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10-18-2009, 07:35 PM | #1 |
Watchin the rust grow
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western Nebraska
Posts: 950
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79 K10 and lift questions
I'm saving up money for a diesel, but I've decided I might just pour it into the ol K10 instead.
I have some questions before I start to think about what I really want. What's the difference between suspension and body lifts? What's the difference in prces? Whats the difference in items you have to change, and in difficulty of installation? Which "performs" better off road? What do you need to generally change when you're lifting a truck? How do you decide how large of tires you can fit? Sorry about the mass of questions, but this really is the only site that I can get information that I trust.
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1979 Chevy K10 (H/D Front end) - 350 w/ Holley Truck Avenger, Weinald Intake manifold, headers, bored .060 over, mild cam, Built up TH350 (TranStar Shift kit) with a part-timed NP203 t-case SOLD ($3,000) 1997 Chevy Silverado 1500 - 4.3 vortec, extended cab, 21 highway MPG, stock. "Red" SOLD ($3,000) 1987 Toyota 4wd Pick-up - work in progress, future DD SOLD ($1,850) 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5spd Quad cab - old 12 valve with some work done 2004 Chevy Silverado - Black, 4x4, 5.3L, stock for now Underneath that rust is a heart of gold
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10-20-2009, 01:21 AM | #2 |
Sb 400 club
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NH / MA
Posts: 2,746
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Re: 79 K10 and lift questions
Okay first off what do you want to get outta the lift???
You going for the "look or are you actually gonna wheel it?? What type of wheeling do you do?? mud or trail stuff? Body lift will be cheapest but i personally hate them. they look tackey to me and i don't like the added stress on the body mounts. They are good for a street truck and or to gain clearace for bigger meats. I mostly see body lifts on mud trucks or pavement rigs. Most agree the biggest body lift they will do is 3 inch. some like a combo of small body lift around 1 to 2 inch and a small suspension... Again a personal preference thing. Okay off road I think everyone will agree lift suspension for the best performance. You want a suspention that has "flex" in other words It needs to give and allow articulation to keep from lifting tires. I like tuff country front springs and a shackle flip in the rear. The rear flip lets you retain the factory springs which will outflex rear lift springs.. There are many different combos out there to mix match parts or you can by the whole kit from a company. It is all up to your budget. I suggest searching on here. Look into DIY4X and ORD for flip kits if that's what you want. The size of the lift will determine what needs changed.. I like 4 inch to 5 inch but that is just me. The reason is I like the lower Center of gravity for a dual purpose rig like mine. Things to consider are Drive shaft angle brake lines Steering correction ect. Difficulty of installation is all dependent on your know how and ability. If you have tools and a place to work nether are hard to do. Go on Skyjacker or tuff countries website and download the PDF file of instillation instructions. That will let you know. As for tire fitment there are various charts all across the web. ck5 has a good one (Colorado K5). they have alot of good info on there. Also if your gonna run a bigger tire and beating it hard you may consider an upgrade to 3/4 or 1 ton axles to reduce breaking. Here is my set up.... 4 inch front tough country springs ( got em free with a frame i resold to make back what i paid) New they go for around 250-300 ORD extended brake lines ORd steering box brace Raised steering arm DIY4X Shackle flip and 4.5 inch cross tied shackles Rancho front shocks and reused rears that's about it.. with new bushings and hardware i would have to say i got about 600 or so in my suspension and am clearing 34' super swampers. A full leaf spring supention from say skyjacker will run you 7-800 bucks maybe and includes everything with rear springs. You could get rear lift blocks or rear lift springs for around 500-600... I could give you more info but this is a start. Do a bunch of research that's what i did! check out off road design and DIY4x. Check out Tuff country, Skyjacker, Rough country, super lift..... Decide what you want outta the truck in the end and others can give you advice on how to get there. Remember there are a ton of different ways to go about lifting a truck depending on what you want. I am sure others can add more to this but do some searching it will help you a lot
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1984 chevy c10, built 400sb,.(SOLD) 77 K10 Project / daily driver "The Grinch" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318363 1956 Willys Wagon (327 chevy) Project (Now Buick 225) 1980 Corvette L-48 4 speed 1992 Mustang GT built 5.0 5 speed 1985 C10 LWB Sold 1982 K10 SWB plow truck Parted out 1986 D30 M1028 fire brush truck Parted out Last edited by 84 400; 10-20-2009 at 01:26 AM. |
10-20-2009, 10:23 PM | #3 |
Watchin the rust grow
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western Nebraska
Posts: 950
|
Re: 79 K10 and lift questions
Thanks for the reply. This truck will be doing mostly mud running stuff, but there are some trails around here, but I'm sure there not much of anything. I'm really leaning towards suspension lifts because i have never liked the idea of throwing blocks of iron under your leaf springs and calling it a lift.
