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Old 03-29-2003, 06:00 PM   #1
apstguy
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I'm not moving anywhere . . . Smoke stopped me

Today as I was coming home, I had the A/C on and the compresser was making funny noises. I got into town, & I smelt something funky. Smoke started coming from the hood & I check my temparature. I was fine. I knew it was my compressor. I pulled into a parking lot, let it cool for a while & poped my hood. My A/C compressor was green, yellow, and white and smoking. It smelled like .... I dunno! Rubber & ass or something! The thing also sprayed grease or oil around too. What is this stuff? I know the thing was going to go out eventually go out - it had always made a little extra noise. But just before summer!?!?!?!? Soooo... anyone have a working A/C compresser to sell me? Maybe some Freon? I heard someone had freon here not to long ago. Thanks for letting me vent my anger!
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Old 03-29-2003, 07:16 PM   #2
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I put a ounce of two of oil in mine every few years but there is no way to tell if that is why my 1984 still has it's factory compressor.

I am suprised yours did not lock up and throw the belt.
It clearly died. Save what's left and use it for your core though.

I can tell you one thing. Don't get a compressor at a Autozone if you are going to stick with R12.
I did a few years ago for my Z/28 and after putting three on from them (and charging them all with 4 cans of R12 each) I finally got one that was not locked up.
That would be waay expensive today.
You could go with a GM one but the price will kill you and it will probably be a rebuilt one too.

You are going to need a flush followed by 1 hour of vacumn or the new compressor will fail real quick.
You will also have to go with a new dryer but you will find that out as many places will not sell you a compressor without a new dryer.
I would first find out why the old compressor failed.
Was it cycling the compressor on and off?
The noises you mentioned tell me might have ran out of oil and something inside went.
If the freon was low then this can happen 'cause the freon carries the oil.
When was the last time you added any R12?
I bet you have a leak somewhere and that has GOT to be fixed first.
Now would be a real good time to go over to R134 as if I sold you the freon you would need 4 cans at the least. Thats' $140 without the shipping. Add $30 for the haz. fee to ship the stuff.
I would also need a copy of your license to buy the stuff.
I hate to say that but would you pay the EPA fine for me if something happened? Around $250,000?

Go with the R134 and you can get it even out there without the expense and the hassle.
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:03 PM   #3
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I got a used one from the junk yard (no telling how long it will last but is has really good compression)

My questions:

Do I really need a new dryer? (& what is its purpose?)

We had been told years ago it was dieing, but just would deal
with it when it happened

It is almost locked up - almost there - frosted the belt - something inside probably went

Freon probably wasn't low because it was recharged two years ago - I really don't think it has a leak

What do I need to convert to R134?

Can't I just reuse the freon I have? If I can't - why not?

Not only did this thing happen, my truck refused to start once I got it home It has been one hell of a day. My battery cable was really corroded & won't give good contact anymore. Grrr....
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Old 03-29-2003, 11:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
[i]

My questions:

Do I really need a new dryer? (& what is its purpose?)

Freon probably wasn't low because it was recharged two years ago - I really don't think it has a leak

What do I need to convert to R134?

Can't I just reuse the freon I have? If I can't - why not [/B]
You need a new dryer because the old one is full of debris and water that will kill the new compressor.
It's purpose is to take out the water in your system because water and freon when mixed together form a strong acid that will kill the compressor and everything else in your A/C system.
The debris in it comes from the breakup of the compressor internals that caused the compressor to fail.
That is two seperate reasons to get a new one and they don't cost that much anyway. That you can get at a Autozone or the like.When you get it...DO NOT take the seals off until the install. If it does not have seals on it when you buy it= run as fast as you can from that store.

You can reuse the freon you have if you have a collection machine that cleans and stores it long enough for you to fix the original problem. They run $1500 or so.
It is not a liquid you can pour out and pour back in. It is a high pressure gas. You have to change the compressor right?, You will lose all your freon.

To convert to R134, get a conversion kit from a parts place and read the directions. They all differ too much for me to tell you.

