Best way to weld in a fuel door

[1964C10]

This is a little ahead in my build but I got my fuel door from the pullityard today, came from a 93 chevy 1500. I just checked and the radius of the bed side is identical or at least when I laid it up against the inside of my fender it looked almost perfect. My question is now what is the best way to weld it in? as a rectangular/square patch panel or cut the fuel door right around the edge and then weld it it in where the door basically hits the bed side? The patch panel seems to me that it would be the hardest as far as not getting too much heat into the side. On the other hand, the other way you would have to make sure that it lined up perfectly so that the door doesn't sink or rise out of the bed side. Does my question make sense? No urgency on this, I just can't stop thinking about this truck

[Captainfab]

I don't claim to be a body man but I've welded my share of sheetmetal. The way I would do it is cut it in a circular shap, but say about 1/2 inch from the edge of the recess for the door. make sure you have a good fitup to the bedside and start tacking away, skipping around as you normally would when welding sheetmetal. That's just how I'd do it.....someone like Alan may have a better method.

[Alan's Classic]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I don't claim to be a body man but I've welded my share of sheetmetal. The way I would do it is cut it in a circular shap, but say about 1/2 inch from the edge of the recess for the door. make sure you have a good fitup to the bedside and start tacking away, skipping around as you normally would when welding sheetmetal. That's just how I'd do it.....someone like Alan may have a better method.

I agree, but will add this. Are you going to butt weld or lap weld it in? I would butt weld it. If you don't have much welding experience then I might consider a lap. The amount of filler would be minimal to make it all flow together. I can't remember if yours is a fleet side. If so are you running side mouldings?

[GruntMoanCough]

I agree, square edges are trickier to hide, IMO.

[1964C10]

Thanks John, Alan and Ron! That is really helpful. I am planning on doing the butt weld, I have limited experience but I have welded some sheet metal so I think I will be ok there. Why the 1/2 inch lip? Wouldn't it be easier to weld on the rim/edge? or are you doing this to make sure the door fits flush?

Mine is a fleetside and it did not come with mouldings. I am not planning on putting any on simply because they are fairly expensive and I need money elsewhere on the truck

[Captainfab]

I recommended the 1/2 inch because no matter what, you are going to get warpage/distortion. IMO it would be better to have that warpage take place away from the nice even and straight edge. That way you don't have to try and straighten that edge back out to fit the contour of the door. Then after you're done welding, hammer and dolly your weld the best you can. Then that should require minimal filler to smooth it back out nicely.....plus you'll be working to that edge that is still straight and even.

[1964C10]

Thanks John, that makes great sense! I have my plan will post pictures in the future!

[GruntMoanCough]

Just to add, a lap weld would give more strength (less flexing), since you're opening and closing that door.

[1964C10]

Originally Posted by GruntMoanCough

Just to add, a lap weld would give more strength (less flexing), since you're opening and closing that door.

Thanks Ron. The truck it out of had an even bigger single sheet panel then what it is going into so I think I will be ok. Guess we'll find out if the paint starts to crack