Press on Door weather strip

[Sinister]

I just received my press on door seals from GMC Paul's. When I go to install do I start at the 45* angle above the vent window? Any tips?

[68gmsee]

I just did mine last year, but I don't remember where I started. The only thing I made sure was that the ends met at the bottom.

They will be tight for a while especially since you're doing them in the winter. I had to slide back the striker plate slightly and that helped.

Also, I found out that if I tried to slam the door when it was wide open, it was harder to shut. I started closing it until there was about 6 inches left and then gave it a shove. I guess it has something to do with compressing the air in the cab???

[Sinister]

Thanks for the reply. Did you have to cut the seal at all, for the corners or anything?

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Sinister

Thanks for the reply. Did you have to cut the seal at all, for the corners or anything?

I didn't do any notching or cutting. I just pushed it up on the corners and all around until I got to the bottom. Lined up both ends and cut it with a razor. I thought I had a picture of the seal after I installed it but coudn't find it. If I remember I'll post one up tomorrow.

[Sinister]

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll probally install this weekend.

[Custom 68]

I think there are a couple different ones one is a glue on that has the corners molded in this is specific to our years truck.
I remember some used a generic one from an s10 and I think GMC Pauls carried it it just "clipped" in place and I bet you will need to cut it I would start at that forward corner and work from there.
Clear as mud?

[suville]

It helps if you can lay the door seal out flat and set it in the shape it will eventually rest it , tape it to the floor if ya have to and let it set for a day or ..... Start the seal in a corner,( always work from the corner not into it) as you work your way around the perimiter the seal will "walk" a little and what will happen you get to the corner and you have to undo what youve just installed and try to line up the corner. As you work the seal on keep a slight pressure or tension into the corner its easier to pull the seal out or away along the pinch weld ( if you need to strech it out to meet)on a straight "run". As you come around the curve at the top back edge of the door keep pushing the seal back in the direction you have just installed so as to put extra into the curve,( same at the bottom corners) the shrinkage away from this curve is due to not enough seal in the curve. I hope this makes sence. when you glue it on it is not necessary to glue the full perimeter, install the seal "dry" and do not trim anything at this point now glue the corner or at the angle tape it in place and shut the door as snug as it will go without latching just the door in the hole so to speak you can now work on the other door or something else leave the door seal till the glue sets give it 12 hrs. now you only need to glue every 6-8 inches and a couple inches of adhesive, now if you have extra seal trim off the excess. Doing the seals this way usually insures seals that stay in place and dont pull out of the corners. And if you do have a gap it the bottom that pinchweld is covered by the sill plate thats what its for so dont worry about that, if it does meet then great! Hope this is understandable! But your milage may vary!

[Sinister]

Huh, I was under the impression these didn't need any glue. Do they carry the glue at an auto parts store?

[68gmsee]

Had forgotten to take the pics. Here's a few I just took. The only place where you can see a little bit of the metal is on the angle above the vent window area. Still seals good and I won't mess with it.

I didn't use any glue and these are the GMC Paul's push on type.

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by 68gmsee

I just did mine last year, but I don't remember where I started. The only thing I made sure was that the ends met at the bottom.

They will be tight for a while especially since you're doing them in the winter. I had to slide back the striker plate slightly and that helped.

Also, I found out that if I tried to slam the door when it was wide open, it was harder to shut. I started closing it until there was about 6 inches left and then gave it a shove. I guess it has something to do with compressing the air in the cab???

I have heard the Dodge clip on W/S works better than the Chevy stuff....doors are easier to shut

[Sinister]

Cool, thanks for the pics.

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I have heard the Dodge clip on W/S works better than the Chevy stuff....doors are easier to shut

I had read that before. Only problem is we don't have a lot of salvage yards here that have a good selection of parts. For some reason the ones I looked at including the S10 ones were all messed up.

I'm going to keep my eyes open for those to put on my 69 when I start working on it again.

[Hawker7]

those look good. I have a new set of the glue on type still in the plastic, but think I'm going to order a set of the push one's from GMC Paul's.

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

I have heard the Dodge clip on W/S works better than the Chevy stuff....doors are easier to shut

I heard the GMC Paul's ones are actually for a Dodge, but I may be mistaken.

[jorgensensc]

They are for a dodge. I think Durango or Dakota, I can't remember. I will say this. I just installed the glue in type on the suburban. I took an incredible amount of time. Even taking time to cut wood so that I could use clamps and hold even pressure on the seals. I let them sit for two days before undoing them. I closed the doors a few times and immediately noticed there was a huge problem. The seals are very soft and pliable everywhere, but in the mitered corners. There they are as hard as a rock with no give at all. They were very hard to shut and had within 4 days of driving the suburban pulled both the passenger side doors off of the lip. And before you ask. I used a scotchbrite pad to roughen up the lip and cleaned it with degreaser and cleaner before installation of the glue. I even put them in the dryer for a few minutes before hand to soften them up a little before installation. I used the method described above to push back into the corners. I have found that the corners simply have no give. So when the door is shut it hits that corner and pushes the weatherstripping, thus pulling it from the lip, and pulling more seal with it. I need to find out if the Push on type the he sells will work for the rear door on the Burb. If so I will be ordering a new set soon. Hope this helps. THis is only my experience and opinion, not the Gospel. Do as you will.
Shawn

[lks dcvn]

Anybody know the year(s) Dodge Dakota or Durango that I can search for locally to get these seals?

[72 SHORTBED 7.0]

What he said ^^^^^

[LockDoc]

-
Here is a quote from board member 72-c20: <I ended up getting a set of seals off a 91 Dakota. went on like a charm. had to cut off about 3" and done. $2.40 from a junkyard.>

LockDoc

[smoked68]

I just got a set from the junk yard mid 90's chevy truck. They work great, no glue and no cussing. Just pressed them on, cut about 4 or 5 inches off and ta da. 2.50 for both...They fit perfect also...on a 68

[Treat]

Does anybody know where I can find a complete weatherstrip kit for a 72 blazer? I've seen them for 73+ but cant seem to for the 72. I also need to source a patch panel for behind the top hinge on the drivers side door. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[dan42]

This deosn't help you, treat, but for everyone else: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=336275
post #7 - thanks, Locdoc - you Iowans are the bomb. (my parents were Iowans.)

[Treat]

Thats still good to know. Dan is there a different thread I should ask my question on?

[Sinister]

I would try one of the Board Vendors. In the future it might be better to start a new thread.