Change cam with motor in truck?

[Sinister]

Is it possible to change the cam with the motor in the truck? Do you have to pull the grill?

[smoky02]

I have been told that you can do it. And that you just pull the radiator and all the accesories on the front of the motor. But I am not sure if I believe that or not...LOL

[Mthird]

you have to remove the Headers or manifolds which ever you have, the intake the heads the radiator and all the accessories, the water pump, basically everything, use a magnet to get out the lifters. I recommend just yanking the motor.

[EdB]

I did this when I had a lobe wear down on
a new engine. It has been a few years. As I remember,
I had to pull the radiator, water pump, intake and timing
chain cover. I had to pull the lifters and the new cam
went in ok. Something to consider is the age of the
engine and wear on the cam bearings. Cleanness is
critical. Go easy to avoid damaging the bearings.

EdB

[Jim_PA]

Originally Posted by Mthird

you have to remove the Headers or manifolds which ever you have, the intake the heads the radiator and all the accessories, the water pump, basically everything, use a magnet to get out the lifters. I recommend just yanking the motor.

Why do you remove heads and headers? I can't recall doing this when I swapped a cam in my 84 Camaro some ago...

[long69]

no you dont have to remove headers and heads to change the cam in or out of the truck. as far as the grill may be a tape measure would be the best way to check. the cam is just about as long as the block, if you have enough to stick another engine in front of your present one then you can leave the grill.

[monte0185]

IT can be done. Its not fun but it can be done.

[So.Cal.Super]

I just did mine this weekend with the motor in the truck. I will try and give you an idea of how it went.

I pumped down the A/C

Disconnect the battery

Drained the coolant

Aired down the front tires
(I have 33’s so this makes it easier to work on this project)

Removed the egg crate (I left my grill in)

Removed the radiator

Removed the condenser

Removed the center support

Removed the belts

Removed the Fan clutch

Removed the water pump

Removed the Dampener pulley

Removed the timing chain cover

Check for TDC (I pulled my plugs since I was going to change them)

Removed the dizzy

Removed the Carb

Removed the intake

Removed the valve covers

Loosened the lifters and removed the pushrods.
( I like to keep left bank separate from right and I also checked to make sure I had no bent ones.)

Removed lifters with magnet

Unbolt fuel pump and let the rod drop out of the cam’s way

Removed the timing chain

Removed the Cam
(Screw in a few bolts that fit so you can get a grip on it gently wiggle and pull like you were delivering your first born son. If it’s stubborn give him a few togs. but, be careful of the bearings.
You don’t want to have to beat it out with a hammer or you will have/already have other serious problems.)

You can inspect your cam bearings at this time (what you can see of them) if you see any broken or cracked I would stop until you can pull the motor.

Cover lifter valley with rags remove large chunks of gasket by hand, scrape off remaining.

REMOVE RAGS

Clean up the timing chain area. I trimmed my oil pan gasket back to flush.

Inspect new cam then lube, lube again and lube some more.

Slowly walk it, wiggle it and walk it back into place.

Lube up your lifters with cam lube.

And reinstall timing gear.

From here it just putting everything back on, new seals, gaskets, etc.

This is a write up of how what I did with the engine in the truck. I am sure every one does it their own way. I started this project because I had a lifter ticking and my dampener pulley slipped so I couldn't set proper timing. I know the rest of the motor is in good shape from an earlier tear down.

What I was asked from when I was calling vendors about my cam.
(This may help or you may already know this.)

I told them I wanted to use stock push rods and valve springs.
They wanted to know if my valve springs were still good
I knew they were from an earlier tear down

So that set the parameters for what Cam’s I could use and since I was tearing it all apart I put a new timing gear in it, new water pump and new intake. I wish I would have taken step by step pictures but I am working on it at my buddies since he has all the pullers and odd tools I don’t have. Also don’t forget to use a break in lube and good oil (I used Valvoline VR 20-50(high zinc) and follow the cam specs for break in (mine is 2500 rpm for ½ hour)

This is by no means meant to be a guide more my point of view of what I did and how it can be done in the truck.

Good luck.

I am finishing mine hopefully this weekend I do have before and after pics and will post them then.

[bowtiedude]

I have done the in truck swap on many of these trucks. You do not have to take the grille out.

[Sinister]

Cool, thanks guys.

[eightbanger]

Originally Posted by So.Cal.Super

I just did mine this weekend with the motor in the truck. I will try and give you an idea of how it went.

This is by no means meant to be a guide more my point of view of what I did and how it can be done in the truck.

Good luck.

I am finishing mine hopefully this weekend I do have before and after pics and will post them then.

Nice walkthrough SO.Cal...Thanks for that.

[So.Cal.Super]

Originally Posted by eightbanger

Nice walkthrough SO.Cal...Thanks for that.

Thanks! I just wish I would have taken pic's now I am kicking myself for not getting every step

Ah we live and learn.

[Ol'Rover]

my dad used to change out cams in his truck in an hour, befor he had to go home from work lol. He didnt pull the motor, so it can be done.

