Power window Motor - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Curly86 · 01-13-2008, 12:23 PM

My power window motor on the drivers door has quit how much trouble is it to change out the motors?I want to change out both motors while I'm at it.

BowTieOgre · 01-13-2008, 01:05 PM

I replaced the drivers side on my '90 burb and the process itself was pretty straightforward but it still took me over an hour because my fat arm wouldnt fit in the door too well...dang sheetmetal is sharp.

I took the armrest, handle bezel and door lock pull off before removing the door panel itself. If i remember correctly I also unbolted the door handle and left it hanging there and removed the bar covering the door opening. After that I unscrewed the regulator, unplugged the motor (use tape or something to secure the wiring where you can reach it or it will fall into the bottom of the door...thats no fun) and worked the entire assembly out of the opening in the door. Drill out the rivets on the old one, screw in the new one and reverse the process. OH, if youre feeling up to it plug the motor in and make sure it works before you attach it to the regulator and put it back in...dont ask.

I ordered my motors off of Ebay for like $10 or so each.

Curly86 · 01-13-2008, 01:25 PM

Ok Tks for the info.

shadetree · 01-13-2008, 04:37 PM

Usually, a drivers side motor will go out before the other motors are even broken in. I wouldn't replace the other unless it's really showing signs of wear.

**lolife99** · 01-13-2008, 05:35 PM

Check out this tech article over at www.73-87.com. Here's the link.http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm It made my last motor swap easy.

**old Rusty C10** · 01-13-2008, 06:16 PM

i have done it a couple of times and its real simple

Curly86 · 01-13-2008, 07:09 PM

It seems like a fairly simple job will tackle it soon.

*78 Chevyrado* · 01-16-2008, 02:28 PM

Get help putting the window back in the door, unless you have 4 hands... haha that's the only thing that was hard for me.

**lolife99** · 01-16-2008, 03:57 PM

I never removed the window from the door. I just duct taped it from one side of the glass- up and over the door frame. Then removed the regulator and window motor out from underneath it. Works like a charm. If your not sure about the duct tape,... use one of those ratcheting grip type clamps. (with the rubber padded grippers)

**N2TRUX** · 01-16-2008, 04:01 PM

I have had more fun washing my cat, and got less scratches in the process. The jobs not that hard, but plan on bleeding a little...ok, a LOT.

piecesparts · 01-16-2008, 04:50 PM

I took some of the soft metal Pipe hanger material (that you can buy at any hardware store in rolls) and made a hook out of the metal. I then hooked it under the window and then shot a sheetmetal screw through it at the top of the door. The hole will be covered by the interior trim, so it does not matter where. This will hold up the window and there is no fear of dropping.

You disconnect the screws that hold the regulator assembly and then work th ewhole assembly out through the bottom hole in the door.

After the assembly is on the bench (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT) drill a 1/4" hole through the regulator gear and the frame of the mounting bracket. Now put a bolt into the hole and lock the mechanism up by tightening a nut onto the bolt. Now the motor can be removed without he spring kicking the mechanism apart. Mount the new motor and remove the bolt and re-install. Grease EVERYTHING---if it looks like it is going to slide, rotate, or move GREASE IT.

Damien · 01-18-2008, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lolife99

I never removed the window from the door. I just duct taped it from one side of the glass- up and over the door frame. Then removed the regulator and window motor out from underneath it. Works like a charm. If your not sure about the duct tape,... use one of those ratcheting grip type clamps. (with the rubber padded grippers)

I used 2 inch masking tape. The duct tape will leave glue on everything or pull the paint off.

Curly86 · 01-21-2008, 12:01 AM

Ok Tks

mckpaul · 01-24-2008, 11:25 PM

Here's an easy fix..
http://jkgraphics.com/Eagle/images/Power_Windows.wmv

streetstar · 01-25-2008, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mckpaul

Here's an easy fix..
http://jkgraphics.com/Eagle/images/Power_Windows.wmv

I love that -- some good pointers there

James McClure · 01-26-2008, 09:34 PM

Just a quick note to Curly. If your truck is a real high miler or was used for some kind of delivery service do a quick electrical check to make sure you actually have power and ground inside the door. Sometimes from the constant open\close of drivers door the wires in the body to door harnace boot break off. This is a common problem through the GM line, but not limited to GM cars and trucks. jim

SilveradoDude · 03-29-2009, 04:40 PM

Hate to resurrect this post but....

My drv side motor finally went and I popped the door panel off to prepare for a replacement motor. To my surprise the size of the door openings to access the motor and regulator are painfully small (the duct tape needs to around those sharp openings to protect your arms more than keeping the window from falling).

Ok, I had to take the motor off BEFORE removing the regulator assembly (and before, obviously, putting the regulator into the vise. Am I now screwed? How do I get the motor back on?

piecesparts · 03-29-2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

Hate to resurrect this post but....

My drv side motor finally went and I popped the door panel off to prepare for a replacement motor. To my surprise the size of the door openings to access the motor and regulator are painfully small (the duct tape needs to around those sharp openings to protect your arms more than keeping the window from falling).

