be for I made a street rod out of it and haven't looked back. Good luck

[MrTucker]

Thanks drummin89!

That's the basic process I was thinking needed to be done. This truck will be a HUGE learning experience. I've never done anything to a truck/car, other than basic maintenance and minor stuff like valve cover gaskets, starter/alt replacements and stuff like that.

Originally Posted by drummin89

...take and post some pictures.

Oh I will! the bummer is that I can't get the truck until August

The way I see is that this thing WILL get a new IFS, a v8/700R4 swap, and a new rear end and suspension - so what's the harm in trying to get the stock engine/tranny running, right?? I just worry the bearings and rings and such are so old and rotted that trying to start the motor will destroy it...

It's a 100% stock truck that's been in the family since new, so making a hot rod out of it will make a lot of people smile - and it will teach me a ton considering I will be doing as much of the work as I can myself!

[OrrieG]

Before you drive it pull the drums and check the brakes to make sure the wheel cylinders are not rotted out or any mechanical parts rusted. Also check the master cylinder. After the maiden replace the old brake fluid.

I would also drain the old gas (if there is any left) and flush the tank (in place) and fuel line, replace any fuel filter and add a filter before the fuel pump to keep any crud out of the pump and carb. You might also need a carb kit if the seats a gummed up or accelerator pump dried out so badly it won't work.

I grew up bring old 216 and 235s back to life, lots just needed a squirt of gas and a few turns to start. Hopefully the body is just dings and scratches and not much rust... Good luck, post some pics..

[solidaxel]

Like Orrie G says MAKE sure it will stop before you start to drive it!!!

[MrTucker]

nah...I figured I'd get it up to highway speed, then check the brakes

[bensimmons_05]

Pictures!!!!!!