Just the rad, some people pull the grill just to be safe, but there should be enough room from the front of the block to the grill, to get the old cam out and the new one in. As far as i know all you realy need to take off is : Waterpump, any other front end components in the way, and move the rad.

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by So.Cal.Super

I just did mine this weekend with the motor in the truck. I will try and give you an idea of how it went.

I pumped down the A/C

Disconnect the battery

Drained the coolant

Aired down the front tires
(I have 33’s so this makes it easier to work on this project)

Removed the egg crate (I left my grill in)

Removed the radiator

Removed the condenser

Removed the center support

Removed the belts

Removed the Fan clutch

Removed the water pump

Removed the Dampener pulley

Removed the timing chain cover

Check for TDC (I pulled my plugs since I was going to change them)

Removed the dizzy

Removed the Carb

Removed the intake

Removed the valve covers

Loosened the lifters and removed the pushrods.
( I like to keep left bank separate from right and I also checked to make sure I had no bent ones.)

Removed lifters with magnet

Unbolt fuel pump and let the rod drop out of the cam’s way

Removed the timing chain

Removed the Cam
(Screw in a few bolts that fit so you can get a grip on it gently wiggle and pull like you were delivering your first born son. If it’s stubborn give him a few togs. but, be careful of the bearings.
You don’t want to have to beat it out with a hammer or you will have/already have other serious problems.)

You can inspect your cam bearings at this time (what you can see of them) if you see any broken or cracked I would stop until you can pull the motor.

Cover lifter valley with rags remove large chunks of gasket by hand, scrape off remaining.

REMOVE RAGS

Clean up the timing chain area. I trimmed my oil pan gasket back to flush.

Inspect new cam then lube, lube again and lube some more.

Slowly walk it, wiggle it and walk it back into place.

Lube up your lifters with cam lube.

And reinstall timing gear.

From here it just putting everything back on, new seals, gaskets, etc.

This is a write up of how what I did with the engine in the truck. I am sure every one does it their own way. I started this project because I had a lifter ticking and my dampener pulley slipped so I couldn't set proper timing. I know the rest of the motor is in good shape from an earlier tear down.

What I was asked from when I was calling vendors about my cam.
(This may help or you may already know this.)

I told them I wanted to use stock push rods and valve springs.
They wanted to know if my valve springs were still good
I knew they were from an earlier tear down

So that set the parameters for what Cam’s I could use and since I was tearing it all apart I put a new timing gear in it, new water pump and new intake. I wish I would have taken step by step pictures but I am working on it at my buddies since he has all the pullers and odd tools I don’t have. Also don’t forget to use a break in lube and good oil (I used Valvoline VR 20-50(high zinc) and follow the cam specs for break in (mine is 2500 rpm for ½ hour)

This is by no means meant to be a guide more my point of view of what I did and how it can be done in the truck.

Good luck.

I am finishing mine hopefully this weekend I do have before and after pics and will post them then.

Should be a FAQ.

[primered_junk]

Also don't forget one key factor. Only lube the bottom side of the lifters, DON'T lube the sides, they will not rotate in the lifter bores and flatten the lobes on your new cam.

[hchad18]

Originally Posted by primered_junk

Also don't forget one key factor. Only lube the bottom side of the lifters, DON'T lube the sides, they will not rotate in the lifter bores and flatten the lobes on your new cam.

You had to say that. I just installed my cam and lifters and put a ring of lube around the bottom of the lifter sides, AND put the intake on already.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by primered_junk

Also don't forget one key factor. Only lube the bottom side of the lifters, DON'T lube the sides, they will not rotate in the lifter bores and flatten the lobes on your new cam.

Isn't the lube for protection upon initial startup -- and won't it be washed off by normal oil flow in a reasonable amount of time as the engine runs, therefore allowing the lifters to rotate as normal?

[hchad18]

Everywhere I've read says lube bottom side of lifter. The vortec intake gasket is $30.00. I hate to have to buy a new one.

[So.Cal.Super]

I have never heard this before but I can say that about a lot of things. I just called edelbrock tech to ask them since I have always coated my lifters during a swap out.... on hold with tech now.

[Sinister]

In "How to Build the Smallblock Chevrolet", it says breakin lube on the cam contact surface of the lifter and assembly lube on the outside of the lifter.

[So.Cal.Super]

According to Edelbrock tech this will not cause lobe wear. Chris who I spoke with and he double checked with a few others while I was on hold for quite a few mins. They all agreed this would not cause a problem. What would cause a problem was if the bottom of the lifters were not coated at all. But coating the sides with assembly lube just insures some lubrication during start up to prevent wear.
This is how I have always done my cam change outs (probably half a dozen with friends and all) and have never had a problem.

And since this is who is warranting my cam I will go with they tell me.

[So.Cal.Super]

You posted while I was on hold Sinister but, Yeah thats how I've done it / seen it done. I also know I have seen a fair share of "I have never had that happen before" problems to know the strangest thing can happen.

[americanmusc1e]

Originally Posted by hchad18

Everywhere I've read says lube bottom side of lifter. The vortec intake gasket is $30.00. I hate to have to buy a new one.

if you have the plasic gaskets with O-rings, they should be reusable. if not, get 'em they work great