67-72 rear disk brakes - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Eichorst69 · 08-30-2009, 02:45 PM

Has anyone run steel lines straight to their rear calipers and not used hoses?

I know the calipers need to be able to move a little but I don't believe the hoses are neccessary for the rear, just an additional cost. The steel lines should still give enough to allow the calipers to move.

Just my thought. What do you guys think? Has anyone done it this way?

463 · 08-30-2009, 02:51 PM

the calipers need the room to free float to work right. i would put the hoses on and save the problems later

fastom · 08-30-2009, 03:08 PM

Steel lines are run straight to mine, no problems. I checked the movement and it's not much if any at all.

cdowns · 08-30-2009, 03:12 PM

you still need a rubber hose from frame to axel// if you're looking to save money the brakes aint where to do it

*Shane* · 08-30-2009, 03:28 PM

that small additional cost could possibly save your life and others on the road once that hard line cracks.

Not IF it cracks ... WHEN it cracks.

Longhorn Man · 08-30-2009, 04:34 PM

i have to agree with shane on this...not if it cracks... when.

fastom · 08-30-2009, 05:17 PM

Maybe I didn't understand the question. I don't have rubber lines from the axle ends to the brake calipers. I do however have one rubber hose from the hard line on the frame to the axle housing at the tee.

The hard lines at the calipers do not move. I have double checked that now, I see no problem with my setup.

Cost is not an issue on my truck.

ebfabman · 08-30-2009, 05:43 PM

If the calipers have pistons on both sides of the rotor, the calipers can be mounted solid and plumbed with a steel line. The caliper does not need to move as long as the pistons on both sides of the rotor are free to move.

**mr48chev** · 08-30-2009, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebfabman

If the calipers have pistons on both sides of the rotor, the calipers can be mounted solid and plumbed with a steel line. The caliper does not need to move as long as the pistons on both sides of the rotor are free to move.

Quite correct, the 4 piston calipers or as efabmen said, the calipers with pistons on both sides are mounted solid and don't require a rubber hose while the single piston calipers have to float and move outward as the pads wear and will in time work harden the steel line and cause failure if there isn't a rubber line there. It is also quite possible that a solid steel line would cause the calipers to "stick" to one side of the rotor or the other and not let the caliper float correctly.

fastom · 08-30-2009, 05:55 PM

I forgot that the rear end in my truck has been changed. I have a 12 bolt but the ends of the housing were replaced with some Ford (or other) setup. The brake calipers are bolted solid, they have two pistons.

Eichorst69 · 08-30-2009, 06:09 PM

I have the rubber hose from the frame to the axel, there's no doubt it's needed there.

Like Fastom said, I don't think the calipers move/slide enough for a steel linr to cause a problem.

My 69 is a 4x4 and I would think there would be less of a chance for something to catch a steel line as there would be for something to catch a hose while off roading which is why I was really considering the steel lines to the calipers.

Thanks for all the input

Rob

*2tons of fun* · 08-30-2009, 08:01 PM

1, its $40 or less to do

2 how the f do you hard line the steel into the cal?

the call is a banjo bolt that uses the thread os the banjo bolt to clamp the banjo down.

the hard line needs to end to a flare, cals dont have a felame flare. so how the hell are you hard lining a cal?

chevy_mike · 08-30-2009, 10:36 PM

Not sure what caliper you are using (pics would be good) but if they are like most I have seen, to change the pads, you have to rotate the caliper out of the way.

Do you want to have to reblead the lines, having to remove them from the caliper, anytime you need to change pads?

If the caliper you are using is a fixed style (i.e. pistons on the inner and outer) then a hard line into it will work but servicing will be a pain down the road.

Longhorn Man · 08-30-2009, 10:46 PM

i just don't see the point. I'm as cheap as the next guy, but why half ass your brakes.

Eichorst69 · 08-31-2009, 01:31 PM

chevy_mike, your point of having to reblead the lines and having to remove them from the caliper, each time I needed to change pads or even service the rear end or wheel bearings, etc., slipped my mind!!!

I'm going to use hoses!

Thanks everyone

Rob

glock35ipsc · 08-31-2009, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cdowns

if you're looking to save money the brakes aint where to do it

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shane

that small additional cost could possibly save your life and others on the road once that hard line cracks.

