2 Questions - Could headers cause starting problem/ Running truck with no Thermostat

[eastcoastcivil]

I have a 67 C20 with a 350 4 bolt in it and Hedman headers. When I drive for any period of time where the truck will heat up and then turn it off I have to wait till it cools down a bit to start it. I would love to be able to turn the key and go but when I do there is no response...not even a click. Could my headers be heating up the solenoid and causing it not to start? Maybe I need to fab a heat shield! Anyone ever had this problem?

My truck was overheating a bit so I decided to replace the thermostat. I bought one at Crappy Tire and installed it last saturday...it didn't seem to be working since the truck was still running kind of hot so I took it out completely. I went for a drive on the highway and then into the city and it seemed to run around 180 degrees. Is it a good idea to run the truck without the thermostat? Any pros or cons? Things I should watch for?

[hugger6933]

your problem is quite common, it is called heat soak. The pipes are so close to the starter that it gets plenty hot . There are several people that sell heat sheilds. You could add a remote[ford] solenoid to your truck to sovle thaat problem. Jim

[69GMCLonghorn]

I have a couple of opinions on both issues:

1) Thermostat: You're not hurting anything per se, but you are masking the actual problem. If you're still running at 180° with no T-stat, you are plugged up somewhere. Get the radiator looked at by a pro and I'll bet dollars to donuts it's plugged. Then drop in a 160° T-stat and you'll be good to go. These trucks shouldn't/don't need to run any hotter than that.

2) I'm running a fairly built 350 with full tube headers and no heat shield. I can drive it all day in 100° weather with no heat soak. As stated above, heat shields are good, but I've found that if it's at that stage, replace the positive battery cable and route it as best you can away from the headers (my cable is about 2" from the headers). In terms of the cable, get a 1 or 0 gauge bad-a**, best you can afford cable. This really should solve your problem. If it doesn't, buy a new starter.

[Sinister]

Like it's been said a remote solenoid will solve the heat soak problem. First pic is normal setup, second is with the remote solenoid. If you have HEI it'll be a little different, coil won't be wired up.

[BHyatt]

I have used the Ford solenoid trick myself to prevent this same problem.

How hot was the truck running with the thermostat installed?

[Chevyholic]

Originally Posted by Sinister

Like it's been said a remote solenoid will solve the heat soak problem. First pic is normal setup, second is with the remote solenoid. If you have HEI it'll be a little different, coil won't be wired up.

I used the remote solenoid with limited success. In the hot Dallas Summers I would still *occasionally* experience heat soak issues. It wasn't until I implemented the remote solenoid coupled with a mini starter did I finally overcome this issue. Obviously, start with the solenoid first, as it is significantly cheaper, but if you still have problems, you may want to explore the mini starter. Good luck!

[special-K]

A healthy starter will not be affected by the heat soak.Once the starter starts drawing more from aged windings it will act like a bad starter before it`s time when it gets hot.I went a whole summer with this problem.It doesn`t help to have a leak at the collector,either.I carried a Gott water cooler and a Big Gulp cup and would toss water on the starter to fire it right up.It helps to open the hood and let the heat exit.Under hood temperature actually climbs a bit when you first shut the engine down and outer parts get hotter.i`ve never used a heat shield but I understand they help.