Cooling Issues

[mclairmo]

Originally Posted by Devil Pup

the motor was mine just rebuilt. so all new seals and heads. the only thing i changed was the pulleys. i went to aluminum with dual belt because i put ac on. and it has a short pump on it with the alternator on the driver side. I don't quite understand what you mean about the clutch rpm spinning. i have no clue when it comes to the clutches to be honest.

I guess nobody is reading my posts, but I will try one more time since I can sympathize with heating issues. You say you went to aluminum pulleys. These are almost always underdrive pulleys, which means the crank and water pump pulleys are the same diameter. Oem pulleys usually have the water pump pulley smaller than the crank pulley to obtain the proper ratio to keep the water pump spinning fast enough to move the water through the system. I know you changed these pulleys with the new motor and the old motor overheated with the old pulleys but I still don't know what kind of pulleys you had prior to the rebuilt motor. I would suggest that you use a smaller water pump pulley, about 6 inches or less in diameter, and a larger crank pulley, as close to 8 inches as you can find. At least you will then have optimized the water pump rotation speed.

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by mclairmo

I guess nobody is reading my posts, but I will try one more time since I can sympathize with heating issues. You say you went to aluminum pulleys. These are almost always underdrive pulleys, which means the crank and water pump pulleys are the same diameter. Oem pulleys usually have the water pump pulley smaller than the crank pulley to obtain the proper ratio to keep the water pump spinning fast enough to move the water through the system. I know you changed these pulleys with the new motor and the old motor overheated with the old pulleys but I still don't know what kind of pulleys you had prior to the rebuilt motor. I would suggest that you use a smaller water pump pulley, about 6 inches or less in diameter, and a larger crank pulley, as close to 8 inches as you can find. At least you will then have optimized the water pump rotation speed.

sorry sir, meant to respond back to that. the pullys i had on it were stock and then i replaced them with the same diameter just aluminum and dual so i could run two belts. everyone else, i def appreciate all the feed back and would like you guys to give me your opinion on the fans that they recommend because i have the spare funds to just go electric and heard that it would cool a bit better. although i am open to clutch options if anyone can show me. would a pic of the motor and fan set up help at all?
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/52116/10002/-1

[69 longhorn]

Devil Pup,how hot does it get in you "neck of the woods"? I am in the middle of Illinois(west boarder), & we see 95-100 degrees F on the hottest days. My old longhorn is running a mildly warmed 383, 4 row core, with dual elect fans. its all fabbed, 2 -14" flex a lites on a damn steel shelf for a shroud. I run painless controls to switch the fans, (185 on/165 off). The truck runs a 160 high flow Robert shaw stat, stock pump, & will sit & idle all day long & NEVER bust 190 on the temp. I think all these guys have some good ideas(tryin to sort it all)LOL! At any rate, problems @ idle , or low speeds in town are usually due to air flow (lack of). Problems @ highway speed are more due to flow on the radiator as a rule. As already mentioned, you really dont need the fan @ highway speed. You can , (as already mentioned) , play with the pullies. Overdrive the waterpump, & that will help you in stop /go traffic,as it speeds up the flow on the coolant, & pulls just a tad more air through the radiator. If you do opt for elect fans, you want PULLERS, as they are more efficient than the pushers that you would mount on the front side of the radiator. One other thought, if the "mill" is real fresh(tight), you may generate a little more heat till she breaks in(200-210 isnt bad in town)......more than that, I get a little nervous. also, tune can play into the game....is it possible that you are a little lean on the new combo,or timing is not quite optimized? can you list out the specs on you engine(comp ratio,cam,carb, total timing,ect? best of luck,crazyAl

[Devil Pup]

Hey longhorn, i live in Tucson, so it gets up about 100 alot of the time. and i also live in Riverside, Ca which often hits well over 100. my truck cant even begin to idle when its hot outside, pretty much the first light i stop at it spikes to 230 and will keep climbing if i dont hit the heater on. i really couldnt list the specs to be honest. its just a stock 5.7 with an RV cam in it. timing was set by a shop and carb was tuned as well. would it be a good idea to have someone re do this? and those fans that im looking for are pullers. so hopefully those would work

Here's a pic of the pulleys/fan. excuse the dirt please lol. havent had much time with the 12 hour shifts ive been working.

[69 longhorn]

Looking at the pullies, it looks like you are about 1 to 1 ratio. This has already been mentioned, but I would also try to overdrive the waterpump(smaller pulley top & larger on the bottom)....see if that helps. does it run cool @ highway speed?

[Devil Pup]

Originally Posted by 69 longhorn

Looking at the pullies, it looks like you are about 1 to 1 ratio. This has already been mentioned, but I would also try to overdrive the waterpump(smaller pulley top & larger on the bottom)....see if that helps. does it run cool @ highway speed?

no it gets hot then as well