Not IF it cracks ... WHEN it cracks.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

i just don't see the point. I'm as cheap as the next guy, but why half ass your brakes.

What they said!

BCOWANWHEELS · 08-31-2009, 05:57 PM

Like my old dad always told me, if you are not going to fix it right " leave it alone.......
Bob

Ackattack · 08-31-2009, 11:06 PM

I put some camaro brakes on mine and I just ran the hard line directly to the caliper. Then I got to thinking and reading, and it really does need a flexable line between the hard line and caliper. I haven't driven mine yet, and it WILL be fixed before I drive it.

*2tons of fun* · 09-02-2009, 02:33 AM

how did you hard line it to the caliper?

vectorit · 09-02-2009, 02:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by longhorn man

i just don't see the point. I'm as cheap as the next guy, but why half ass your brakes.

x2!

**special-K** · 09-02-2009, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Eichorst69

My 69 is a 4x4 and I would think there would be less of a chance for something to catch a steel line as there would be for something to catch a hose while off roading which is why I was really considering the steel lines to the calipers.

I don`t see how one would be more likely to snag than the other.Besides,what do you do about the front?I know it`s already been proven plumbing steel to single piston calipers makes no sense when it comes to pad replacement.But,the movement is the main reason to never consider this.The caliper does float on the sliders and having them freeze on the sliders is the most common cause of premature pad wear,usually leading to rotor replacement.Either the steel line will prevent movement or the steel line will move and fatigue.I believe the caliper will just not move.

pumpkin · 09-02-2009, 10:07 AM

The caddy rear disc brakes were just hard lined from the factory. They just cioled the brake line for movement and vibration. I ran a U bend and solid lines to my rear calipers. There is no problem if done right. The only thing is when you go to do the brakes you have to und the line, so for this reason I will be putting in some braided brake lines.

08-30-2009, 02:45 PM	#1
Eichorst69 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 158	67-72 rear disk brakes Has anyone run steel lines straight to their rear calipers and not used hoses? I know the calipers need to be able to move a little but I don't believe the hoses are neccessary for the rear, just an additional cost. The steel lines should still give enough to allow the calipers to move. Just my thought. What do you guys think? Has anyone done it this way?

08-30-2009, 02:51 PM	#2
463 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Sask Canada Posts: 1,666	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes the calipers need the room to free float to work right. i would put the hoses on and save the problems later __________________ Trueman

08-30-2009, 03:08 PM	#3
fastom That's right, it's Copper!! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Central California Posts: 558	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes Steel lines are run straight to mine, no problems. I checked the movement and it's not much if any at all. __________________ Tom: 1968 Chevy SWB ZZ383 W/700R4 Gen-II Compact Vintage Air System PPG paint, Mandarin Copper and Vanilla Shake. http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/fastom Stupid should hurt and eventually become fatal!

08-30-2009, 03:12 PM	#4
cdowns Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: daytonabeach Posts: 22,956	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes you still need a rubber hose from frame to axel// if you're looking to save money the brakes aint where to do it __________________ 71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY

08-30-2009, 03:28 PM	#5
Shane Account Suspended Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: over yonder Posts: 14,270	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes that small additional cost could possibly save your life and others on the road once that hard line cracks. Not IF it cracks ... WHEN it cracks.

08-30-2009, 04:34 PM	#6
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes i have to agree with shane on this...not if it cracks... when.

08-30-2009, 05:17 PM	#7
fastom That's right, it's Copper!! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Central California Posts: 558	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes Maybe I didn't understand the question. I don't have rubber lines from the axle ends to the brake calipers. I do however have one rubber hose from the hard line on the frame to the axle housing at the tee. The hard lines at the calipers do not move. I have double checked that now, I see no problem with my setup. Cost is not an issue on my truck. __________________ Tom: 1968 Chevy SWB ZZ383 W/700R4 Gen-II Compact Vintage Air System PPG paint, Mandarin Copper and Vanilla Shake. http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/fastom Stupid should hurt and eventually become fatal! Last edited by fastom; 08-30-2009 at 05:22 PM.

