Managing coil/starter/temp guage wires... - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**COBALT** · 03-16-2003, 11:12 PM

What do you guys do to stash them out of the way, or at least make it look less like a rat's nest under the hood?

I've got all of my wires loose, and I want to rewire the new carb, coil, starter, temp guage, and detent switch so everything looks nice. Any pointers/advice?

orange72 · 03-17-2003, 12:30 AM

second that

**'68OrangeSunshine** · 03-17-2003, 05:26 AM

Eastwood sells this non-sticky 7/8"w vinyl tape, just like GM used. Bundle all your lines like the original and go to town. Looks like a million bucks, if done right.

Chip327 · 03-17-2003, 06:23 AM

I use an inexpensive reinforced plastic tubing that has a split down the side of it for tucking wires into the inside. It isn t good near extreme heat like really close to an exhaust manifod but it gives a showroom finish to the wiring under the hood. Cant remember the actual name for it but always get it at the parts place (Lordco or Napa). Available in different colors usually too.

PanelDeland · 03-17-2003, 09:39 AM

I second chip and use the little plastic hoop style mounts to keep it neat.I think I have about $8.00-10.00 in all the detail work for my underhood wiring.

**COBALT** · 03-17-2003, 11:59 AM

Oh, so you guys used the split tube stuff...did you drill holes in your firewall to mount the brackets? In other words what did you do around the hump to get the wiring to your coil and your temp sensor on the block? I've noticed my most difficult spot will be around the back of the motor where I have about 20 acres of open space...

Thanks-

Terry S · 03-22-2003, 11:47 PM

That stuff is called convaluted tubing. I used it as well and just wire tied it up wherever was handy.

Also, a trick that I learned years ago, if you're looking for something a little different, wherever you have a single wire running to a terminal (coil, alternator or whatever), wrap it numerous times around a pencil, then slide the pencil out before you hook the wire up. You end up with wires that are coiled up like a phone cord.

Blue Beard · 03-23-2003, 11:01 AM

I like the coil up idea..............I generally either shortened the wire or put the extra where it couldn't be seen.

adamls · 03-23-2003, 03:18 PM

If you have access to Swagelok tubing, like I do, then use stainless steel tubing. My dad used it on his car, even used it on his spark plug wires. Expensive but makes it look nice.

72MARIO · 03-23-2003, 03:20 PM

I think the tape looks best.

Blue Beard · 03-23-2003, 04:52 PM

adamls

How about some shots of the stainless ...

adamls · 03-24-2003, 10:59 AM

My dad lives quite a ways from me, I do not have access to the car or my dad's expertise. I wished I did, it would help with my rebuild.

Lippyp · 03-24-2003, 11:45 AM

If you're gonna tape wrap it make sure you use the non adhesive stuff that sticks to itself. If you just use standard sticky insulating tape it looks like cr*p after a year or so as it attracts dust and starts to come unstuck. I'm probably gonna go with the split tubing, I also intend putting short lengths of heat shrink tubing over most of the wire to wire connectors to secure and protect them.

PanelDeland · 03-24-2003, 12:25 PM

With the split tube stuff and small clamps I usually use the original holes.There are holes where the original wire was run thru a rubber cover.

**COBALT** · 03-24-2003, 02:05 PM

Well, I ended up using the split tube stuff. I picked up 3 8' lengths at NAPA. I used 3/8" so I could tuck it away along the top of the fire-wall, and between the radiator and the support. I got rubber coated clips to tie it down, and fit them in wherever I had a sheet metal screw or bolt that was a small enough shank to fit through the clips. I couldn't find a 3/8" T to split the conduit from the firewall connection to the coil, and to the starter, so I went to the hardware store and got a 3/8" copper pipe "T" (you normally use for sweating copper pipe). The conduit fit PERFECTLY into the T. I discretely used black electrical tape to bind the ends werever I cut the conduit, at the T, and every 6-8" so it would stay together as I tucked it away, and so the wires don't start to peak out over time.

I ended up having to rewire the coil, the starter, the temp guage wire, the wire to the proportioning valve, the new wires for the electric choke on the carb, the alternator, and the new detent switch.

The trickiest part was wiring the new electric choke. The - went to the carb choke housing, but the power had to be somehow routed to the circuit box under the dash. I used some smaller clips under the valve cover hold-downs to route the wire away from the carb. I then put a small clip under the - side of the coil, and used that to route the wire to the conduit for the coil. From there it passed through the T to the firewall, and from there to under the dash.

It's turning out really cool. I'll snap some pics when I have it all done...

Thanks guys.

KEH · 03-26-2003, 10:05 PM

Any pics yet?

**COBALT** · 03-28-2003, 02:15 PM

I'll post some tonight. I wish I had a decent camera!

03-16-2003, 11:12 PM	#1
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Managing coil/starter/temp guage wires... What do you guys do to stash them out of the way, or at least make it look less like a rat's nest under the hood? I've got all of my wires loose, and I want to rewire the new carb, coil, starter, temp guage, and detent switch so everything looks nice. Any pointers/advice? __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

03-17-2003, 12:30 AM	#2
orange72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2000 Location: huntington,texas,united states Posts: 399	second that __________________ 1972 chevy long bed. Currently under construction!! Bagged, 383/700r4.

03-17-2003, 05:26 AM	#3
'68OrangeSunshine Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2002 Location: Tucson, AZ USA Posts: 7,202	TAPE Eastwood sells this non-sticky 7/8"w vinyl tape, just like GM used. Bundle all your lines like the original and go to town. Looks like a million bucks, if done right.