You will still have to flush the system to get the junk out. The old oil needs to go too so you can use the right oil for R134. The flush will do both for you.
You will also have to pull a vacumn on the lines for about a hour (if the vacumn pump is strong) or longer. This is done after you have all your parts installed and just before you add your new oil and freon. Miss this step and BYE-BYE whole system.

If you have never done this type of work I would highly recommend you hire it done. These systems are too carefully balanced to be throwing parts at.

I see far too many people miss the steps above and then bring it to me to fix.
When I tell them the cost they usually give up on it. EVERYTHING has to be replaced usually.

If you have anymore questions on this please ask. You need A/C where you live!
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Old 03-30-2003, 12:25 AM   #5
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Good job Mike,you answered all the questions i had about A/C systems.Was too shy to do a post though.getting the whole system gone through within the next couple months .i might pm you when the time comes for questions.



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Old 03-30-2003, 12:32 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by twistedmetal
Good job Mike,you answered all the questions i had about A/C systems.Was too shy to do a post though.getting the whole system gone through within the next couple months .i might pm you when the time comes for questions.
Hey, no problem!
PM, email or post them and I can probably help you on A/C stuff.
Thanks
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Old 03-30-2003, 01:02 AM   #7
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I converted to R134. Best money I spent for a cold A/C!!
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Old 03-30-2003, 02:54 AM   #8
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That answered all my questions! I am definitely going to hire this out - I want someone to blame if it fails again! This is alot to digest. I need A/C where I live? YOU BET - Black truck, black & chrome interior, in CA w/ 100+ weather . . . I toast! Just today sitting outside for an hour it got to high 90 inside.... I burnt myself on the seatbelt!

BTW: Thank you for answering my questions! This will probably answer everyone's questions an A/C for a while. I always noticed alot of 81-87 trucks original A/C is never fixed & left broken - now I see why . . . ouch!
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Last edited by apstguy; 03-30-2003 at 02:56 AM.
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Old 03-30-2003, 03:16 AM   #9
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apstguy,
Glad I could help indeed.
Get a few books off of eBay on car A/C systems and you won't have to hire your next one done.
Good luck!
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Old 03-30-2003, 04:02 AM   #10
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Re: I'm not moving anywhere . . . Smoke stopped me

Quote:
Originally posted by apstguy
I dunno! Rubber & ass
I think I read about enough of this post.
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Old 03-30-2003, 03:57 PM   #11
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A/C

I have no A/C : I have no problems...
Freon 12 is forbidden now in Europe
Just get the windows open , wear a short...

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Old 03-30-2003, 10:02 PM   #12
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Re: Re: I'm not moving anywhere . . . Smoke stopped me

Quote:
Originally posted by PHOENIX


I think I read about enough of this post.
Well, it smelt really bad ok! Not just rubber but other junk too. so STFU! j/k! Hehehe
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:11 AM   #13
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Update on today: Not only did this crap happen but even more today!!!! My weekend was shot to hell as I spent all weekend under my truck.

