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04-05-2009, 09:24 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 19
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2006 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 Transmission Temp and Maintenance
Any way to install a transmission temp unit on a 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 Auto? I'm pullling about 8500# of boat and wanted to keep an eye on all fluid temps?
Lar Also, just bought this truck, leased vehicle. Been driven alot for an 06 but it was clean as it could be. It has 100,000 miles on it. I'm planning on changing all fluids and filters (trans, engine, rear end and front end), radiator fluid, T-stat. Will switch to full synthetic all around. What else should I look at as far as preventative maintenance? Thoughts? |
04-05-2009, 10:00 PM | #2 | |
Windy Corner of a Dirty Street
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pueblo West, Colorado
Posts: 2,926
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Re: 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 Transmission Temp and Maintenance
Quote:
3 posts? Well, welcome to the site! The transmission temperature gauge wiring is already there. In fact, the cluster temp feed is already wired and I am surprised you don’t already have a gauge as most HD’s with automatics do. If you want to keep your GM all GM you can exchange the instrument cluster with a cluster that already has a trans temp gauge. To make the gauge work you don’t have to do anything except plug a cluster in that has a gauge and like magic it just works. However, to keep the mileage accurate the mileage will need to be programmed by an AC Delco/Delphi repair center. Or the other option would be to install an aftermarket gauge and figure out which wires to tap into. A great AC Delco/Delphi exchange center is listed below but I am not sure if they will work directly with an end user as they are a multiline OEM exchange center geared up to work with new car dealers on repairing or exchanging clusters, radios, etc. I work for an OEM manufacture and we use their services as well. http://www.ajrintl.com/ I swapped in a white faced Silverado SS cluster with a temp gauge into my 2004 Tahoe when the speedo died and it was just plug and play to get the trans temp gauge to work. I had AJR program it with the correct mileage beforehand though. I just bought a 2005 HD that the speedo doesn’t work either (common 2004-2005 GM truck issue) so I will be swapping this cluster out soon as well. Sounds like you got everything nailed down that needs to be changed at this mileage. I would recommend throwing a set of new plugs (Don't bother with fancy high dollar plugs...just go with the same plugs that GM used, which are under $5 per plug), plug wires and fuel filter in it as while you are at it. BTW…the secret to changing these plugs real quick is to remove the inner fenders to gain access to the plugs easier than reaching down from the top of the engine. The plastic clips that hold the inner fenders are reusable to be gentle when removing them. Make sure you use antiseize on the plugs before you screw them back in the the aluminum head (assuming a 6.0L) or you will hate life when you change them again at 200,000. The next thing would be to completely lube the front suspension components. I can almost guarantee you with 100% certainty that if this was a lease truck whoever was doing the LOF’s (probably a dealer or quick lube joint) did not grease the two idler arms and the bell crank as they are hidden very well and extremely hard to get to. Here is a picture of the Silverado SS cluster with the temp gauge in the lower left hand corner that I installed in my Hoe. Purdy ain’t it? Actually, I hate it! White face gauges are hard to read and where the hell exactly is 45 MPH on this stupid cluster anyway?? When I pass a cop I can never tell how fast I am going even still 5 years after I swapped this cluster in.
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Current vehicle collection: 1978 Chevrolet K10, 8.1L, NV4500, NP205 1989 Chevrolet Suburban, 8.1L, NV4500, NP241 1993 Chevrolet C1500 Sportside, TBI 7.4L, 4L60E 2001 Chevrolet K2500HD, Ext Cab, SWB, 8.1L, ZF 6 speed 2014 Chevrolet Impala LTZ 3.6L Vortec 8.1L because life is too short to tolerate underpowered vehicles
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04-06-2009, 08:46 AM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 19
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Re: 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 Transmission Temp and Maintenance
Thanks for the welcome, this is post 4 LOL. Spend most of my time on the fishing forum until something breaks.
