09-09-2009, 09:08 PM | #1 |
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Quick question
Sorry if this is a stupid question.
I recently refurbished my HVAC controls. Just the levers. Now when trying to select between the heater on the floor and the defrost I only get defrost. All the wire pulleys are hooked up and they function. My question is if there is some way the baffle inside the airbox can break? Also if someone has an exploded view of the airbox without AC that would help out a bunch. Thanks. |
09-09-2009, 09:35 PM | #2 |
Grandpa in the rustmobile...
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Re: Quick question
order an LMC cataglog there great for exploded views of that stuff..
it may be on there website also.
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John Goose-1968 C10 355,9.32-1CR, Vortec Heads ,262 voodoo, 3.73:1 3OTT (HS ride/beater/farm truck) http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=317684 Grams 53-1953 Chevrolet Belair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post4327784 1969 Chevy C10 Shortbed 4.5/6?" Frame off resto http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=548136 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 |
09-09-2009, 10:33 PM | #3 |
its all about the +6 inches
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Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Quick question
so is it HVAC... or a heater?
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09-09-2009, 10:48 PM | #4 |
The Older Generation
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Re: Quick question
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The air control door in the lower part of the heater box is not working then. (closest to the floor) I have never seen one of them broken there. Are you sure the cables are hooked up correctly? I would unhook the cable on the front of the lower heater box and try working it by hand. It should be easy to tell if the door is working. LockDoc
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09-10-2009, 09:34 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Quick question
Quote:
You got me Longhorn Man. I have no AC, so technically it is heater controls. Being a tradesman I always use acronyms. |
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09-10-2009, 11:15 PM | #6 |
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Re: Quick question
The part that you are talking about can break. Not really break though, just slip. It's all made of metal. The lever on the heater box has a rod going through the box with a flapper valve attached. The rod could just be spinning in the valve. My suggestion would be to remove the box, then remove the rod. (There's only one there). Once you have the flapper removed, LIGHTLY tap the holes in the flapper where the rod passes through. This will keep the rod from spinning. Put the flapper in the box, shove the rod back through, bolt the box back up, and you're set. I had this problem when I bought a secondhand heater box. I'll try to post pics up tomorrow if I think about it... Sorry for the long post, but I like to give accurate descriptions.
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09-10-2009, 11:20 PM | #7 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
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Re: Quick question
the heater system only shares a few parts with a heat/ac system... thats why I asked.
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09-10-2009, 11:38 PM | #8 | |
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Re: Quick question
Quote:
I think I need to do mine too. |
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09-11-2009, 07:06 PM | #9 |
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Re: Quick question
Thanks Bruce Wayne!!! I'll give her a good teardown.
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09-11-2009, 07:14 PM | #10 |
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Re: Quick question
it might help if you told what year and model truck your asking about// the flapper in the divertor box breaks commonly
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY Last edited by cdowns; 09-11-2009 at 07:15 PM. |
09-11-2009, 10:18 PM | #11 | |
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Re: Quick question
Quote:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...5&d=1240364828 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...4&d=1240364828 |
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09-11-2009, 10:23 PM | #12 |
chrome makes it go FASTER!
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Re: Quick question
Not to hijack this thread, but.
We definitely need more pics of that sharp ride!
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09-11-2009, 10:31 PM | #13 |
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Re: Quick question
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