New to '47-'59 trucks

[1MADTEXAN]

Originally Posted by americanmusc1e

what kind of Oil does this thing take??? (1955 stovebolt 235 for those of you who didn't read the above posts) Detergent or Non-detergent???? or does it matter????

On an engine that old that hasn't been running for a long time I'd stay away from oil with detergents in it. Not sure if it's an 'old mechanics' tale' but I've always been told that the detergents might eventually cause any deposits to break loose and get stuck somewhere they shouldn't be.

[av8tr33337]

On the flip side of the coin from the previous post. A mechanic I used to work with told me a tale of a guy who bought and old vehicle and for some reason that escapes me at the moment, he pulled the intake off and the whole top end was caked with dirt and dried gunk. He asked an old mechanic if he should try to clean it up before he replaced the intake. The old mechanic told him not to touch it or disturb the dirt. He told him to put the intake back on and start running high deturgent motor oil through it, changing it often. He did this for a few months and when he removed the intake again it was clean as a whistle. Sounds far fetched I know. Not sure if this helps or muddies the water even more. You always here stange stuff like that and are never sure whether to believe it or not. I guess the best thing would be to ere on the side of caution like the previous poster suggested. Your call.

[americanmusc1e]

YouTube - 1949 chevrolet 3800 startup

the truck is making some noise on startup (not as noticeable or loud as it is on the video) and the valves sound like they need to be adjusted.

I'll post more video's later, but life is getting busy for me,

My 383 for my '70 is supposed to be ready tomorrow. so I'll be busy with that this week.

[Bigblue29]

I run a standard 10W-30 in my '50 with a 235. Works great. I did it because it has a thinner starting viscosity, but the protection of a 30weight oil. The old timer I bought it from said that he had been doing it for years...

I'd like to hear what others think of this theory- from everything else I have read it sounds good to me!

[Bigblue29]

Have you checked the fan blades for clearance issues near the radiator and crank? Those are other possible areas- Along with the valves. Mine actually had a bad water pump, with bent (tweaked) fan blades. I replaced the pump, adjusted the fan blades. And it reduced the noise. Now, I am left with a very slight tick from the valves.

Good luck, gotta love these old trucks!

[Fred T]

Sounds good. The rattle makes me wonder if you're getting oil to the valves.

For right now I would run a single viscosity non-detergent oil. Either SAE 30 or 40. Most farms stores will have it.

Also, start looking for an oil filter canister. See the photo for mine. The engine is set up to run with a bypass system filter, meaning that only about 10% of the oil goes through the filter each time. Not the best, but better than no filter. I wouldn't start running detergent oil until there's a filter to catch the junk.

These engines were designed to have the oil changed when the engine is at operating temperature. That way more crud goes out with the oil.

The 235 can be modified for a full flow filter. It's an easy job, but prefer doing it with the engine apart so metal chips don't end up in the oil galley. Instructions are on the Stovebolt tip pages.

With a filter, I have had good luck running 20W-50, but it does get a little thick when the temp drops into the teens. I don't think you will have that problem.

One easy change that can be done is to swap out the differential pumpkin for better gears. Your truck should have the HO-72 differential, 10 bolt cover full-floater. Find a pumpkin from another 10 bolt full-floater from a HO-52 (3/4 ton). GM used this differential through 1972. Standard gears were 4.56, but there are a few with 4.10. It's a direct swap, all you will need are gaskets and seals.