What is the best front suspension for a 1951 Chevy?

[Bob@ProAuto]

Originally Posted by Atomsplitter

Robin58

Ribin58,
I'm cheap, therfore you are correct, I'll put up with the wider turning radius. I was giving some information to possible buyers of these cheaper MII IFS's. Unfortunately the vendors don't divulge issues like this as they want to sell their product. It would be nice if they did because then you would consider them to be honest and possibly pay the little but more and buy their tubular a-arm kit.

Kabwe

Kabwe,
Thanks for the information on the strut rod eliminators, I'll have to research this for the future.

Atomsplitter , I can't verify if you have an early Fatman IFS or not. It almost looks like an early (early to mid 80's) Heidt's kit. But I do know a little about the Mustang II based suspensions. The strut rods are definitely an aftermarket set.

On the original Ford Mustang II design, it like hinges on a door. The lower control arm bushing is in the same line and plane as the strut rod bushing. If the hinges on a door aren't in line, it can break, typically at the jamb. You should be able to take a 1/2 piece of all thread and slide in the lower arm bushing and have it intersect the center of the strut rod bushing. From the picture, and it could just be the angle of it, yours looks like it is out of that line.

There was a company years ago that had a problem with the factory strut rod brackets ripping off of the frame, so someone came up with a bushing end replacement strut rod.

As far as strut-less lower arms, there have been a few documented cases on failures. Some companies make arms that are narrower in spread (front to rear) than Ford's from lower control arm bushing to strut rod bushing. Some make then as wide. Material being used varies also. As far as I know, some manufacturer's are making their own arms while others are importing then in. I can state that ours are made about 40 ft. from my office.

But, what I've seen on these could be the builder/installer fault, as well. Did they actually read the instructions and follow the directions? If they had a question, did they call the manufacturer? Some companies have a few pieces that weld to the crossmember that the bolt goes through. Anyone who welds knows that it can be extremely difficult to weld 2 tubes together and get 1 bolt to slide through. Experience with welding is key. Heat makes parts move (warp), pure and simple. Too much heat creates crystallization next to the weld, and the material can fail (break). And the list goes on.....

With that said, everyone needs to do their research and homework. Call the manufacturer's and ask questions. Ask the people that have the parts on their vehicles, what do you like and what don't you like. As we old school punk rockers say "Question Authority".

[jephs422]

Originally Posted by bob@proauto

atomsplitter , i can't verify if you have an early fatman ifs or not. It almost looks like an early (early to mid 80's) heidt's kit. But i do know a little about the mustang ii based suspensions. the strut rods are definitely an aftermarket set.

On the original ford mustang ii design, it like hinges on a door. The lower control arm bushing is in the same line and plane as the strut rod bushing. If the hinges on a door aren't in line, it can break, typically at the jamb. You should be able to take a 1/2 piece of all thread and slide in the lower arm bushing and have it intersect the center of the strut rod bushing. From the picture, and it could just be the angle of it, yours looks like it is out of that line.

There was a company years ago that had a problem with the factory strut rod brackets ripping off of the frame, so someone came up with a bushing end replacement strut rod.

As far as strut-less lower arms, there have been a few documented cases on failures. Some companies make arms that are narrower in spread (front to rear) than ford's from lower control arm bushing to strut rod bushing. Some make then as wide. Material being used varies also. As far as i know, some manufacturer's are making their own arms while others are importing then in. I can state that ours are made about 40 ft. From my office.

But, what i've seen on these could be the builder/installer fault, as well. Did they actually read the instructions and follow the directions? If they had a question, did they call the manufacturer? Some companies have a few pieces that weld to the crossmember that the bolt goes through. Anyone who welds knows that it can be extremely difficult to weld 2 tubes together and get 1 bolt to slide through. Experience with welding is key. Heat makes parts move (warp), pure and simple. Too much heat creates crystallization next to the weld, and the material can fail (break). And the list goes on.....

With that said, everyone needs to do their research and homework. Call the manufacturer's and ask questions. Ask the people that have the parts on their vehicles, what do you like and what don't you like. As we old school punk rockers say "question authority".

+1