Heater control question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Tycoon4u · 03-22-2009, 12:18 PM

I rebuilt my heater controls and the one way rivets that attach the faceplate to the control assembly don't have enough meat left to hold the faceplate on. Does anybody know a fix for this without drilling holes through the faceplate?

71 super · 03-22-2009, 02:18 PM

I have not used this method yet as both f my current trucks are a/c trucks, but have seen the screws through the face plate and know how awful it looks. My thoughts are this- drill the stock remains of rivets out and use a countersunk screw from the front side- being sure to sink the front deep enough to make screw heads flush with the face of the controler. After doing so, use the new face plate sticker to cover the screw heads and you have a new looking control. Seems to me that this will work, but again I have not tried it yet. Harold

Tycoon4u · 03-22-2009, 03:31 PM

Thanks but I don't think the metal is thick enough and with non a/c there isn't a sticker that goes there. Anybody got any other ideas?

Sammy · 03-22-2009, 04:49 PM

Yeah take a trip come visit. Might sell you a nice one. I have two. Or do a horse trade for something I need.

**LockDoc** · 03-22-2009, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tycoon4u

Thanks but I don't think the metal is thick enough and with non a/c there isn't a sticker that goes there. Anybody got any other ideas?

Yes, the metal is thick enough and there is a sticker you can buy to go over the face of some of the heater controls, depending on the year. That is the way I fixed one of mine

LockDoc

**fine69** · 03-22-2009, 08:18 PM

Check out the site Vendors.

Most of the sell rebuild kits for the heater controls.

With new steel levers instead of the original pot metal ones.

Kit comes with new face for controls.

**oldgold70c10** · 03-22-2009, 08:27 PM

You could drill and tap for #6-32 screws. That is what I did on mine. I used short screws so they don't come out the front.

Tycoon4u · 03-23-2009, 05:33 PM

Thanks guys I think I can git r done now.

**Roland** · 03-23-2009, 05:56 PM

Just a wild thought but would an epoxy such as JB Weld work?

71 super · 03-23-2009, 09:02 PM

Epoxy and jb weld will hold for a short time, but will not last.

red71c10 · 03-25-2009, 02:40 AM

Do you have the black heater controls, or the all chrome/silver version. Most 67/68's have the black controls, but I've seen at least two '68's that had the later version.

chris71 · 03-25-2009, 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roland

Just a wild thought but would an epoxy such as JB Weld work?

i used jb weld and it has held up great, i got the metal from the back "cage really clean as with what was left of the rivet, sanded them with some heavy grit sandpaper, then cleaned with lacquer thinner, use heavy grit so that the jb weld will have something to bite onto. then put a blob of JB on the rivet/surrounding area and let dry, 2 of my rivets were trash, so i did this to 2 of the 4 it seemed to have come out really well, i have been using the heater controls all winter and no problems at all

oldblue1968chevy · 03-25-2009, 10:18 AM

i'll get a pic up later of wat i did to mine...did some nice lil..alen head bolts and screws from home depot looks good acutally get pics later

Tx Firefighter · 03-25-2009, 01:54 PM

There's plenty of meat there for countersinking. I drill the holes to 1/4 inch and countersink them to allow a countersunk phillips bolt to set flush with the surface. Then, apply the new sticker and it looks as good as new and will last much longer than original ever would.

Here is the kit that everyone uses. It comes with new face decals and levers and knobs.

http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...oducts_id=3776

03-22-2009, 12:18 PM	#1
Tycoon4u Tooloose Join Date: May 2005 Location: Jonesboro, IL Posts: 280	Heater control question I rebuilt my heater controls and the one way rivets that attach the faceplate to the control assembly don't have enough meat left to hold the faceplate on. Does anybody know a fix for this without drilling holes through the faceplate? __________________ A legend in my own mind!!! website: http://www.persmedequip.com/ '68 c10 (current project) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=cherry+bomb '04 silverado (better halfs) '07 wildcat 27rlwb(for sale) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...llinois&cat=17

03-22-2009, 02:18 PM	#2
71 super Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Canton North carolina Posts: 3,080	Re: Heater control question I have not used this method yet as both f my current trucks are a/c trucks, but have seen the screws through the face plate and know how awful it looks. My thoughts are this- drill the stock remains of rivets out and use a countersunk screw from the front side- being sure to sink the front deep enough to make screw heads flush with the face of the controler. After doing so, use the new face plate sticker to cover the screw heads and you have a new looking control. Seems to me that this will work, but again I have not tried it yet. Harold __________________ 67 blue step side- bb 68 gold and white swb cst anniversary 68 custom swb hot rod Ls swap 69 swb cst 6 cylinder/ overdrive 69 black/black cst bb swb 70 orange and white cst Canada built truck swb bb 71 black and white super swb bb 71 red and white super swb 72 green and white super swb 4x4 62 nova wagon 400 series Ls swapped 68 Camaro 327/4 speed- 1 owner, original paint 66 Volkswagen bettle 69 auto stick Volkswagen Beetle

