CPP notch alignment question

[shifty]

So, I've had my frame cut for a while for the notch, and now that I'm getting serious about finally getting this in for sandblast and powdercoat, I'm noticing that the CPP notches just don't seem to align well with the factory holes on the spring plate. For the record, the frame has NEVER been unsupported, so I know the rails aren't bent from cutting the notch. I've had the notches clamped but not bolted.

Spring plate has three holes - one approx. 5/8" hole in the center of the spring area, and two smaller 3/8" holes on either side of that.

What I'm finding is that no matter how many clamps I throw on the notch plate to wrench it down onto the frame, those three holes are off by about 1/4". I can force the one closest to the front of the truck line up, but the larger hole at the center is out by a millimeter or two, and the one closest to the notch itself is out by 1/8" or so.

I already had to take a unibit to bore out the stock holes to 7/16". I'm just curious if you guys had the same experience, and if so, did you just waller out the hole in the c-notch plate with a drill or rotary tool or ??

i plan on finishing drilling out the plates tomorrow, then popping them off and hitting em with some paint.

[lolife99]

Shifty,... I found these exact same problems with my POL (PerformanceOnLine) notch and my McGaughy's notch. The only critical hole is the spring hole. Also I made sure the frame notch lined up with the rear axle.
You're right,... it does take a bunch of clamps. Once you start bolting things together I think the c-notch will actually conform to the frame.
On my '69 the right side fit perfect. The left side was terrible. I don't really know if it's the frame or the notch. I think it would be impossible to fit the frame holes exactly.

Did you trim the bottom plate, so the notch would be flush with the side of the frame?

[lolife99]

Here my "good fitting" right side.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Here my "good fitting" right side.

my fitment is reasonable, it fits nug around the outside of the frame, it's just that damned spring plate "tongue" piece that seems to be the brunt of the problem. I had to clamp it, smack it into place with a small sledge, and then push the tongue over to get it to align well on the frontward mount.

I will probably need to bore out the center spring hole a bit. I need to check my airbags and see how large the bolts are that shipped with them in order to doubblecheck. I can't go much larger than 1/2", though, my long-step stepbit is capped at that, and the only one I have that goes larger does really short steps.

Pics for reference (including the crappy Dewalt bit that snapped on me and about took my arm off - used some cheap black bits, one bit did 5x the work as the Dewalt bit w/o snapping).

sorry, they don't show the hole alignment issues, except you can see where I had to waller out the oval hole.

[N2TRUX]

I don't know what brand he used, but n2billet had the same issues on Hazel when I helped him. Seems to be common no matter what brand you use.

[n2billet]

Originally Posted by n2trux

i don't know what brand he used, but n2billet had the same issues on hazel when i helped him. Seems to be common no matter what brand you use.

cpp........

[lolife99]

Shifty,... Are you mounting the bag directly to the frame?
My Slam Specilties RE-7's (on my blazer) have a huge 1/2" pipe thread port in them which requires about a 7/8" hole to clear the air fitting.
I was sick of drilling holes by the time I was done.

[shifty]

Of course, I would pick the one with the most effort. Go figure, guess I've got some drilling in my future

I'm using RE7's as well.

[tdave00]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Shifty,... Are you mounting the bag directly to the frame?
My Slam Specilties RE-7's (on my blazer) have a huge 1/2" pipe thread port in them which requires about a 7/8" hole to clear the air fitting.
I was sick of drilling holes by the time I was done.

Just got done with mine and I hear ya! I could care less if I ever drilled another hole in metal again.

[dznucks]

I am installing the CPP notches and bags over labor day. Shifty can you show more pics of where your having the problems? I would like to be mentally prepared before i start this.

[shifty]

These three holes pictured don't line up worth a damn, otherwise the install was pretty simple.

I still have a bit of things to do on my end. Gotta weld up the extra holes in my framerails, pull my notches, prime and shoot the insides, reinstall, then bolt down and weld a few strategic locations because I'm anal like that, drill out my tranny crossmember mount, then remove the main crossmember that the driveshaft passes through.

After that, I'm finally going to be ready to ship off for sandblast and powdercoat. Been driving me nuts waiting for the day it gets out of the garage so I can clean the crap out of that side of it. Been dirty as nuts for way too long now.

[shifty]

by the way -

CPP didn't bother to send me instructions, so I didn't realize the kit was supposed to come with hardware and bumpstops. I got them to send bumpstops after a member here told me I was supposed to get some, but never got any hardware (boo on you, CPP!) I picked up my own hardware at Fastenal.

So, all I had was the plates.

If you don't already have the most recent installation instructions, they can be found here: http://www.classicperform.com/Instru...DF/6372CNK.pdf

Hope this helps.

[70k52wd]

Heck that looks like a good fit to me. Drill it and bolt it down.
No hardware, get grade 8 since you have to buy it all anyhow.

What lolife said, you'll be sick of drilling. SOOO true.

[dznucks]

I have the hardware and bumpstops. thanks for the photos.

What are you replacing the crossmember with? i am putting in a CPP crossmember.

[shifty]

Which one?

I'm using the CPP tubular transmission crossmember.



For the main center crossmember, I'm using the ECE Extreme Drop Center crossmember:

[shifty]

Originally Posted by 70k52wd

Heck that looks like a good fit to me. Drill it and bolt it down.
No hardware, get grade 8 since you have to buy it all anyhow.

What lolife said, you'll be sick of drilling. SOOO true.

It's mostly drilled! I need to go make a template of the top of the bag and transfer it to the spring plate, then drill that. I have that and about 5 more 7/16" holes to drill, then I'm good to go for bolting in.

Can't wait till this is loaded on the trailer and off for sand/powder.

[dznucks]

I am installing the main center crossmemeber. i have a three speed, dont need the tranny member. you have the t-56, dont you?

[au03z71]

I ended up welding mine in....might not be what you want to hear but I didn't like the idea of having it bolted in.

[shifty]

Originally Posted by au03z71

I ended up welding mine in....might not be what you want to hear but I didn't like the idea of having it bolted in.

I think a little of both is just right, but that's just me. I'm hitting all of the long sides where it touches the frame, but it's too much of a PITA to run beads on the inside. So, I'll bolt it in, which will hold it in place, then weld a lot of seams. Should be rock solid.

Originally Posted by dznucks

I am installing the main center crossmemeber. i have a three speed, dont need the tranny member. you have the t-56, dont you?

Yup. I would've probably gone this route with a 4l60e or 4l80e as well. It's just all-around easier.