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Sacramento70 · 10-04-2009, 09:27 PM

i bought new floor pans for my 70 blazer and was wondering if i should weld them on top of lips left by the old floor pan or flush weld them and does the rolled metal that meets the floor pan and firewall critical. any help is appreciated. and o a side note my a pillars are completely trashed and do i need new exact fits or will a few pieces of metal do the trick

71jimmy · 10-05-2009, 01:59 AM

first off, everything in the Blazer is critical. If your going to remove the top and expect to get it back on with minimal leakage etc, it needs to be done close to the way the factory did it. It's up to you were you weld, you'll need to live with it. I only had to replace a partial section of floor. I cut about 1 inch below were it meets the firewall and butt welded. As far as the A pillar, again critical, spend the extra few bucks and buy the replacement for the bottom of the A pillars. There are several threads that have plenty of pics of this work, it's worth spending the time to find them and read them.

Good Luck!

vtblazer · 10-05-2009, 06:43 AM

do your homework.

It's all repairable, have fun.

Post up a thread with pic's & description's of your trouble spots, we'll help were we can.

...and welcome to the board, enjoy the ride.

vtblazer · 10-07-2009, 06:29 AM

Thought I'd answer your pm here in the thread just in case others might have the same questions.

I use a Miller mig welder, 75/25 mixed gas & .025 wire.

No, I don't believe you loose any strength buy butt welding, it's the correct way to do it IMO.
By doing an over lap joint, you invite moisture to settle in.

As for shaping the metal to roll up and meet the fire wall, use what the patch offers and after that, having a set of body hammers help.

Here's the basic breakdown, hope the pics help.

Started here:

Cut out the bad:

Floor support install:

Used a truck inner rocker patch panel and cut it down, they offer more metal to work with including the lower 'a' pillar area:

Floor patch panel over lay:

vtblazer · 10-07-2009, 06:31 AM

Cut - Fit & Weld in the patch:

Have fun.

71jimmy · 10-07-2009, 01:45 PM

Vt, excellent pics

Question: How did you weld the underside of the floor support? With the torsion box still on, it doesn't give much room to weld from under the floor support.

I went and removed the entire old floor support, kind of a pain to get everything re-aligned, thinking about what you did on my dr. side instead if I can figure out how to weld the underside of the support like that.

Thanks

jaros44sr · 10-07-2009, 02:01 PM

Thanks for taking the time! Great idea on the chain, always needed to pull something off of that area...I like the way you cut a 1/2 circle around the reinforcement indentation

vtblazer · 10-07-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 71jimmy

Question: How did you weld the underside of the floor support? With the torsion box still on, it doesn't give much room to weld from under the floor support.

Nothing more than what you can see where I welded it from the top, plenty strong enough, nothing more needed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaros44sr

Thanks for taking the time! Great idea on the chain, always needed to pull something off of that area...I like the way you cut a 1/2 circle around the reinforcement indentation

Thank you sir.

10-04-2009, 09:27 PM	#1
Sacramento70 Blazer Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Sacramento, ca Posts: 249	questions i bought new floor pans for my 70 blazer and was wondering if i should weld them on top of lips left by the old floor pan or flush weld them and does the rolled metal that meets the floor pan and firewall critical. any help is appreciated. and o a side note my a pillars are completely trashed and do i need new exact fits or will a few pieces of metal do the trick __________________ 1970 Chevy blazer

10-05-2009, 01:59 AM	#2
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,084	Re: questions first off, everything in the Blazer is critical. If your going to remove the top and expect to get it back on with minimal leakage etc, it needs to be done close to the way the factory did it. It's up to you were you weld, you'll need to live with it. I only had to replace a partial section of floor. I cut about 1 inch below were it meets the firewall and butt welded. As far as the A pillar, again critical, spend the extra few bucks and buy the replacement for the bottom of the A pillars. There are several threads that have plenty of pics of this work, it's worth spending the time to find them and read them. Good Luck! __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

10-05-2009, 06:43 AM	#3
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,538	Re: questions do your homework. It's all repairable, have fun. Post up a thread with pic's & description's of your trouble spots, we'll help were we can. ...and welcome to the board, enjoy the ride. Attached Images Last edited by vtblazer; 10-05-2009 at 06:46 AM.

10-07-2009, 06:29 AM	#4
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,538	Re: questions Thought I'd answer your pm here in the thread just in case others might have the same questions. I use a Miller mig welder, 75/25 mixed gas & .025 wire. No, I don't believe you loose any strength buy butt welding, it's the correct way to do it IMO. By doing an over lap joint, you invite moisture to settle in. As for shaping the metal to roll up and meet the fire wall, use what the patch offers and after that, having a set of body hammers help. Here's the basic breakdown, hope the pics help. Started here: Cut out the bad: Floor support install: Used a truck inner rocker patch panel and cut it down, they offer more metal to work with including the lower 'a' pillar area: Floor patch panel over lay: Last edited by vtblazer; 10-07-2009 at 06:33 AM.

10-07-2009, 06:31 AM	#5
vtblazer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Central Vermont Posts: 8,538	Re: questions Cut - Fit & Weld in the patch: Have fun.

10-07-2009, 01:45 PM	#6
71jimmy Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Sacramento, CA Posts: 1,084	Re: questions Vt, excellent pics Question: How did you weld the underside of the floor support? With the torsion box still on, it doesn't give much room to weld from under the floor support. I went and removed the entire old floor support, kind of a pain to get everything re-aligned, thinking about what you did on my dr. side instead if I can figure out how to weld the underside of the support like that. Thanks __________________ '71 Jimmy, 350, SM465, NP205, 2in Tuff Country lift, 33s on rallies, TBI, softtop and hardtop "If life was fair you'd be able to afford one of each and a garage large enough to house them all."

10-07-2009, 02:01 PM	#7
jaros44sr Registered User Join Date: May 2006 Location: Philadelphia, Pa. 19454 Posts: 9,451	Re: questions Thanks for taking the time! Great idea on the chain, always needed to pull something off of that area...I like the way you cut a 1/2 circle around the reinforcement indentation __________________ Semper Fi...Uncle Sam, you da man All parts offered to help are free, unless otherwise noted Dont try this stuff in my build thread, unless you have 55 years of mechanical OTJ training SAFETY FIRST AS usual, off topic They say your mind goes second, can't remember the first Jim Last edited by jaros44sr; 10-07-2009 at 02:04 PM.



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