I installed the new battery cables this morning. I go to start the truck and :grrt: all I get is a noise. @%$&$!!!!!!!!!!!! So I charge the battery for a good 4 hours and try. :grrt: nothing more than before I charged it!!!! I take the battery out of my mom's Tahoe & try. Starts up no problem! So I narrowed it down to the battery. I take the old battery down to Kragens (where it was from & still had 3 years on the warrenty) 1/2 hour before they close. They test it and say it is a perfectly good battery. I tell them they are wrong. No effect. They put it on a charger for 10 min. I head over to Autozone just in case the battery doesn't work & buy a small Optima battery a few min. before they close. I get home and put in the old battery & NOTHING. I put in the new battery & PRESTO! It's alive! MUUHAHHHA!! By not it is 8pm. I stick my stero back in (took it out so no one could steal it last night b/c my alarm doesn't work without power) and my stereo works. Try to eject the CD, but it won't. I try to play the CD & it won't!!!! THE WORLD IS AGAINST ME!!!! So now tomorrow I have to go yell at the people at Kragen and tear into my CD player. Ugh. So how was your weekend???
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Old 03-31-2003, 12:36 AM   #14
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Man Tyler!!!
Who upstairs did you piss off??? LOL
The CD player won't do much eh?
Has it got a reset button on the back?
Sounds like a major electrical problem hit it.
I am trying to tie all your problems together but I don't know dude.
Your compressor gets so hot that it pukes and that would (?) get your condensor hot which could overheat your engine so it just about locks up too and you park it and try to start the now "tight" engine and the cables fry and your battery plates warp from all the current you were trying to pull. You try a boost with another battery and this sends a voltage spike that scrambles the CD player.
This works pretty good except you said your engine temp was good when the compressor went.
Heck I don't know.........
One thought though, before this A/C "event" happened, were your battery cables in decent shape? I mean did this change in them happen all at once?
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Old 03-31-2003, 03:14 AM   #15
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Mike76251 thanks for the info,I am attending an HVAC service class this week so I will be learning more about these systems.
But your info has brought up some good questions for my instructor. Not that you can't answer them but since I am at school I might as well ask them right? Well thanks again and if he can't answer them I will post a question if I come up with some.
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Old 03-31-2003, 04:45 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally posted by ironwood
Mike76251 thanks for the info,I am attending an HVAC service class this week so I will be learning more about these systems.
But your info has brought up some good questions for my instructor. Not that you can't answer them but since I am at school I might as well ask them right? Well thanks again and if he can't answer them I will post a question if I come up with some.
Dave
Heck Ironwood, If he can't answer them then I can get his job!!! LOL ! (Pay is too low for teachers)
I will be happy to answer anything I can for you.
I have never believed knowledge was "exclusive".

I will pass on another tip I have used over the years; (see if he knows this one) When you go to fill a cars' system with the little cans, get a bucket of hot tap water and put the can you are using in the hot water to speed the transfer of freon. It turns a 45 minute job into 15 minutes. Just be sure to put the end of the can that you have your hose hooked to UP. You don't want to pull any liqiud into your compressor while it is running.
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Old 03-31-2003, 05:30 AM   #17
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Oh no, this holding the can up thing, is this on 134 and r12???

My Dad always holds the can upside down and shakes it I am guessing he should not do this.
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Old 03-31-2003, 08:30 PM   #18
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I really think the world doesn't like me anymore. I pushed the reset button on the CD player, but it does jack. I'm just going to dissasemble it & take the CD out & pray it still works. I think what happened is when the compresser froze, it spiked the electrical system by putting alot of strain on the electromagnet. The battery cables where rather old, an I had know they needed replacement for a while. The problem with the CD player is it worked after the compressor puked. I think when I pulled it out I must have jarred it & got the CD stuck in there. I notice I have more juice in the electrical system. They tested my battery again, & said one of the cells died. Oh - with the new Optima battery, I got the small one because it was $60 less than the regular red top. Is this a good thing or do I need the full size battery?

