AC Question - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Dads72 · 03-31-2003, 08:26 PM

Have a 72 w/factory air. All the parts are off, but I still have them.
Have seen some replacement parts that are R-12 exclusive.
Should I try to put the factory stuff back, or should I shop for an aftermarket AC system?
Something else to consider - Not sure how some of the brackets will install on an aftermarket intake. Also not sure if the factory brackets would work if I decide to install headers or different exhaust manifolds in the future.
Thanks

cdowns · 03-31-2003, 10:13 PM

well if i were you and had my a/c apart and was going to repair/replace it i'd go with a system that used either R134 or 1 of the other replacement gases because if you can get the R12 you have to pay out the arse for it and sooner than later it won't be available at all

krue · 03-31-2003, 10:17 PM

The guy that fixed my fridge charged $4 an ounce for R-12! That could get expensive quick!

Dads72 · 03-31-2003, 10:28 PM

Here's the deal -
I have all the replacement parts for factory AC - multiples in some cases. The truck came with factory AC, so all the duct work is in place.
Don't know how many of the old parts are useable, as some should not be exposed to the elements due to rust, etc. ??
Received a new parts catalog today that listed the liquid hoses and muffler assembly. It designated that it "Uses R-12 only".
If I need those replacement parts, I'm locked in to only using R-12. Unless I win the lottery, I can't afford that.
I don't want to replace factory parts (since it came with AC), but I don't want to be stuck with R-12.
What to do? I want to be cool - like the truck.
Thanks

Class of 69 · 03-31-2003, 10:29 PM

Krue is right. If you don't have your own R 12, and the knowhow to charge the system yourself it will cost $200.00 just for the freon!!! Go with the R 134A. Since the system is open, there are conversion kits to change it to 134A. You SHOULD be able to use most of the original parts. As for being open to the air, yes moisture from humidity can cause corrosion in the compressor, condensor, and evaporator. If your planning on reuseing these parts, they should be flushed with A/C system cleaner. The conversion will supply a orifice valve and accumulator to replace the POA valve, among other things. I can't remember where I saw this conversion, but it might have been at Classic Industries. They have a web site. Yup, just found it. Two kits. The simple one replaces the troublesome POA valve with a clutch cycling pressure system...$100.00 The other replaces the evaporator,POA valve, reciever/drier and lines to an orifice system..$325.00. These systems are designed for our year trucks, and retains the stock compressor and condensor.

Blue Beard · 03-31-2003, 10:29 PM

While this is down, you may as well check the diverter box under the dash......

The air selector flap usually breaks.

I just replaced mine with a new. Some members were able to epoxy them. Mine was too broken for repair.

If you need to replace, PM me for address of dealership for almost 1/2 price.........

jhow66 · 03-31-2003, 10:36 PM

You can use 134 with the orginal stuff. I had to put a new compressor on mine andf changed it over. I put new dryer and expansion valve and changed the o-ring to the ones foe 134.

Dads72 · 03-31-2003, 10:36 PM

Blue Beard. Thanks for the offer. Think it's time to replace the box regardless.
I'll get back to you.
Thanks!
While we're on this thread - If I go with an aftermarket AC set up, can I still use my factory dash outlets (inlets?). In other words, if the truck is already set up for AC, can I still use some of the factory stuff, or does it all have to be under dash, etc. ?
Thanks yet again.

krue · 03-31-2003, 10:38 PM

I am trying to figure out how to mate the factory air on my 70 GMC (missing compressor and condenser) to the a/c out of a locked up s-10. If I can figure it out I'll post it for interested parties.

May just be a pipe dream, but you gotta have a/c in south Mississippi from March to November.

krue · 03-31-2003, 10:41 PM

BTW I can't remember the last time I was right!

Thanks class of 69!

Project1970 · 03-31-2003, 11:11 PM

I'm pretty sure some of the aftermarket air companies offer kits that will work with a factory-air truck...and they're actually somewhat competitive with a complete tear-down and rebuild of a factory setup, especially when you consider that they're more compact and higher performance (from what I hear).

Whenever I have about $1000, and I've already got headers and a cam in my truck, and not much else to do with the $1000...I'll yank out all of my original air stuff and put in a Vintage Air or some other aftermarket setup. My original stuff works, but I'm down to one can of Freon left and it's still got a bit of a leak, I believe...

Hutch · 03-31-2003, 11:27 PM

Go with an aftermarket system. They will work a lot better.
My truck a/c was complete with just a bad compressor.
After the rebuild with new a/c compressor,dryer,expansion valve duct hoses, diverter box and converted to r134A it cools like a 1971 unit.
It really is not that cool.
The big thing was getting the system flushed,converted and charged.
This was required for a warranty on the compressor
After installing all the parts at apoximately $400. It was another
$400 for the flush charge convert and refill.
Makes the price of a new unit seem resonable.
If I were to do it again I would have an aftermarket installed by a professional a/c technician and be done with it.
I did not have to buy any hoses or other major parts.
A good aftermarket a/c unit is one item that will increase the value of your truck.

