Heater control - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Vega · 04-20-2009, 10:54 PM

I am replacing my heater control, is there any way to keep the lever box from breaking off of the face plate? JB weld in the flared out rod? Or any other ideas?
Thanks for your help, Bruce

**LockDoc** · 04-21-2009, 09:46 AM

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Here are a couple of threads on it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=322188

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=325134

LockDoc

soba_03 · 04-21-2009, 01:36 PM

Vega, locdoc hit it. Look at the second link. Thats exactally what I did. Back drilled the rivet out then countersunk the face plate and used a small coutersunk screw. I never recovered mine with tape but you can and you will never see it. I'm not sure if you could weld it, it's potmetal and not sure if it would hold or break even futher.

Vega · 04-21-2009, 05:58 PM

Thanks for the help! My heater control is not broke, I am trying to keep it from breaking off. I thought if I put some JB Weld on top of the flared out parts it mite strengthen it up. And I didn't like the looks of the new levers, I have a rebuild kit, I was going to use a broke control with good levers to put in the other one. Are these replacements better than the orginals, I know the new ones are steel and the orginals are pot metal.
thanks again, Bruce

PanelDeland · 04-21-2009, 06:05 PM

If you're asking about the levers,yes the replacements/rebuild kits seem much better.I had tight cables and a broken lever.The rebuild kit was fairly easy to do but I took the time to paint mine and allow it to dry well.This also gave me time to soak the cables and then allow them to lay in a drain pan of used motor oil for a couple of days.They have stayed free for about 10 years with an occassional squirt of graphite lube.I feel that the main reason people broke/break the levers is that the cables become rusted/tight from age and bind causing pressure on the levers/faceplate.

04-20-2009, 10:54 PM	#1
Vega Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Clarinda, Iowa USA Posts: 22	Heater control I am replacing my heater control, is there any way to keep the lever box from breaking off of the face plate? JB weld in the flared out rod? Or any other ideas? Thanks for your help, Bruce

04-21-2009, 09:46 AM	#2
LockDoc The Older Generation Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Montezuma, Iowa Posts: 25,818	Re: Heater control - Here are a couple of threads on it. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=322188 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=325134 LockDoc __________________ Leon Locksmith, Specializing In Antique Trucks, Automobiles, & Motorcycles (My Dually Pickup Project Thread) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=829820 -

04-21-2009, 01:36 PM	#3
soba_03 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Fairdale, Kentucky Posts: 560	Re: Heater control Vega, locdoc hit it. Look at the second link. Thats exactally what I did. Back drilled the rivet out then countersunk the face plate and used a small coutersunk screw. I never recovered mine with tape but you can and you will never see it. I'm not sure if you could weld it, it's potmetal and not sure if it would hold or break even futher.

04-21-2009, 05:58 PM	#4
Vega Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Clarinda, Iowa USA Posts: 22	Re: Heater control Thanks for the help! My heater control is not broke, I am trying to keep it from breaking off. I thought if I put some JB Weld on top of the flared out parts it mite strengthen it up. And I didn't like the looks of the new levers, I have a rebuild kit, I was going to use a broke control with good levers to put in the other one. Are these replacements better than the orginals, I know the new ones are steel and the orginals are pot metal. thanks again, Bruce

04-21-2009, 06:05 PM	#5
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Re: Heater control If you're asking about the levers,yes the replacements/rebuild kits seem much better.I had tight cables and a broken lever.The rebuild kit was fairly easy to do but I took the time to paint mine and allow it to dry well.This also gave me time to soak the cables and then allow them to lay in a drain pan of used motor oil for a couple of days.They have stayed free for about 10 years with an occassional squirt of graphite lube.I feel that the main reason people broke/break the levers is that the cables become rusted/tight from age and bind causing pressure on the levers/faceplate. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil" Last edited by PanelDeland; 04-21-2009 at 06:06 PM.



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