Need help: bodydrop, or no bodydrop?

[The Big Green]

Basically, just like anyone elses bagged, Z'ed, and 4-linked truck, they lay on pinch welds on the rockers. I can only gain like a 1/2in if I cut or fold the pinch welds. Is it worth paying a guy for the labor to do this? I think it's low enough but if the labor wasn't to high then I'd consider of course. It may lay a tad bit more if I did away with pinch welds now. No body is the same, and same with engines. I pretty much dig the welds in the dirt when I lay. How are the guys doing away with the pinch welds on the rockers?

[68laydout]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

Basically, just like anyone elses bagged, Z'ed, and 4-linked truck, they lay on pinch welds on the rockers. I can only gain like a 1/2in if I cut or fold the pinch welds. Is it worth paying a guy for the labor to do this? I think it's low enough but if the labor wasn't to high then I'd consider of course. It may lay a tad bit more if I did away with pinch welds now. No body is the same, and same with engines. I pretty much dig the welds in the dirt when I lay. How are the guys doing away with the pinch welds on the rockers?

Myself and most just cut the pinch off the bottom of the rocker and lower the body mounts an inch or so. It will lay the bottom of the rocker flat on the ground. I welded some 1/8" thick strap to the bottom of inner/outer rocker for support. Also, the bottom part of the front bed side will still be half an inch or so from the ground. If you want the bed flat out you will have to chop the rockers and raise the floor.

[68laydout]

You can always door it if you are super knar. I would expect 4-6 hours of labor at the very least, unless the cab is already seperated. It's only an inch but all these things are affected. Body mounts, frame horns, firewall trimming, tranny tunnel, steering linkage, brake lines, etc...

[The Big Green]

Mine has a 2.5 Z, and tranny trunnel has enough room for one inch. That is a lot of work for a inch, but it's all a look thing. Your truck sits good though. I could also do all the body bushings while everythings being moved for the BD.

On a side note, my exhaust was done yesterday and it's way to loud. I have a 4-link, 2-piece driveshaft(swb), and the exhaust can't really be ran past the cab. It's a stock 350, little RV cam, and manifolds. The Magnaflows and 2.5 pipes are dumped at the cab, before, not behind, but you can see it. It's just stupid loud!!! What's on yours and how's it ran?

[The Big Green]

Almost left this out, carrier bearing is directly behind cab, 2x3 around it for upper 4-link bars, and valves on both sides, 8 valves. No room to go back further with the pipes. Any more stuff and it would be to superfluous.

[68laydout]

Still working on the backhalf and have not run the exhaust yet. I'm going to punch some 3.5" holes in the 2x4 crossmember I have right behind the cab and dump right before the axle with one-chamber flows. I would be more worried about the deafening drone you will have than it being loud.

[The Big Green]

Yea, mine is pretty loud in the cab with the pipes right under me. I think it's also the turndowns being maybe an inch from the pavement when laying out lol.

[XXL]

Originally Posted by The Big Green

I think it's low enough...

Sounds like you've answered your own question (??)

[N2TRUX]

Back on topic please.

[The Big Green]

No problem, and thanks.

[68laydout]

Get a bid on doing the BD and decide for yourself. I can't see it taking more than 8 hours and $500. So is 1" worth $500 to you? For the exhaust, just move your valves or whatever is keeping it from being run back. Rotate your turndowns 45 degrees outward and extend them to the axle. Also, try to get the mufflers out from under the cab. Doing those three things will make a noticeable difference.

[The Big Green]

First off $500 isn't bad, if it's that I'd go ahead and do it. I dropped mine the other day and broke the pinch weld on passenger side, back of the cab. It's still there but loose and now has a hole. The hole may have been there but I helped it show up more. As for the mufflers, they will have to stay in place but I will run the pipes on back.

[C10Sim]

I dont want to hijack this thread but Im wanting to lay rockers aswell. If I lower my body mounts would I have to trim pinch welds and would the under floor be hitting the frame?

[The Big Green]

Not sure about the floor, but yes, the mounts are moved down an inch. Most people I talk to just heat and fold the pinch welds insted of cut.

[68laydout]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

I dont want to hijack this thread but Im wanting to lay rockers aswell. If I lower my body mounts would I have to trim pinch welds and would the under floor be hitting the frame?

Simply chop the pinch off and lower the body mounts 1" or so. The floor should be 1/4" from the frame at that point. I put some 1/4" rubber bushings between the floor and the frame and they are snug.

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by 68laydout

Also, the bottom part of the front bed side will still be half an inch or so from the ground. If you want the bed flat out you will have to chop the rockers and raise the floor.

I not really understanding what your saying here?

Do you mean the rear cab corner section will not be on the ground?

[68laydout]

The bottom of the front bed side is not even with the bottom of the rockers. I dont have any pics to show you, but the bottom front portion of the bed is like 1/2" higher than the rocker. I was just stating that the bed would not lay flat after cutting the pinch off. It bugs me the hell out of me, but I'm not cutting more rocker off and raising the floor for 1/2".

I used a cut off wheel to cut the pinch off. Tried a sawzall and the rockers were just too flimsy on mine and bounced around. Not sure about bending them back. That sounds like a lazy way of doing it, but I guess it would work. Mine look clean with the straping and the rockers now have some support and protection.

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by 68laydout

The bottom of the front bed side is not even with the bottom of the rockers. I dont have any pics to show you, but the bottom front portion of the bed is like 1/2" higher than the rocker. I was just stating that the bed would not lay flat after cutting the pinch off. It bugs me the hell out of me, but I'm not cutting more rocker off and raising the floor for 1/2".

I used a cut off wheel to cut the pinch off. Tried a sawzall and the rockers were just too flimsy on mine and bounced around. Not sure about bending them back. That sounds like a lazy way of doing it, but I guess it would work. Mine look clean with the straping and the rockers now have some support and protection.

How about bodydroping the bed? Would that work?

[68laydout]

Sure, but the body lines will be off unless you drop the cab with it. It's only a half an inch or so, but it is noticeable.

[C10Sim]

Originally Posted by 68laydout

Sure, but the body lines will be off unless you drop the cab with it. It's only a half an inch or so, but it is noticeable.

Now I see where your coming from...So basically to get the bed on the ground flush you would have to cut the rocker half an inch and do a half an inch bodydrop to cab on the floors?

[68laydout]

Originally Posted by C10Sim

Now I see where your coming from...So basically to get the bed on the ground flush you would have to cut the rocker half an inch and do a half an inch bodydrop to cab on the floors?

Yup and then its just the front portion of the bed that lays. The front and rear bumpers are even higher. You'll have to door it if you want it all flat out.

[C10Sim]

Does anybody have a thread that has this process or similar.