73-87 Power booster Mod to fit our trucks ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72MARIO · 03-14-2003, 12:01 AM

I don' have a original booter for a C10 and I don't like the way that the original one looks. So do you see any reason I could'nt use a newer one? I may have to make a longer push rod and drill/ fill some holes but no biggie. I am in the paint and body work process now so I can weld and drill all I want.

Thanks Mario

*Piston* · 03-14-2003, 12:19 AM

I've got one from a newer truck (80's) and have been fitting it to the cab im working on. It's no big deal from what I can see. The bracket for the booster needs 2 additional holes drilled and I plan on cutting off the top portion of the bracket (the old 2 holes that aren't used). Then you'll need to make a longer push rod (about 3 inches longer I'm guessing).

barn9 · 03-14-2003, 12:30 AM

You guys might try a search, I seem to remember seeing some good info concerning this mod in the past. This is one of those topics that we need a good, informative, article on, and then have it included in the FAQ section.

casey · 03-14-2003, 12:42 AM

when you change booster and master cylinder what do you do with the purporsioning valve, did I spell that right

Brad · 03-14-2003, 03:14 AM

Okay, it's been awhile since I had a '77 booster on mine, but I remember that I used a coupler nut to lengthen the rod and I had to drill 2 extra holes where it mounted to the firewall.

dmnall · 03-14-2003, 04:34 AM

or you can always do the next best thing which I will be doing, just take the brake pedal off of the 73 - UP truck and remove the old one from our trucks (67 - 72) and just put the proportioning valve in the same spot as the 73 - UP... I plan on going this route since I am going to be swapping front Suspension from my 74 C10 to my 68 (so I can get the newer motor mounts and disc front setup), and I am just going to use the newer brake booster and master cyl.. other then that should not be too tough...

72MARIO · 03-14-2003, 08:54 AM

I plan on buying a Bare or Wildwood ADJ porp valve they look kinda trick I think. The old ones look GooFy. So you don't think there will be any problems Eh ?

03-14-2003, 12:01 AM	#1
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	73-87 Power booster Mod to fit our trucks ? I don' have a original booter for a C10 and I don't like the way that the original one looks. So do you see any reason I could'nt use a newer one? I may have to make a longer push rod and drill/ fill some holes but no biggie. I am in the paint and body work process now so I can weld and drill all I want. Thanks Mario __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-14-2003, 12:30 AM	#3
barn9 Half a bubble off! Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Winfield, Ks, USA Posts: 5,588	You guys might try a search, I seem to remember seeing some good info concerning this mod in the past. This is one of those topics that we need a good, informative, article on, and then have it included in the FAQ section. __________________ Just call me LB. '71 Cheyenne, 402BB, hauls blondes, brunettes, or redheads.

03-14-2003, 03:14 AM	#5
Brad Out of the carpool lane. Join Date: Jan 2000 Location: Clark Co, WA Posts: 5,673	Okay, it's been awhile since I had a '77 booster on mine, but I remember that I used a coupler nut to lengthen the rod and I had to drill 2 extra holes where it mounted to the firewall. __________________ 1968 C-10 SWB, 5.7 Vortec/700R4/3.73 posi, Torch Red 1968 Camaro, 250/Powerglide, all original (No, I'm not gonna drop a 350 in it!...Jeez!) 2000 Honda VFR in the faster yellow! 2008 Husqvarna TE-610 1967 C-10 SWB 'Six Appeal'-Gone but not forgotten...

03-14-2003, 04:34 AM	#6
dmnall Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: Goleta, CA Posts: 505	or you can always do the next best thing which I will be doing, just take the brake pedal off of the 73 - UP truck and remove the old one from our trucks (67 - 72) and just put the proportioning valve in the same spot as the 73 - UP... I plan on going this route since I am going to be swapping front Suspension from my 74 C10 to my 68 (so I can get the newer motor mounts and disc front setup), and I am just going to use the newer brake booster and master cyl.. other then that should not be too tough... __________________ 1968 C10 Truck LWB Fleetside 1968 C10 Truck SWB Stepside 1994 K2500 Ext Cab Fleetside 2008 Honda Civic Si lease

03-14-2003, 08:54 AM	#7
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	I plan on buying a Bare or Wildwood ADJ porp valve they look kinda trick I think. The old ones look GooFy. So you don't think there will be any problems Eh ? __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-14-2003, 12:19 AM	#2
Piston Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 2,301	I've got one from a newer truck (80's) and have been fitting it to the cab im working on. It's no big deal from what I can see. The bracket for the booster needs 2 additional holes drilled and I plan on cutting off the top portion of the bracket (the old 2 holes that aren't used). Then you'll need to make a longer push rod (about 3 inches longer I'm guessing).

03-14-2003, 12:42 AM	#4
casey Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Kelowna B.C. Canada Posts: 2,048	when you change booster and master cylinder what do you do with the purporsioning valve, did I spell that right



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