Idiots guide to buying a '69-'72.

[Mike Culpepper]

Maybe going to look at a truck northwest of Dallas and have a couple of questions about looking for rust/rot.
I know rockers and cab corners are a prime area for rust, but do ya'll have any hints or tips for finding it here or elsewhere? For example, I seem to remember a post some time ago, where someone found some rust along a drip edge or something, the pic didn't look too bad but several members saw this as a BAD omen. I guess what I'm looking for is something like a brief "idiots guide to buying a '69-'72 Chevy(what to look for/what to avoid)". I've learned alot just reading the posts here, but you can never learn enough.
BTW , I'm looking for a truck that I don't have to put alot of work into from the get go, simply coz I don't have the time to do so.
Mike

[ChevLoRay]

Someone's project truck may offer you the best deal, in that they have lost interest, or some other such event.

Primer paint can be good, or bad. It can hide damage that has not been properly repaired, or it could be that it is truly ready for paint.

Get the best body you can possibly buy, with mechanicals taking the back seat, as in no engine, etc. If it isn't a "roller", you have the problem of getting it where it needs to be.

Short wheelbase trucks are thought to be more desirable. Fleetside seems to have the preference over step sides.
More options is better. Check the glove box door....if the label is still attached and readable, you'll have a good idea of what the truck had when new.

V-8's are preferred over 6's. Big block trucks (originally equipped) will bring a premium, over small blocks.

CST's (Custom Sport Truck Option) brings the most amenities, and has a premium price.

You can buy almost any part for the 67-72's, except the basic cab and long bed sides.

Besides the rust you mentioned on cab corners and rockers, check beneath the inside vent flaps, over/under the windshield and rear window; check the lower part of the doors, inner and outer. Check behind the tires, front and rear. Inner fenders are prone to rust, particularly underneath the battery box. Look at the radiator support....especially around the battery box. Look at the trailing arms of the rear suspension....mud, dirt, salt accumulations cause them to rust and become de-laminated (they're composed of two pieces of metal). Look underneath the floor covering, for perforated floor pans. Check the cab mounting, too. They're as prone to rust as anything on the truck.

Sometimes new paintjobs are done without proper prep, and can cause the price to be higher, but will quickly lose their luster and start flaking off.

Red, Black and White, along with Silver, are the most popular colors. Some colors evoke strong emotions and may lead to a purchase, when defects that should have been noted are ignored.

Dark colors make/help poor bodywork become more evident. White paint jobs make them the most difficult to find.

Look at the wear pattern on the tires. If the truck will run, and can be driven, have someone follow you to check for tramping (failure of the rear of the vehicle to correctly follow the front)....may indicate a bent/tweaked frame.

Assuming the engine runs and the transmission works, check for obvious oil leaks, transmission fluld leaks, etc. Smell the oil; do you notice an odor of gasoline? It could be leaking past the rings and contaminating the oil....which could lead to bearing damage. Smell the transmission fluid....does it smell burnt, or look dark? It should be a nice clear red.

This is in no way an all-inclusive list of things to look for. If you truly are a novice, take someone that you TRUST to be your advisor and/or to be the disinterested third party.


Good luck.

[Mike Culpepper]

Thanks for the info, concise.
I feel pretty comfortable with the drivetrain type stuff, weak on the A/C and suspension stuff, and wasn't sure where the major body problems were typically on these trucks.
Even so, a disintrested party is a good idea.
Once again very good info for us rookie '69-72 truck hunters.
Mike

[Southpa]

I'd like to add a few areas to look at, namely, the places I should have checked before buying MY truck. Check the bolt channels that hold the rear wheel well tubs to the bedsides. And have a close look at the brackets that hold the front crossmember to the frame.

This might seem minor but if you plan to spend a lot of money it can be important. Some folks might "pre-warm' a vehicle before seeing prospective buyers. That way when they fire it up for you it idles smooth etc. when otherwise it might be a hard starter and need a little coaxing before getting warm. Like I said, just a minor thing but you don't want to have to do a tune-up etc. after spending a wad of cash. Just feel the hood for warmth. Also, check for puffs of blue smoke on startup, that means the engine needs valve seals replaced. Its very common and should be done at least every 5 years.

[casey]

Just my experience when I bought mine, The back corner posts were it meets the bed floor on the bedsides was weak, and the chauking in the roof drip rail was dried up and crack, so water had been leaking into the roof, and caused rust around the windsheild and door seals, thats my 2 cents