Ok, I had to take the motor off BEFORE removing the regulator assembly (and before, obviously, putting the regulator into the vise. Am I now screwed? How do I get the motor back on?

Take the bolts out of the motor regulator mountings to the door, unplug the motor and zig-zag the rollers out of the window as you pull it up. Once it is in the up position use something to hold it in place. I use the "Plumbers' hanger metal from a hardware store. I bend a hook on onend and slide it down from the top, then I fold it over the top of the door's inner sheet metal and set it with a metal screw.

The regulator and motor will slide out of the hole at the bottom and then it can be changed out.

IMPORTANT CAUTION: Drill a hole through the regulator bracket and the toothed gear before you try to take it apart. Put a 1/4" bolt in that hole and then put a nut on it. This will keep the spring from snapping you to a spot and make your motor change out easier.

SilveradoDude · 03-31-2009, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by piecesparts

IMPORTANT CAUTION: Drill a hole through the regulator bracket and the toothed gear before you try to take it apart. Put a 1/4" bolt in that hole and then put a nut on it. This will keep the spring from snapping you to a spot and make your motor change out easier.

Ok, I didn't do that but I did bolt the motor to the regulator and get everything in the door and slid the regulator onto the window. Now I just need to get the mounting bolts up to the mounting locations (they are now about 4 inches lower). Should I just connect the motor and let it wind it's way up the regulator or would that create problems?

piecesparts · 03-31-2009, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SilveradoDude

Ok, I didn't do that but I did bolt the motor to the regulator and get everything in the door and slid the regulator onto the window. Now I just need to get the mounting bolts up to the mounting locations (they are now about 4 inches lower). Should I just connect the motor and let it wind it's way up the regulator or would that create problems?

Not a bad idea, it has worked for me. Keep the fingers out of the way.

01-13-2008, 12:23 PM	#1
Curly86 You want it there when??? Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lewisburg Ky Posts: 393	Power window Motor My power window motor on the drivers door has quit how much trouble is it to change out the motors?I want to change out both motors while I'm at it. __________________ 1986 Silverado Flatbed 400 SB with 350 turbo 1997 Ford Explorer with 302 mydrive to work ride 1978 Gmc Midas RV 21ft with 46,000 actual miles 2003 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 327 and Tweety Bird Yellow Big Sandy Survivor 09 Trucks in the Blue Grass Survivor 09 TNCTC Streetcruzin

01-13-2008, 01:05 PM	#2
BowTieOgre Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Pensacola, FL Posts: 1,461	Re: Power window Motor I replaced the drivers side on my '90 burb and the process itself was pretty straightforward but it still took me over an hour because my fat arm wouldnt fit in the door too well...dang sheetmetal is sharp. I took the armrest, handle bezel and door lock pull off before removing the door panel itself. If i remember correctly I also unbolted the door handle and left it hanging there and removed the bar covering the door opening. After that I unscrewed the regulator, unplugged the motor (use tape or something to secure the wiring where you can reach it or it will fall into the bottom of the door...thats no fun) and worked the entire assembly out of the opening in the door. Drill out the rivets on the old one, screw in the new one and reverse the process. OH, if youre feeling up to it plug the motor in and make sure it works before you attach it to the regulator and put it back in...dont ask. I ordered my motors off of Ebay for like $10 or so each. __________________ 1986 C10 - LWB, 305/700r4, posi, vortec heads

01-13-2008, 01:25 PM	#3
Curly86 You want it there when??? Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lewisburg Ky Posts: 393	Re: Power window Motor Ok Tks for the info. __________________ 1986 Silverado Flatbed 400 SB with 350 turbo 1997 Ford Explorer with 302 mydrive to work ride 1978 Gmc Midas RV 21ft with 46,000 actual miles 2003 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 327 and Tweety Bird Yellow Big Sandy Survivor 09 Trucks in the Blue Grass Survivor 09 TNCTC Streetcruzin

01-13-2008, 04:37 PM	#4
shadetree Senior Member Join Date: Dec 1999 Location: Knightstown, in, usa Posts: 2,525	Re: Power window Motor Usually, a drivers side motor will go out before the other motors are even broken in. I wouldn't replace the other unless it's really showing signs of wear. __________________ 1970 long fleet, 355 4 speed, primer, walnut goodies

01-13-2008, 05:35 PM	#5
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,701	Re: Power window Motor Check out this tech article over at www.73-87.com. Here's the link.http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/interior/winmotor.htm It made my last motor swap easy. __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

01-13-2008, 06:16 PM	#6
old Rusty C10 Robert Olson Transport Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: recent transplant to NC USA Posts: 20,313	Re: Power window Motor i have done it a couple of times and its real simple __________________ Bob 1951 International running on a squarebody chassis "If a man's worth is judged by the people he associates himself with, then i am the richest man in the world knowing some of the fine people of this board" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...t.php?f=25&a=9 (you can review the site rules here!) PM Me for your vehicle/parts hauling needs in the North East US or see my Facebook page Robert Olson Transport Live each day to the fullest.. you never know when fate is going to pull the rug out from under you... I hate cancer!!