Quote:
Originally posted by Mike76251
Man Tyler!!!
Who upstairs did you piss off??? LOL
The CD player won't do much eh?
Has it got a reset button on the back?
Sounds like a major electrical problem hit it.
I am trying to tie all your problems together but I don't know dude.
Your compressor gets so hot that it pukes and that would (?) get your condensor hot which could overheat your engine so it just about locks up too and you park it and try to start the now "tight" engine and the cables fry and your battery plates warp from all the current you were trying to pull. You try a boost with another battery and this sends a voltage spike that scrambles the CD player.
This works pretty good except you said your engine temp was good when the compressor went.
Heck I don't know.........
One thought though, before this A/C "event" happened, were your battery cables in decent shape? I mean did this change in them happen all at once?
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Old 03-31-2003, 09:12 PM   #19
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I have been asking around and from what I can tell is keeping with R-12 will be bad in the long run. I'm going to convert to R134. I'm going to take the compressor I bought from the junkyard & get my money back and get a rebuilt one. From what I am told, I will also need to get a new dryer (does a dryer have a different name? I can't find one in the LMC magazine) and a new oriface tube. I'll need to have it flushed, then vacuum tested. It will then be ready. From what I can tell ,this whole thing is going to cost somewhere from $200-$500. UGH! Do I have all my info correct?
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:02 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally posted by apstguy
I have been asking around and from what I can tell is keeping with R-12 will be bad in the long run. I'm going to convert to R134. I'm going to take the compressor I bought from the junkyard & get my money back and get a rebuilt one. From what I am told, I will also need to get a new dryer (does a dryer have a different name? I can't find one in the LMC magazine) and a new oriface tube. I'll need to have it flushed, then vacuum tested. It will then be ready. From what I can tell ,this whole thing is going to cost somewhere from $200-$500. UGH! Do I have all my info correct?
Is the junkyard compressor bad? You don't need to change compressors because you are going 134.
I have had too many bad rebuilt ones and all I can tell you is make sure it has a warranty and you save the reciept.
Good call on the 134. It will save you money now and later.
LMC probably doesn't sell dryers because everybody else does and they would find it hard to match the price.
They mainly sell resto stuff and this is not really resto.
You are not really testing it with the vacumn but pulling out all the moisture you can. It doesn't take much to ruin things quick.
The vacumn needs to stay on for at least 45 minutes.
I hope the shop you take it to will do that.
I am sorry I did not get this reply back sooner.
For some reason the new message indicator did not show and I just happen to stop by here.
You can email me if you need anything answered quick.
Good Luck once again
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:13 AM   #21
Mike76251
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Quote:
Originally posted by apstguy
I really think the world doesn't like me anymore. I pushed the reset button on the CD player, but it does jack. I'm just going to dissasemble it & take the CD out & pray it still works. I think what happened is when the compresser froze, it spiked the electrical system by putting alot of strain on the electromagnet. The battery cables where rather old, an I had know they needed replacement for a while. The problem with the CD player is it worked after the compressor puked. I think when I pulled it out I must have jarred it & got the CD stuck in there. I notice I have more juice in the electrical system. They tested my battery again, & said one of the cells died. Oh - with the new Optima battery, I got the small one because it was $60 less than the regular red top. Is this a good thing or do I need the full size battery?

Probably jilted or jangled one of those little plastic gears out of place in the CD player.
If the CD is wedged out of it's holder it won't eject or play.
Just take the top off and see what looks "off".
If you have the pinouts you can hook 12v up to it and really tell whats up.
I have one of those "little" Optimas in my truck. I love it.....stick with that and if you drain that thing you will not need a full size battery=you will need a forklift battery!!
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Old 04-01-2003, 06:21 AM   #22
Mike76251
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Quote:
Originally posted by CRRoy71
Oh no, this holding the can up thing, is this on 134 and r12???

My Dad always holds the can upside down and shakes it I am guessing he should not do this.
It is on both.
It works on either one.

Your Dad is one lucky dude.......if too much liquid goes down that line while he is shaking it will lock up the compressor.
A compressor can compress gas but not liquid.
Same thing happens to a engine when you get too much water in it. It locks up and throws a rod.

He is shaking it to get it go in faster BTW. Tell him to get some hot water and stick the can in. Upside down of course.
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Old 04-01-2003, 09:21 PM   #23
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I'm learning more and more. I have been told to get a rebuilt compressor by many people and I don't need to by others. The people who say get a rebuild one say because the old oil is really hard to get out. What is the best way to get the old oil out of the system? Just flush it???

I have an uncle that has the equiptment to do most of this stuff so I may not have to take it to a shop!!!! YAY! This may get fixed sooner than I thought! Thank you for all your replys Mike. Your a big help!
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Old 04-01-2003, 09:34 PM   #24
Mike76251
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Quote:
Originally posted by apstguy
I'm learning more and more. I have been told to get a rebuilt compressor by many people and I don't need to by others. The people who say get a rebuild one say because the old oil is really hard to get out. What is the best way to get the old oil out of the system? Just flush it???

I have an uncle that has the equiptment to do most of this stuff so I may not have to take it to a shop!!!! YAY! This may get fixed sooner than I thought! Thank you for all your replys Mike. Your a big help!
There is not too much oil to worry about. You need a very good flush on your system anyway to get the bits from the old compressor out and this should remove most, if not all, of the oil.

Glad you found a way to avoid the shop!
I have only been in a shop one time in my life.

If you need anymore help just post or email me
Happy I could help,
Mike
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