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#1 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,051
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Re: Cracked Frame & Crossover Steering
The studs on the steering arms snap off because the nuts will slowly back off over time. Got to lock tight them and keep them torqued down.
Last edited by FormerMember; 04-02-2009 at 02:58 PM. |
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#2 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Modesto, CA
Posts: 1,842
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Re: Cracked Frame & Crossover Steering
Quote:
Not sure how to do a crossover without a steering arm added. I think I remember a post were someone had a drag link that looeked like this ~ to reach the lower knuckel the drag link had plate gussets welded to it were the bends were. This was over on Pirate and all the jerks over there SLAMED this guys desgin and said it would fail...grain of salt with thoes guys...there just out to piss in everyones wheaties anyway. I ended up buying WFO HighSteer arms, custom built for me: ![]() With my low lift and not much room for highsteer WFO tried 3 different combos to make it work and this is the final solution: ![]() The pitman arm is from a fullsize Jeep Wagoneer drilled out for bigger TRE. ![]() Instead of the draglink connecting to a second hole on the steering arm mine tapps into the tirod end. So far so good, works very smooth. I have less than 10hrs wheelin time on this setup over the last year so everything is still fresh..time will tell ![]() ![]() If you buy steering arms get the type that eliminates the KingPin Spring. ![]() See mine, nice and flat on top were the zerk fitting is. The newer ones have a set screw there to adjust the load onto the cone, mine uses shims to increase/decrease the load/stiffness.. anyway... ![]()
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1972 K5 MPFI454/Sm465/Np205/D60/14FFd/Re-Centerd H1s w/Swamper Iroks ![]() |
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