gap questions for someone with finished AD

[BlueJeep]

I have a couple of gap related questions for someone with a finished AD truck. First question is do you have a gap between the splash apron and the rear fender like in this picture?



Second question is what kind of a gap do you have between the cab corners and the splash aprons?



I'm fitting the truck on the s10 frame, and at this point everything is moveable so I'd like to get it as correct as I can. Thanks!

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Do you need pics of the stock set up?
I bought a 54 that was completely disassembled a while back. My brother and I put it back together with a Camaro clip and ladder bar suspension. Trouble was, we weren't the ones who took it apart and neither one of us had ever done an AD. But, without a doubt the hardest part of the whole re-assembly was those splash aprons.

[BlueJeep]

Sure, pics and measurements would help. The running boards and aprons as pictured are being located by the fenders, and the fenders do have some cracks at the bottom so I can't guarantee they're locating them correctly. Everything on it can still move, I just need to know where I need to move it to. There are no frame braces on it yet either - I'm just at the positioning stage.

[mr48chev]

Probably the best thing to do is fix the cracks and get the fenders straightened out. These trucks didn't have the greatest panel fit up when they were new so it is pretty much make it fit up right so that it looks right to you. A little nudge here, building up the panel so that it fits with the right gaps and the usual tweaking one does to make things look right.
Still maybe we can get some of the guys with trucks that have pretty close fit and finish in that area to post some detail photos.

[Kid]

your gap at the rear fender looks to be normal, unless you contour the aft edge of the splash apron. If you use welting, it will help fill the void. I measured the gap between the cab & splash piece, & have 3/8". This is to insure they don't rub during chassis flex. I also included a picture showing the gap between the bed side & splash apron. If these parts touch, it will invite corrosion. (I had to replace the metal due to the rust found there) Not saying this is per factory spec (if there was any) but thats how I set mine up.
Hope this helps.

[BlueJeep]

Kid, actually one of the questions I have is do I have to re-contour the aft end of the splash guard so it follows the curve of the fender more? If I "force" the running board rearward, it will close the gap towards the top of the apron between the apron and the fender....just not sure if I want to do that.

3/8" sounds great on the cab to apron clearance. How about between the front fender and the leading edge of the running board?

Thanks!

[Kid]

Originally Posted by BlueJeep

Kid, actually one of the questions I have is do I have to re-contour the aft end of the splash guard so it follows the curve of the fender more? If I "force" the running board rearward, it will close the gap towards the top of the apron between the apron and the fender....just not sure if I want to do that.

3/8" sounds great on the cab to apron clearance. How about between the front fender and the leading edge of the running board?

Thanks!

I guess that really depends on what your after, If your not using welting, then modifying the splash guard (recontour) would help close the gap. As you know, now is the time to get the fit your after, before paint. As for the gap between the running board & front fender, I measured 3/4".

[buildinga55]

My 48 is not on a S10 frame but the splash pans were very tight against the cab. I recountoured, if that is a word, the edge that was next to the cab about a 1/4". I used a few hand tools, hammer anvil etc. Looked good when I got done. It is in primer right now with everything else.

[BlueJeep]

Thanks guys. I'm probably going to use welting...just don't have it yet so I wasn't sure of what it would or wouldn't do. I'm not going for a show truck, just a good hauler but I figure if it's worth doing...it's worth doing well. I think with the variances you guys have with stock frames, I should be able to do what I think looks good and run with it.

Kid, what did you use on your running boards under the paint? Is that the lizard skin there too? How did you like the lizard skin? I'm thinking either that or Al's liner for mine.

[Kid]

I used tinted "speed Liner" under a coat of paint. It's similar to rinho liner, (not a DYI) but has better consistancy. I am sold on the Lizard Skin. It makes a mess, but it was worth it. Zero heat from the fire wall

[BlueJeep]

Does it eliminate the need for Dynamat and undercoating too?

[Kid]

I applied the lizard skin (sound control & heat barrier) all over the interior (all surfaces), & "Damplafier Pro" sound damping mat on top of Lizard skin on floor only. also used undercoating on the exterior of floor. They claim that no additional sound damper is needed, but my thoughts are "more is better"