This sounds crazy. Anyone know?

[spinning wheels]

Originally Posted by El Jay

In the olden daze, the water injectors were used to help control detonation on cars & trucks that were working real hard, like pulling a trailer, etc.

It was an after market "sprayer" that had a nozzle going through the top on the air cleaner.
If the engine started to detonate, the driver turned on the water & let it spray into the carburetor.
A lot of folks made their own using windshield wash pumps instead of paying premium $'s for an aftermarket kit.

June 2009 issue of Hot Rod magazine, has an article on water injection.

[mosesburb]

I have used the water down the carb for years. It works great.

My Grandma had a '79 Z28 that was not stock and she drove it, well, like a grandma. She'd roll in every four to six weeks with it running on three or four cylinders. I'd put a couple soda cans worth of wather through it (birds would fall out of the sky during the procedure), beat it around the block a couple times and give it back to her running tip-top, smooth as silk.
Water works great provided you give it to it in digestable amounts.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by mycool72

I just poured a bud light down my carb, now the damn thing pulls to the right

Swerves for every bar?

[El Jay]

I've used ATF to free up sticky lifters.
Having said that, the car/truck never left my driveway. I just let it sit there & idle, sometimes fast idle, for a 1/2 hour, or more.
After that, it was an immediate oil & filter change.

[Musclerodz]

I have used a quart of ATF in the oil mulitple times on high mileage engines. It is a very high detergent fluid and will loosen carbon build up and stuck rings. Marvel mystery oil works good as well but more expensive.

[Camper Power]

iv heard of pouring atf into the tank but not into the carb or the crankcase, maybe il try the crankcase to clean up some of the sludge.

[Tx Firefighter]

GM sells a specific product called Upper Engine cleaner specifically for this purpose.



I have used it many times and it works. You meter it into the carburetor or throttle body like everyone here is saying, then when you get to the end of the can, you allow the engine to die and leave it soaking for awhile.

After a few hours, you restart the engine and drive it hard for a mile or two. It will blow out a lot of smoke and carbon deposits, often curing pinging issues and other problems associated with carbon deposits.

[Longhorn Man]

This has nothing to do with this discussion, we are talking about pouring it into the carb, where it goes into the combustion chaimber and burns, then goes out the tail pipe.
What you are quoting, is pouring it in the oil, where it goes into the luberication system and then drained out the oil pan.
Your info is quite good, and something I'd like to see a link on or something, as I happen to agree with, these oil chainge places should be fined for false advertising for doing this.
You have great info, just not exactly the convorsation going on here.

Originally Posted by spinning wheels

There was recently a report on tv about the internal engine cleaning some shops are pushing on their customer. They had a lubrication engineer explaining what the shops were trying to sell. He highly recommended staying away from the internal cleaning devises. He stated that they do more harm than good to an engine. He was referring to a newer fuel injected engine, not sure how he would feel about an older carb motor. As for cleaning the lubricated parts, he recommended adding a quart of ATF, when you are going to do an oil change. Warm up the engine to operating temp. Then draining the oil/ATF. He stated that the ATF is more of a solvent than a lubricant, and would help remove built up sludge deposits in the motor. Just thought I would pass this info on.

[Pont406]

I use seafoam at every other oil change. It smokes a little but not too bad.

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by Pont406

I use seafoam at every other oil change. It smokes a little but not too bad.

Sea Foam and Deep Creep are my friends.

[spinning wheels]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

This has nothing to do with this discussion, we are talking about pouring it into the carb, where it goes into the combustion chaimber and burns, then goes out the tail pipe.
What you are quoting, is pouring it in the oil, where it goes into the luberication system and then drained out the oil pan.
Your info is quite good, and something I'd like to see a link on or something, as I happen to agree with, these oil chainge places should be fined for false advertising for doing this.
You have great info, just not exactly the convorsation going on here.

Post #1 reads, that, "he was advised by a guy at a shop", on how to clean the inside of an engine. Does not specify if its the combustion chamber or entire engine including the lubrication system. I passed info concerning cleaning both combustion chamber and the lubrication system. I am not a lubrication engineer, so I found the info very interesting. I found it very interested when he said to add a quart of ATF into the engine before doing an oil change. I had never heard anybody recommend this procedure before. But he strongly advised to stay away from cleaning solutions going into the intake of the motor. I have never heard of adding ATF thru the carb to clean an engine, so I would think we are discussing the same thing. Cleaning the inside of an engine. Right?