03-17-2003, 06:23 AM	#4
Chip327 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada Posts: 45	I use an inexpensive reinforced plastic tubing that has a split down the side of it for tucking wires into the inside. It isn t good near extreme heat like really close to an exhaust manifod but it gives a showroom finish to the wiring under the hood. Cant remember the actual name for it but always get it at the parts place (Lordco or Napa). Available in different colors usually too. __________________ CHIP327 67 GMC Pickup

03-17-2003, 09:39 AM	#5
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	I second chip and use the little plastic hoop style mounts to keep it neat.I think I have about $8.00-10.00 in all the detail work for my underhood wiring. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

03-17-2003, 11:59 AM	#6
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Oh, so you guys used the split tube stuff...did you drill holes in your firewall to mount the brackets? In other words what did you do around the hump to get the wiring to your coil and your temp sensor on the block? I've noticed my most difficult spot will be around the back of the motor where I have about 20 acres of open space... Thanks- __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

03-22-2003, 11:47 PM	#7
Terry S Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Haysville, KS Posts: 118	That stuff is called convaluted tubing. I used it as well and just wire tied it up wherever was handy. Also, a trick that I learned years ago, if you're looking for something a little different, wherever you have a single wire running to a terminal (coil, alternator or whatever), wrap it numerous times around a pencil, then slide the pencil out before you hook the wire up. You end up with wires that are coiled up like a phone cord. __________________ I can do all things thru Christ, but he evidently doesn't want me to beat that Camaro light to light....

03-23-2003, 11:01 AM	#8
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	I like the coil up idea..............I generally either shortened the wire or put the extra where it couldn't be seen. __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

03-23-2003, 03:18 PM	#9
adamls Gotta Startem Early Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Amarillo, TX, USA Posts: 364	If you have access to Swagelok tubing, like I do, then use stainless steel tubing. My dad used it on his car, even used it on his spark plug wires. Expensive but makes it look nice. __________________ 67 SWB In Progress, one piece at a time, maybe 3 years I will be finished

03-23-2003, 03:20 PM	#10
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,052	I think the tape looks best. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

03-23-2003, 04:52 PM	#11
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	adamls How about some shots of the stainless ... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

03-24-2003, 10:59 AM	#12
adamls Gotta Startem Early Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Amarillo, TX, USA Posts: 364	Pictures My dad lives quite a ways from me, I do not have access to the car or my dad's expertise. I wished I did, it would help with my rebuild. __________________ 67 SWB In Progress, one piece at a time, maybe 3 years I will be finished

03-24-2003, 11:45 AM	#13
Lippyp English Chevy Owner Join Date: May 2002 Location: Shropshire, UK/ Lot, France Posts: 1,848	If you're gonna tape wrap it make sure you use the non adhesive stuff that sticks to itself. If you just use standard sticky insulating tape it looks like cr*p after a year or so as it attracts dust and starts to come unstuck. I'm probably gonna go with the split tubing, I also intend putting short lengths of heat shrink tubing over most of the wire to wire connectors to secure and protect them. __________________ Phil '67 C10 long fleet. 350/TH350, 4 bbl Carter, K&N, Dual exhaust, loads of stuff coming soon 2001 S10 Blazer Daily Driver, bone stock 4 door 4x4 with manual transmission

03-24-2003, 12:25 PM	#14
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,993	With the split tube stuff and small clamps I usually use the original holes.There are holes where the original wire was run thru a rubber cover. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

03-24-2003, 02:05 PM	#15
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	Well, I ended up using the split tube stuff. I picked up 3 8' lengths at NAPA. I used 3/8" so I could tuck it away along the top of the fire-wall, and between the radiator and the support. I got rubber coated clips to tie it down, and fit them in wherever I had a sheet metal screw or bolt that was a small enough shank to fit through the clips. I couldn't find a 3/8" T to split the conduit from the firewall connection to the coil, and to the starter, so I went to the hardware store and got a 3/8" copper pipe "T" (you normally use for sweating copper pipe). The conduit fit PERFECTLY into the T. I discretely used black electrical tape to bind the ends werever I cut the conduit, at the T, and every 6-8" so it would stay together as I tucked it away, and so the wires don't start to peak out over time. I ended up having to rewire the coil, the starter, the temp guage wire, the wire to the proportioning valve, the new wires for the electric choke on the carb, the alternator, and the new detent switch. The trickiest part was wiring the new electric choke. The - went to the carb choke housing, but the power had to be somehow routed to the circuit box under the dash. I used some smaller clips under the valve cover hold-downs to route the wire away from the carb. I then put a small clip under the - side of the coil, and used that to route the wire to the conduit for the coil. From there it passed through the T to the firewall, and from there to under the dash. It's turning out really cool. I'll snap some pics when I have it all done... Thanks guys. __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.



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03-26-2003, 10:05 PM	#16
KEH Better late than never Join Date: Dec 2001 Location: Columbus, IN Posts: 324	Any pics yet? __________________ 1970 C/10 SWB Stepside

03-28-2003, 02:15 PM	#17
COBALT Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2001 Location: Seattle, WA, USA Posts: 5,817	I'll post some tonight. I wish I had a decent camera! __________________ '69 3/4 ton C20 2wd-350ci/TH400 '69 3/4 ton Custom 20 2wd-350ci/4sp Manual '99 2wd 5.7 Chevy Tahoe Seattle, WA.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.