03-22-2009, 03:31 PM	#3
Tycoon4u Tooloose Join Date: May 2005 Location: Jonesboro, IL Posts: 280	Re: Heater control question Thanks but I don't think the metal is thick enough and with non a/c there isn't a sticker that goes there. Anybody got any other ideas? __________________ A legend in my own mind!!! website: http://www.persmedequip.com/ '68 c10 (current project) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=cherry+bomb '04 silverado (better halfs) '07 wildcat 27rlwb(for sale) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...llinois&cat=17

03-22-2009, 04:49 PM	#4
Sammy Registered User Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Bonne Terre, Mo Posts: 3,005	Re: Heater control question Yeah take a trip come visit. Might sell you a nice one. I have two. Or do a horse trade for something I need. __________________ '69 Chevy Long Fleet & '71 GMC Short Step & Project "ODD BALL" "You can wash a pig, soak it in most expensive perfume. In the end it is still just a pig." ODD BALL build thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=478629"

03-22-2009, 08:27 PM	#7
oldgold70c10 Who's got steelies? Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Morrison, Oklahoma Posts: 1,025	Re: Heater control question You could drill and tap for #6-32 screws. That is what I did on mine. I used short screws so they don't come out the front. __________________ 1969 C10 LWB W/ 250 I6 & 3spd 1970 C10 with '67 small window cab, 68 front end, blue; 305/TH350, 3.08 limited slip rear end, manual brakes, power steering; & 4-wheel drums-My daily driver. 1975 Chevelle Malibu Classic Coupe 350/th350 mint green 1970 C20 Suburban 350/700R4 4.10 gearing green & white 1978 Big 10 Silverado 350/th350, working ac, 2 tone blue-My summer daily driver 1983 GMC 1500 Sierra 305/SM465 2.73 rear end How to add a trip odometer to your 67-72 stock speedometer How to rebuild your Q-Jet My Truck Page My Youtube Channel

03-22-2009, 08:18 PM	#6
fine69 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Urbana,Ohio,USA Posts: 4,618	Re: Heater control question Check out the site Vendors. Most of the sell rebuild kits for the heater controls. With new steel levers instead of the original pot metal ones. Kit comes with new face for controls. __________________ 2008 Chevy HHR 1/2 panel. 1949 Chevy Panel truck(just sittin, waiting) Board member #6

03-23-2009, 05:33 PM	#8
Tycoon4u Tooloose Join Date: May 2005 Location: Jonesboro, IL Posts: 280	Re: Heater control question Thanks guys I think I can git r done now. __________________ A legend in my own mind!!! website: http://www.persmedequip.com/ '68 c10 (current project) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ht=cherry+bomb '04 silverado (better halfs) '07 wildcat 27rlwb(for sale) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/c...llinois&cat=17

03-23-2009, 05:56 PM	#9
Roland Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Brandon, MS Posts: 134	Re: Heater control question Just a wild thought but would an epoxy such as JB Weld work?

03-23-2009, 09:02 PM	#10
71 super Registered User Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Canton North carolina Posts: 3,080	Re: Heater control question Epoxy and jb weld will hold for a short time, but will not last. __________________ 67 blue step side- bb 68 gold and white swb cst anniversary 68 custom swb hot rod Ls swap 69 swb cst 6 cylinder/ overdrive 69 black/black cst bb swb 70 orange and white cst Canada built truck swb bb 71 black and white super swb bb 71 red and white super swb 72 green and white super swb 4x4 62 nova wagon 400 series Ls swapped 68 Camaro 327/4 speed- 1 owner, original paint 66 Volkswagen bettle 69 auto stick Volkswagen Beetle

03-25-2009, 02:40 AM	#11
red71c10 The Red Menace Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Roseburg, OR Posts: 577	Re: Heater control question Do you have the black heater controls, or the all chrome/silver version. Most 67/68's have the black controls, but I've seen at least two '68's that had the later version.

03-25-2009, 10:18 AM	#13
oldblue1968chevy Grandpa in the rustmobile... Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Spokane WA/Viola TN Posts: 11,422	Re: Heater control question i'll get a pic up later of wat i did to mine...did some nice lil..alen head bolts and screws from home depot looks good acutally get pics later __________________ John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4

03-25-2009, 01:54 PM	#14
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Re: Heater control question There's plenty of meat there for countersinking. I drill the holes to 1/4 inch and countersink them to allow a countersunk phillips bolt to set flush with the surface. Then, apply the new sticker and it looks as good as new and will last much longer than original ever would. Here is the kit that everyone uses. It comes with new face decals and levers and knobs. http://www.oldairproducts.com/catalo...oducts_id=3776 __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin Last edited by Tx Firefighter; 03-25-2009 at 01:58 PM.



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