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

GM sells a specific product called Upper Engine cleaner specifically for this purpose.



I have used it many times and it works. You meter it into the carburetor or throttle body like everyone here is saying, then when you get to the end of the can, you allow the engine to die and leave it soaking for awhile.

After a few hours, you restart the engine and drive it hard for a mile or two. It will blow out a lot of smoke and carbon deposits, often curing pinging issues and other problems associated with carbon deposits.

They stopped selling that product in Calif. about 4 years ago,(check your local chevy dealer) but it did work.

Note; If your engine is in good shape you probably don't need to "clean" it.
I used to use the above stuff on an old worn out engine that smoked and leaked oil past the valve seals and after a few thousand miles it would start knocking from all the carbon in the heads. After "cleaning" the knock was gone.

[easydoesit]

when i use to work at a wrecking yard a few years back, we would add a bit of AFT to sour running engines to boost compression. some of the engines would run better and the compression would go up as well. i would do it on an old carb engine in my rig if it seemed to need it.

[57ExtCab]

I got a good friend thats a Mech. at a Mercides Dealership seen him, more than once (pour) sowly or metering like put ATF in newer gas Mercides , Manually working throttle and choke. And yes it fog like a MOFO for a bit, thought he was crazy but he just looked at me and grin saying thats the easist $75 dollar side job that he knows of. He's Going on his 25+ years at same dealarship.

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by 57ExtCab

I got a good friend thats a Mech. at a Mercides Dealership seen him, more than once (pour) sowly or metering like put ATF in newer gas Mercides , Manually working throttle and choke. And yes it fog like a MOFO for a bit, thought he was crazy but he just looked at me and grin saying thats the easist $75 dollar side job that he knows of. He's Going on his 25+ years at same dealarship.

We used to do "Liquid Vale Jobs" at the shop that I worked at years ago. It works to take the carbon off of the engine's valves and piston tops. The process works if you don't do it to fast.

[piecesparts]

Originally Posted by 57ExtCab

I got a good friend thats a Mech. at a Mercides Dealership seen him, more than once (pour) sowly or metering like put ATF in newer gas Mercides , Manually working throttle and choke. And yes it fog like a MOFO for a bit, thought he was crazy but he just looked at me and grin saying thats the easist $75 dollar side job that he knows of. He's Going on his 25+ years at same dealarship.

We used to do "Liquid Valve Jobs" at the shop that I worked at years ago. It works to take the carbon off of the engine's valves and piston tops. The process works if you don't do it to fast.

[ChevLoRay]

I worked at an ESSO station in the mid-60's. We sold several different liquids that were sometimes poured in the carb and/or poured in the gas tank. Wynns made an upper cylinder lube. Bardahl was another additive. We sold/installed water injection units (owner/boss was money hungry). At Sears automotive center where I worked in the mid-70's, all kinds of stuff got poured in the carbs to cut the carbon from the combustion chambers. Seems Sears sold a can of "Combustion Chamber Cleaner" under their brand name. I don't know who made it, but you know it had to have come from some where else. My dad swore by Risolone. We had bought a '67 Cougar new in Dec. '66. By the time both of my brothers and two of my sisters had learned to drive, it was getting a bit sluggish. A mechanic turned dad on to the idea of pouring the Risolone down the carb (half a can) and the other half in the gas tank. He credited that process with being able to add another 40K miles to it. When I got it back in '74, it had about 130K miles on it. Within another 10K miles, it was torn down for a possible rebuild. The mechanic said he had never seen an engine that was so completely worn out. I guess the Risolone distributed the wear more evenly......

There was an earlier comment about hydraulic lock and the statement about liquids not compressing. That is the principle of hydraulics....that a liquid can not be compressed. So, be careful how you pour anything down the carb. Don't flood it with liquids of any type. The "fogging" method is right.

[71/454]

I have heard about the atf and water thing, and have personally done the atf and it works well. I learned it prob like the rest of you from the guys I grew up with. They also talked about water too, but they said not to do it. They said it works too well, as in it will take a big chunk of carbon and free it up but it will get stuck in the valve because the steam makes it come off so well. I was told the atf works a little slower and won't cause a burnt valve.
I won't use atf on anything with an o2 sensor because it may damage it. On those vehicles I use seafoam or the Gm stuff that was mentioned earlier. I'm not sure if either was better than the other.