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#1 |
Senior Enthusiast
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Spokane Valley, WA
Posts: 8,356
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Re: '89 3/4T 'burb front-end swap to '66 C20
No, I didn't find out about Metal Ready until years after I finished my chassis. Like you I brush painted mine after wire brushing everything to bare metal. I also didn't want to render it aerosol due to health risks. It might have held up better had I used Metal Ready first.
I wish more hobbyists considered the safety aspects of the current paint products. POR is no more deadly than anything else with isocynates in it, but that's the component that can kill you. I've known lots of guys that have sprayed catalyzed paint with nothing more than a respirator (including myself when I was younger), but the iso's can be absorbed through your skin and eyeballs so you really need breathing gear for spraying. That's why I painted my truck in lacquer years ago. About 6 months after I was done the breathing gear dropped in price from $2000 to about $500, and I was disappointed I hadn't waited so I could have used better paint. Even if using old Alkyd enamel which is reasonably safe, if hardener is added that has isocynates in it. This is the main reason I'm painting my truck Blitz Black (air dryed enamel). I'm too old to give up any more lung capacity and this is my last paint job so I don't want to invest in breathing equipment that will only get used once. |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 316
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Re: '89 3/4T 'burb front-end swap to '66 C20
Well, the day has come for the deed to be done. I've been forced to take a week off from work (company wide shut downs) so I'm taking advantage of the opportunity to work on my truck.
Day one - tear down: This goes bye-bye and gets replaced with REAL power steering!!!!
__________________
Greg Smith a.k.a. "The Highlander" 1966 C20 Custom Camper, 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 Highlander's Project Pics Highlander's web site: www.6066ChevyTrucks.com |
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