Would it be worth keeping the stock half-ton axles? Or would it be a smarter idea to go to a D-44 or something similar?
__________________
1979 Chevy K10 (H/D Front end) - 350 w/ Holley Truck Avenger, Weinald Intake manifold, headers, bored .060 over, mild cam, Built up TH350 (TranStar Shift kit) with a part-timed NP203 t-case SOLD ($3,000) 1997 Chevy Silverado 1500 - 4.3 vortec, extended cab, 21 highway MPG, stock. "Red" SOLD ($3,000) 1987 Toyota 4wd Pick-up - work in progress, future DD SOLD ($1,850) 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5spd Quad cab - old 12 valve with some work done 2004 Chevy Silverado - Black, 4x4, 5.3L, stock for now Underneath that rust is a heart of gold
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10-20-2009, 10:38 PM | #4 |
Certified Hobbiest
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Sacramento, Ca
Posts: 384
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Re: 79 K10 and lift questions
a dana 44 would be an upgrade but not by a whole lot. ten bolts and d44 are real similar but ive herd the d44 is the better of the 2. you can find a 3/4 or 1 ton rear and just upgrade the d44 outers to 3/4 tone outers if you dont wanna upgrade to a d60.
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10-20-2009, 11:04 PM | #5 |
Watchin the rust grow
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Western Nebraska
Posts: 950
|
Re: 79 K10 and lift questions
What would be a decent 3/4 ton axle for the rear? I don't think I really need a D-60 as I'm not running 40 inch tires or slopping threw small lakes.
It's more a daily driver with capability and will be driven hard on the weekends.
__________________
1979 Chevy K10 (H/D Front end) - 350 w/ Holley Truck Avenger, Weinald Intake manifold, headers, bored .060 over, mild cam, Built up TH350 (TranStar Shift kit) with a part-timed NP203 t-case SOLD ($3,000) 1997 Chevy Silverado 1500 - 4.3 vortec, extended cab, 21 highway MPG, stock. "Red" SOLD ($3,000) 1987 Toyota 4wd Pick-up - work in progress, future DD SOLD ($1,850) 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins 5spd Quad cab - old 12 valve with some work done 2004 Chevy Silverado - Black, 4x4, 5.3L, stock for now Underneath that rust is a heart of gold
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10-21-2009, 09:56 PM | #6 |
Sb 400 club
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: NH / MA
Posts: 2,746
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Re: 79 K10 and lift questions
Well for a 3/4 rear you have the 14 bolt semi Float. Or the 14 full float (much better axle).
I am still 6 lug and plan to stay that way for a while. I am running 34's and have not had an issue. I also don't just floor it in the woods......... I would not bother going to a half ton D44 even tho you can later change to 8 lug outers. Not worth the time to me.
__________________
1984 chevy c10, built 400sb,.(SOLD) 77 K10 Project / daily driver "The Grinch" http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=318363 1956 Willys Wagon (327 chevy) Project (Now Buick 225) 1980 Corvette L-48 4 speed 1992 Mustang GT built 5.0 5 speed 1985 C10 LWB Sold 1982 K10 SWB plow truck Parted out 1986 D30 M1028 fire brush truck Parted out |
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