No had a 1989 F250 4X4 "Beast" w/ 5 spd manual and got tired of replacing everything that could possibly be replaced. See I use the truck to haul a 24 ft Albermarle (8000# +) boat and needed something easier on the body, especially the left leg and dependable. I feel that even with 100,000 miles on this machine, it is a dependable truck. It looks like it has about 3600 hours on the clock according to the cluster data. I'm looking to pull the boat for a total of 150 miles "one way" from VA to NC for fishing trips and want to be certain of making it home. I was wondering what those two spare instrument slots were on the console. I will try to hunt down how to get an OEM one. I really want a clean job. The truck is fairly low end basic. I had Line-X installed Friday, new aluminum low profile tool box (sold the 3 UWS "plumbers truck boxes"), had the windows tinted. It has the factory steel wheels so they are gone as soon as the tires need replacing. I'm a project guy. You'll see me here alot, trying to take ideas from you who have gone before. Lar |
04-12-2009, 04:01 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Suffolk, VA
Posts: 19
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More questions Full Syn V. Dyno?
Hey DirtyLarry I have a few more questions for you.
The first has to do with the old question of full synthetic oil verses conventional or dyno oil. Is there any truth that the Chevy dealers DO NOT recomment changing from the OEM transmission fluid to full synthetic. Someone was telling me that the dealer says its due to the transmission valve body being "broken in" with a certain fluid and changing the fluid isn't good for the seating of these parts and I'd bst continue with the OEM fluid. I've heard arguments about the synthetic causing an engine to leak but I thought that was due to the early synthetics were causing seals to swell and leak and also removing minute debris from the seal causing leaks. I have personally changed my BMW from dyno to syn at 100,000 miles (both engine and trans) and notta leak one. So is there any reason not to go to full syn on transmission fluid? Regarding the grease points, I'm heading out for a Hayes manual but I looked and there does not seem to be any grease points on the lower ball joints, true? Lar |
04-12-2009, 10:20 PM | #5 |
Windy Corner of a Dirty Street
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Pueblo West, Colorado
Posts: 2,926
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Re: 2006 Silverado 2500 HD 4X4 Transmission Temp and Maintenance
That is a good question. It seems everybody has a different opinion when it comes to synthetic fluids. I personally do not use any synthetic lubes in any of my rigs but I have not heard of any issues where the synthetic fluid would cause a leak. However, I have heard the stories of converting to synthetic too soon can cause components to not “break in” but I don’t have any factual information to back that story up either way.
Actually, 2006 was the first year of Dexron VI transmission fluid in the 4L60E and 4L80E transmission which I believe is a full synthetic transmission fluid but you might do some research on Dexron VI to make sure it is as it could be just a synthetic blend (either way is good). In 2006 Allison did indeed changed to a full synthetic fluid in their transmissions called Transynd. Personally, I don’t see a need to change the transmission fluid to synthetic regardless what year the truck is as long as you follow the schedule maintenance and change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. Yes, there are grease zerks in the lower ball joints. To get to the right lower ball joint grease zerk turn the wheels all the way to the left and get to it from the back side of the wheel. The zerk is on the top side of the ball joint body just below the outter front axle CV joint boot. Then turn the wheels all the way to the right to get to the left lower ball joint grease zerk. There are actually 11 grease zerks in the front suspension of the GMT800 trucks. Upper and lower ball joints (4 zerks), inner and outer tie rods (4 zerks), an idler arm on each side (2 zerks) as well as a bell crank (1 zerk) on the right side that is very well hidden up under the plastic splash shield. Most quicky lube shops only grease the ball joints and outer tie rods because they do not realize there are more zerks there. Have fun with that...
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Current vehicle collection: 1978 Chevrolet K10, 8.1L, NV4500, NP205 1989 Chevrolet Suburban, 8.1L, NV4500, NP241 1993 Chevrolet C1500 Sportside, TBI 7.4L, 4L60E 2001 Chevrolet K2500HD, Ext Cab, SWB, 8.1L, ZF 6 speed 2014 Chevrolet Impala LTZ 3.6L Vortec 8.1L because life is too short to tolerate underpowered vehicles
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