Cutting a LWB to a SWB floor HOW ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

72MARIO · 03-20-2003, 04:05 PM

What has to be Done ? I have the sides but a floor is impossible to find here. Wood is a option but the stuff is really $$$$$.

Help me I need a floor soon. the cab and clip are omost ready for primer.

Mario.

=Rust and LWB trucks

SCOTI · 03-20-2003, 05:17 PM

72MARIO, I'll be finished tonight & can get the measurments on the long steel floor I'm working on. If I can get a camera by then, I'll click some pics when I make the cuts. I'm prob going to try & buy a mig-welder asap to get this & my crossmember done.

Any info in particular your looking for?

72MARIO · 03-20-2003, 08:14 PM

Is it just 2 simple cut's ? I never had a box so I have no idea how it goes together. I am going to get a LWB floor tubs and head board next friday. Any help would be great.

Kid · 03-20-2003, 08:22 PM

Take your stock long bed floor, cut 12" off the front of the floor, and 8" off the rear, but take the aft 8" approx. 4" fwd. from the aft edge, because you will have to weld the rear cross member/ aft end of floor back to the remaning floor. That way you can save the end of the ribs.
See attached pic. Before welding, bolt the bed sides to the floor, then bolt the aft 4" peice to the bed sides (rear pillars)
(4 locations each side), that way you can make minor adjustments if needed. I hope this helps. It's hard to explain, but it is not that hard to do.

72MARIO · 03-20-2003, 08:35 PM

Thank's I think I will figure it out.

You say to cut 12 off the front first then cut only 4" from the back ? Kinda lost there.... Could you Please try and explain it again ?

SCOTI · 03-20-2003, 09:14 PM

Scribe a line 4" from the rear lip of the floor. Scribe a second line 12" from the rear lip of the floor. The 2 scribe lines indicate the 8" you will remove.

When cutting like Kid described you will need to drill new holes to be able to bolt the header panel & bedsides on. The front will also not have the factory tapered appearance (in case this matters to you).

Kid · 03-23-2003, 08:51 PM

Thanks for clearifying my post SCOTI, as you said, you will need to drill holes thru floor to bolt the header panel on, the bed sides align with existing holes except for the fwd. 1 hole. Drilling new holes for the header panel was easier than welding another 5' seam.

03-20-2003, 04:05 PM	#1
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Cutting a LWB to a SWB floor HOW ? What has to be Done ? I have the sides but a floor is impossible to find here. Wood is a option but the stuff is really $$$$$. Help me I need a floor soon. the cab and clip are omost ready for primer. Mario. =Rust and LWB trucks __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-20-2003, 05:17 PM	#2
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	72MARIO, I'll be finished tonight & can get the measurments on the long steel floor I'm working on. If I can get a camera by then, I'll click some pics when I make the cuts. I'm prob going to try & buy a mig-welder asap to get this & my crossmember done. Any info in particular your looking for? __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-20-2003, 08:14 PM	#3
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Is it just 2 simple cut's ? I never had a box so I have no idea how it goes together. I am going to get a LWB floor tubs and head board next friday. Any help would be great. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-20-2003, 08:22 PM	#4
Kid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas Posts: 702	Take your stock long bed floor, cut 12" off the front of the floor, and 8" off the rear, but take the aft 8" approx. 4" fwd. from the aft edge, because you will have to weld the rear cross member/ aft end of floor back to the remaning floor. That way you can save the end of the ribs. See attached pic. Before welding, bolt the bed sides to the floor, then bolt the aft 4" peice to the bed sides (rear pillars) (4 locations each side), that way you can make minor adjustments if needed. I hope this helps. It's hard to explain, but it is not that hard to do. Attached Images __________________ The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348

03-20-2003, 08:35 PM	#5
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	Thank's I think I will figure it out. You say to cut 12 off the front first then cut only 4" from the back ? Kinda lost there.... Could you Please try and explain it again ? __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-20-2003, 09:14 PM	#6
SCOTI Registered User Join Date: Apr 2001 Location: DALLAS,TX Posts: 22,031	Scribe a line 4" from the rear lip of the floor. Scribe a second line 12" from the rear lip of the floor. The 2 scribe lines indicate the 8" you will remove. When cutting like Kid described you will need to drill new holes to be able to bolt the header panel & bedsides on. The front will also not have the factory tapered appearance (in case this matters to you). __________________ 67SWB-B.B.RetroRod 64SWB-Recycle 89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck 99CCSWB Driver All Fleetsides @rattlecankustoms in IG Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive. It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar..... *Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.*

03-23-2003, 08:51 PM	#7
Kid Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Kansas Posts: 702	Thanks for clearifying my post SCOTI, as you said, you will need to drill holes thru floor to bolt the header panel on, the bed sides align with existing holes except for the fwd. 1 hole. Drilling new holes for the header panel was easier than welding another 5' seam. __________________ The kid Build threads: 51 Jimmy http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=154951 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219902 http://www.classictrucks.com/feature...uck/index.html 68 C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ad.php?t=50348



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