67-68 Ignition switch tricks

[Mike Massingill]

I have spent a couple of hours trying to make my igintion switch fit/work.

So, after visiting my local locksmith, I decided to give the site back a little of what I have taken.

Below are all the parts of a 67-68 switch. Th 67-68 lock collar is not reproduced, but the 69-72 are. They are slightly larger. The front chrome collar is smaller for the 67-68 ignition switch hole in the dash.

[Mike Massingill]

You will need to trim about 3/8" of an inch off the front of the lock collar shown where the pen is pointig. We used a mill, but I took another 1/16" off easy with a cut off wheel. It needs to be straight and level to properly support the ignition switch tightly. This collar holds the switch from the backside of the dash.

If the switch is loose in the collar, you can trim a little off the other side of the collar to tighten it up.

[Mike Massingill]

What was killing me was kind of stupid. The switch itself has a slot in the bottom. Since we did not have the switch installed when starting the truck and trouble shooting the electrical, we had used a screwdriver to operate the switch.

The switch slot shown had been left in the wrong position to not allow the tumbler to seat fully in the switch. If the tumbler does not seat fully the switch will sit up exactly the depth of the slot.

The assembly must be installed before the tumbler is inserted, or the outer chrome collar will not fit on.

[Mike Massingill]

To remove the tumbler to remove the switch, a stout paper clip needs to be inserted in the small hole as shown. This will push the small brass pin down in the switch, and you can see it in the picture where the pen is pointing. Turn the key to the ACC position far right,then wiggle it one way or the other and the tumbler will come out with the key.