Have fun

03-31-2003, 08:26 PM	#1
Dads72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 427	AC Question Have a 72 w/factory air. All the parts are off, but I still have them. Have seen some replacement parts that are R-12 exclusive. Should I try to put the factory stuff back, or should I shop for an aftermarket AC system? Something else to consider - Not sure how some of the brackets will install on an aftermarket intake. Also not sure if the factory brackets would work if I decide to install headers or different exhaust manifolds in the future. Thanks

03-31-2003, 10:13 PM	#2
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	well if i were you and had my a/c apart and was going to repair/replace it i'd go with a system that used either R134 or 1 of the other replacement gases because if you can get the R12 you have to pay out the arse for it and sooner than later it won't be available at all __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

03-31-2003, 10:17 PM	#3
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	The guy that fixed my fridge charged $4 an ounce for R-12! That could get expensive quick! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-31-2003, 10:29 PM	#5
Class of 69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Stillwater MN Posts: 1,166	Krue is right. If you don't have your own R 12, and the knowhow to charge the system yourself it will cost $200.00 just for the freon!!! Go with the R 134A. Since the system is open, there are conversion kits to change it to 134A. You SHOULD be able to use most of the original parts. As for being open to the air, yes moisture from humidity can cause corrosion in the compressor, condensor, and evaporator. If your planning on reuseing these parts, they should be flushed with A/C system cleaner. The conversion will supply a orifice valve and accumulator to replace the POA valve, among other things. I can't remember where I saw this conversion, but it might have been at Classic Industries. They have a web site. Yup, just found it. Two kits. The simple one replaces the troublesome POA valve with a clutch cycling pressure system...$100.00 The other replaces the evaporator,POA valve, reciever/drier and lines to an orifice system..$325.00. These systems are designed for our year trucks, and retains the stock compressor and condensor. __________________ 69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still.. Last edited by Class of 69; 03-31-2003 at 10:44 PM.

03-31-2003, 10:29 PM	#6
Blue Beard Registered User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Washington State Posts: 8,834	While this is down, you may as well check the diverter box under the dash...... The air selector flap usually breaks. I just replaced mine with a new. Some members were able to epoxy them. Mine was too broken for repair. If you need to replace, PM me for address of dealership for almost 1/2 price......... __________________ 1970 Chev CST 2003 Harley Fatboy 1975 Chevrolet Step Van 1956 Chev Bel Air 1977 Blazer 2WD For Sale $3000.00 1978 Blazer 2WD For Sale $7000.00 1978 Silverado 2005 Monte Carlo

03-31-2003, 10:28 PM	#4
Dads72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Posts: 427	Here's the deal - I have all the replacement parts for factory AC - multiples in some cases. The truck came with factory AC, so all the duct work is in place. Don't know how many of the old parts are useable, as some should not be exposed to the elements due to rust, etc. ?? Received a new parts catalog today that listed the liquid hoses and muffler assembly. It designated that it "Uses R-12 only". If I need those replacement parts, I'm locked in to only using R-12. Unless I win the lottery, I can't afford that. I don't want to replace factory parts (since it came with AC), but I don't want to be stuck with R-12. What to do? I want to be cool - like the truck. Thanks

03-31-2003, 10:36 PM	#7
jhow66 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Knoxville Tenn. Posts: 3,058	You can use 134 with the orginal stuff. I had to put a new compressor on mine andf changed it over. I put new dryer and expansion valve and changed the o-ring to the ones foe 134. __________________ 56 Chevy Bel-Air 2dr. HT (purchased new) 71 Chevy Cheyenne SWB PU (502HO) 65 GMC short bed step--work in progress and my gofer

03-31-2003, 10:38 PM	#9
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	I am trying to figure out how to mate the factory air on my 70 GMC (missing compressor and condenser) to the a/c out of a locked up s-10. If I can figure it out I'll post it for interested parties. May just be a pipe dream, but you gotta have a/c in south Mississippi from March to November. __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-31-2003, 10:41 PM	#10
krue Designated A-hole! Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: South Mississippi Posts: 36,450	BTW I can't remember the last time I was right! Thanks class of 69! __________________ "If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is!" Being stupid ain't illegal. We're Still Debt Free Except for the House!!! www.daveramsey.com 70 GMC SWB Stepside project "Green Booger" soon to be 6.0l/4l80e 93 S-10 "Poppaw's Truck"

03-31-2003, 11:11 PM	#11
Project1970 14.1 @ 96MPH Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Mesa, AZ Posts: 2,811	I'm pretty sure some of the aftermarket air companies offer kits that will work with a factory-air truck...and they're actually somewhat competitive with a complete tear-down and rebuild of a factory setup, especially when you consider that they're more compact and higher performance (from what I hear). Whenever I have about $1000, and I've already got headers and a cam in my truck, and not much else to do with the $1000...I'll yank out all of my original air stuff and put in a Vintage Air or some other aftermarket setup. My original stuff works, but I'm down to one can of Freon left and it's still got a bit of a leak, I believe... __________________ Project1970 - LS1 Swap Complete!

03-31-2003, 11:27 PM	#12
Hutch Registered User Join Date: Oct 2001 Location: Grapevine, Tx. Posts: 2,142	Go with an aftermarket system. They will work a lot better. My truck a/c was complete with just a bad compressor. After the rebuild with new a/c compressor,dryer,expansion valve duct hoses, diverter box and converted to r134A it cools like a 1971 unit. It really is not that cool. The big thing was getting the system flushed,converted and charged. This was required for a warranty on the compressor After installing all the parts at apoximately $400. It was another $400 for the flush charge convert and refill. Makes the price of a new unit seem resonable. If I were to do it again I would have an aftermarket installed by a professional a/c technician and be done with it. I did not have to buy any hoses or other major parts. A good aftermarket a/c unit is one item that will increase the value of your truck. Have fun __________________ John Hutchison Grapevine,Texas 68 1/2 t swb 68 Mustang 69 Jaguar 71 1/2 t swb 88 Supra CompTs6m 93 Escort GT 2005 Corolla XRS



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