01-13-2008, 07:09 PM	#7
Curly86 You want it there when??? Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lewisburg Ky Posts: 393	Re: Power window Motor It seems like a fairly simple job will tackle it soon. __________________ 1986 Silverado Flatbed 400 SB with 350 turbo 1997 Ford Explorer with 302 mydrive to work ride 1978 Gmc Midas RV 21ft with 46,000 actual miles 2003 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 327 and Tweety Bird Yellow Big Sandy Survivor 09 Trucks in the Blue Grass Survivor 09 TNCTC Streetcruzin

01-16-2008, 02:28 PM	#8
78 Chevyrado Account Suspended Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Unnapreciative, Trollville Posts: 2,079	Re: Power window Motor Get help putting the window back in the door, unless you have 4 hands... haha that's the only thing that was hard for me.

01-16-2008, 03:57 PM	#9
lolife99 67-72 parts collector,… Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Mid-MO Posts: 22,701	Re: Power window Motor I never removed the window from the door. I just duct taped it from one side of the glass- up and over the door frame. Then removed the regulator and window motor out from underneath it. Works like a charm. If your not sure about the duct tape,... use one of those ratcheting grip type clamps. (with the rubber padded grippers) __________________ Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 Last edited by lolife99; 01-16-2008 at 03:57 PM.

01-16-2008, 04:01 PM	#10
N2TRUX Happy to be here Join Date: Mar 2000 Location: Cypress, TX Posts: 39,021	Re: Power window Motor I have had more fun washing my cat, and got less scratches in the process. The jobs not that hard, but plan on bleeding a little...ok, a LOT. __________________ Follow me on Facebook and Instagram @N2trux.com Articles- "Jake" the 84 to 74 crewcab "Elwood" the77_Remix 85 GMC Sierra "Scarlett" "Refining Sierra"

01-16-2008, 04:50 PM	#11
piecesparts Parts and more parts Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Lebo, Kansas (middle of nowhere Posts: 6,821	Re: Power window Motor I took some of the soft metal Pipe hanger material (that you can buy at any hardware store in rolls) and made a hook out of the metal. I then hooked it under the window and then shot a sheetmetal screw through it at the top of the door. The hole will be covered by the interior trim, so it does not matter where. This will hold up the window and there is no fear of dropping. You disconnect the screws that hold the regulator assembly and then work th ewhole assembly out through the bottom hole in the door. After the assembly is on the bench (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT) drill a 1/4" hole through the regulator gear and the frame of the mounting bracket. Now put a bolt into the hole and lock the mechanism up by tightening a nut onto the bolt. Now the motor can be removed without he spring kicking the mechanism apart. Mount the new motor and remove the bolt and re-install. Grease EVERYTHING---if it looks like it is going to slide, rotate, or move GREASE IT. Last edited by piecesparts; 01-16-2008 at 04:52 PM.

01-21-2008, 12:01 AM	#13
Curly86 You want it there when??? Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lewisburg Ky Posts: 393	Re: Power window Motor Ok Tks __________________ 1986 Silverado Flatbed 400 SB with 350 turbo 1997 Ford Explorer with 302 mydrive to work ride 1978 Gmc Midas RV 21ft with 46,000 actual miles 2003 Chevy Avalanche 5.3 327 and Tweety Bird Yellow Big Sandy Survivor 09 Trucks in the Blue Grass Survivor 09 TNCTC Streetcruzin

01-24-2008, 11:25 PM	#14
mckpaul Registered User Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Houston Posts: 300	Re: Power window Motor Here's an easy fix.. http://jkgraphics.com/Eagle/images/Power_Windows.wmv __________________ Paul 1984 Chevy C-10 LWB/305

01-26-2008, 09:34 PM	#16
James McClure One shot, one kill. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Saratoga Springs NY Posts: 859	Re: Power window Motor Just a quick note to Curly. If your truck is a real high miler or was used for some kind of delivery service do a quick electrical check to make sure you actually have power and ground inside the door. Sometimes from the constant open\close of drivers door the wires in the body to door harnace boot break off. This is a common problem through the GM line, but not limited to GM cars and trucks. jim __________________ 1984 K20 350M engine with 465,000 miles. Well, it's finally done!! Almost 2 years of work, but it was really worth the effort. Little stuff left to do is mount winch, wet sand & buff out and build belly pan\running boards. Body work takes lots and LOTS of beer!!!! God, Guts and Guns made America and God, Guts and Guns will preserve it! The worst thing you could do is get into my sights, but that don't matter, you'll never know it, cause you'll never hear the shotJim or Paladin whichever you choose.

03-29-2009, 04:40 PM	#17
SilveradoDude Registered User Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: None Posts: 184	Re: Power window Motor Hate to resurrect this post but.... My drv side motor finally went and I popped the door panel off to prepare for a replacement motor. To my surprise the size of the door openings to access the motor and regulator are painfully small (the duct tape needs to around those sharp openings to protect your arms more than keeping the window from falling). Ok, I had to take the motor off BEFORE removing the regulator assembly (and before, obviously, putting the regulator into the vise. Am I now screwed? How do I get the motor back on? Last edited by SilveradoDude; 03-29-2009 at 06:44 PM.



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