08-30-2009, 05:43 PM	#8
ebfabman Registered User Join Date: Nov 2001 Location: Concord, NC Posts: 2,488	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes If the calipers have pistons on both sides of the rotor, the calipers can be mounted solid and plumbed with a steel line. The caliper does not need to move as long as the pistons on both sides of the rotor are free to move.

08-30-2009, 05:55 PM	#10
fastom That's right, it's Copper!! Join Date: May 2007 Location: Bakersfield, Central California Posts: 558	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes I forgot that the rear end in my truck has been changed. I have a 12 bolt but the ends of the housing were replaced with some Ford (or other) setup. The brake calipers are bolted solid, they have two pistons. __________________ Tom: 1968 Chevy SWB ZZ383 W/700R4 Gen-II Compact Vintage Air System PPG paint, Mandarin Copper and Vanilla Shake. http://www.hubgarage.com/mygarage/fastom Stupid should hurt and eventually become fatal!

08-30-2009, 06:09 PM	#11
Eichorst69 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 158	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes I have the rubber hose from the frame to the axel, there's no doubt it's needed there. Like Fastom said, I don't think the calipers move/slide enough for a steel linr to cause a problem. My 69 is a 4x4 and I would think there would be less of a chance for something to catch a steel line as there would be for something to catch a hose while off roading which is why I was really considering the steel lines to the calipers. Thanks for all the input Rob

08-30-2009, 08:01 PM	#12
2tons of fun Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: galt ca, Posts: 749	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes 1, its $40 or less to do 2 how the f do you hard line the steel into the cal? the call is a banjo bolt that uses the thread os the banjo bolt to clamp the banjo down. the hard line needs to end to a flare, cals dont have a felame flare. so how the hell are you hard lining a cal?

08-30-2009, 10:36 PM	#13
chevy_mike Never Ending Projects Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 3,836	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes Not sure what caliper you are using (pics would be good) but if they are like most I have seen, to change the pads, you have to rotate the caliper out of the way. Do you want to have to reblead the lines, having to remove them from the caliper, anytime you need to change pads? If the caliper you are using is a fixed style (i.e. pistons on the inner and outer) then a hard line into it will work but servicing will be a pain down the road. __________________ . 1965 C10 Panel, Tiki Express http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=506580 SOLD 1968 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod Hauler http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313233 SOLD 1965 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415702 SOLD We were given two ears and one mouth for a reason... listen twice as much and speak half as often...

08-30-2009, 10:46 PM	#14
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes i just don't see the point. I'm as cheap as the next guy, but why half ass your brakes.

08-31-2009, 01:31 PM	#15
Eichorst69 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: South Florida Posts: 158	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes chevy_mike, your point of having to reblead the lines and having to remove them from the caliper, each time I needed to change pads or even service the rear end or wheel bearings, etc., slipped my mind!!! I'm going to use hoses! Thanks everyone Rob

08-31-2009, 05:57 PM	#17
BCOWANWHEELS Registered User Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: KINGSPORT,TN. Posts: 3,035	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes Like my old dad always told me, if you are not going to fix it right " leave it alone....... Bob __________________ I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

08-31-2009, 11:06 PM	#18
Ackattack Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2002 Location: Valley Center KS Posts: 3,524	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes I put some camaro brakes on mine and I just ran the hard line directly to the caliper. Then I got to thinking and reading, and it really does need a flexable line between the hard line and caliper. I haven't driven mine yet, and it WILL be fixed before I drive it. __________________ Project Bruiser: 68 Pro-Touring C-10 5.3L / 4L60E Project Ironhide: 97 GMC Crew Cab 4x4 Cummins SOLD: '69 GMC 1/2T SWB TBI'd: Project No Buck Assembly Manual Index Sign up Thread!!! Factory Service Manual Index

09-02-2009, 02:33 AM	#19
2tons of fun Account Suspended Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: galt ca, Posts: 749	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes how did you hard line it to the caliper?

09-02-2009, 10:07 AM	#22
pumpkin Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: East Sooke B.C. Canada Posts: 543	Re: 67-72 rear disk brakes The caddy rear disc brakes were just hard lined from the factory. They just cioled the brake line for movement and vibration. I ran a U bend and solid lines to my rear calipers. There is no problem if done right. The only thing is when you go to do the brakes you have to und the line, so for this reason I will be putting in some braided brake lines.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.