4x4 to 2wd, need opinions!!

[blackdiesel]

alright, here is the deal. I built my truck when i was just starting high school, and foolish me, wanted a 4x4.



Now i'm tired of it and i want to go 2wd with a LQ4 and 4L80. Lucky for me, the frame that came with my pickup is a stock frame, that has been narrowed 4" in the rear.






i have stripped the frame of the front and rear end and un necessary brackets.

Plan is to go back with either a triangulated 4 link or a parallel 4 link in the rear. Which one is better? a triangulated 4 link would give more axle articualtion, but maybe a parallel hooks better?

for the front i think a mustang II is in order. is there any better options? no sub frames here, ive subbed my 38 chrysler and it dosnt turn worth a hoot. Whos got the cheapest kit out there? it dosnt have to be tublar or chrome plated, just functional and strong. also, traditional coil springs or coil overs?? she'll be setting low. Thanks fellas

[blackdiesel]

Okay, i'm looking @ this kit
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mustan...sion,2088.html

with the drop spindles & coil overs and this cross member

http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/...roducts_id=424

any body got a better kit? this would only be 1400 hub to hub vs 1600+++ with all the other kits that i've seen

[63 & 64 Bowties]

I'm by no means a suspension expert, but my buddy who builds drag car frames and suspensions swears by ladder bars. I'd keep the ladder bars. He puts them in cars that are running 572's and has no problems with them. I consider him an expert on suspensions since that's his job. I always thought they looked weak, but in his opinion, and from his experience they're economical and strong. Just my opinion (well, his) but I'm sure others will have different opinions.

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

I'm by no means a suspension expert, but my buddy who builds drag car frames and suspensions swears by ladder bars. I'd keep the ladder bars. He puts them in cars that are running 572's and has no problems with them. I consider him an expert on suspensions since that's his job. I always thought they looked weak, but in his opinion, and from his experience they're economical and strong. Just my opinion (well, his) but I'm sure others will have different opinions.

hmm, sounds convincing. lol, and being as how i already have it, that will save 3 or 4 hundred bucks.

Today i ordered a crossmember off of speedway for the 55-59 pickups. should be here friday with any luck. i plan on going with their tubelar front suspension with traditional coil springs and a set of coil overs in the rear.

I went to the local junk yard where i get all of my parts today and they quoted me a 6.0 & 4l80 north of 3 thousand. WOW, i thought that he told me cheaper than that a few months ago. however they have a 5.3 with a 4l60 on hand that i can get for right at 1500. add another 200 for a 8.8 rear end out of a ford explorer and i should have a rolling chassis as soon as i get all my parts in.

[mylow53]

it's the computer that drives up the cost 700r is way cheeper!

[blackdiesel]

the 4l60e was what I ment to say. They all have been computer controlled for several years. I have a lt1 with a 4l60e in my 38 coupe. I like it a lot better than 700r4. We have 700's in my 57 truck now, dads 57 truck, dads 56 belair, and grandpas 57 belair. I know that the 4l60e is based on the 700r4, but it shifts MUCH better and dosnt rob half as much power.

[Dan in Pasadena]

Is it just me or is BlackDiesel friggin NUTS!!! to change his beautiful truck? I'm kidding....well, kinda!

I'm sure it will turn out great from the looks of what you were able to do back in high school, but I gotta say I love that 57 4x4.

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by Dan in Pasadena

Is it just me or is BlackDiesel friggin NUTS!!! to change his beautiful truck? I'm kidding....well, kinda!

I'm sure it will turn out great from the looks of what you were able to do back in high school, but I gotta say I love that 57 4x4.

ah, i find myself not driving this.. at all. i thought an auto would help, vs my 4 speed, but it didnt really. i havnt put 500 miles on it in the last year. my 38 is so much better in every aspect (hp, handling, take off, body roll, steering, shifting, acceleration, etc etc) even my fathers '57 is more pleasurable to drive than mine. once i get done with it this time around maybe i can get some more seat time in it

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm sure you're right. I just like the LOOK of the 57 as a 4x4. If you're not enjoying it, why have it? These trucks are primarily hobbies anyway. If not, you could be driving a Toyota or something.

I can relate. I have a new 2008 Chevy 3500HD crew cab dually 4x4 and a '46 Chevy half ton with 350/350, Jag rearend, four wheel discs and power rack & pinion and I don't really drive either because I have a company car. The diesel would eat me out of house and home if it were my daily. The '46 is just too rough to drive as a daily...so far!

I'll love watching your progress. Looks likes you'e got some serious fab chops. Best of Luck, Dan

[hotrodrookie]

Well I might be bias because Im putting a 5.3 and a ford 8.8 in my truck but I think its a great way to go.

I was considering fabbing up a triangulated 4 link but because of how narrow these frames are, to obtain a desirable 35-45 degree angle on each of the upper bars would make them very short. Being that your frame is 4 inches narrower I would definetly rule out the triangulated from what Ive heard about the suspension geometry.

A parallel would seem to be a better choice as you can mount the bars on the outside of the frame rail and you can re-use that panhard bar off the old rear end. Having an adjustable 4 link can allow you to change the instant center which changes the way the truck would hook up. Theres alot of parallel 4 link kits, most of the street kits arent adjustable. Welderseries sells several kits that would work http://www.welderseries.com/catalog/...roducts_id=440 this one is the race adjustable one. Depending on how much you want to save and how confident you are with your fabbing skills, building a 4 link from scratch would be the cheapest and "could" be most desired. Add in the price of coilovers +/-$350 and you'll be rolling.

[blackdiesel]

Hey HRR. have already got your motor? did you get a good deal? what do you think of the 05 with 60k on it, 5.3 with a 4l60e with comp. my parts yard priced it to me @ 1500 with all the componets. Good point on that trianglated suspension. You would have easier and more adjustability with the parallel 4 link, but other than that, what would be wrong with the ladder bars that I already have?

[hotrodrookie]

That price sounds pretty fair for everything your getting. I picked up a running 2001 5.3 with comp/wiring for 850 from a guy who already had it reprogammed and in his rock crawler that he couldnt afford any more. I have a th400 that I plan on using with it.

Im not too sure on the laddar bars. It sounds like theyr pretty stout from what others are saying, maybe you should look into it.

[blackdiesel]

Originally Posted by hotrodrookie

That price sounds pretty fair for everything your getting. I picked up a running 2001 5.3 with comp/wiring for 850 from a guy who already had it reprogammed and in his rock crawler that he couldnt afford any more. I have a th400 that I plan on using with it.

Im not too sure on the laddar bars. It sounds like theyr pretty stout from what others are saying, maybe you should look into it.

he told me 800 for the motor and 600 for the trans. then he threw in the computer and accessories for a hundred bucks

[blackdiesel]

i received my cross member from speedway today. im pretty happy with it. between work and filming how to install 1 piece windows today, i only got one side of it boxed in. however it seems pretty straight forward. it gives you the axle center line, which conviently is the crossmember center line also. then weld the spring helmets on and your done. maybe, just maybe ill find enough time to finish it up tomorrow.