Do I need a new Voltage Regulator?

[aero-pilot]

here is the problem...

I have notice that a few electrical components are not operating as fast as they should when my lights are turned on.

My thermostat reads to low or to high, the blinkers are to slow, and the windshield wipers are slow as well. This only occurs when the lights are on.

So would this mean that my voltage regulator is bad? I just replaced the alternator. My lights do not pulsate or show signs that the alternator might be defective. Any thoughts? Thanks for the help. I'm sorry I haven't posted lately, work has kept me away.

[STOCKISH]

Dont you have an internally regulated alternator? Sounds to me like you have a ground problem. Make sure the ground cable from the battery is in good shape and not corroded. Also it should have a good clean connection to the engine. Then make sure you have a good ground from the engine to the frame and from the frame to the body. Good luck.

[aero-pilot]

Yeah I do have the internally regulated. On the internally regulated alternators can the voltage regulator still go out? I'm assuming that they still have a regulator. Thanks I'll check the ground.

[aero-pilot]

all battery grounds are good. What do you think about this picture? Showing the side of the alternator.

[CSGAS]

It does sound like bad grounds...there are many grounds to check out.

If you have a batter post cleaner, use it; if not, spend $1.99.

Clean every ground locating, including where the light harness bolts go to the core support, all the braided grounds along the frame, the bolt and washer going into the head through the battery ground,the light sockets (the post cleaner comes in handy again here) and housings (they ground through the outside to the body), horn ground, dimmer switch, everything you can imagine, and then look for more beyond your imagination.

That alternator connector looks corroded/oxidized, too...I bet a simple "Help" connector or some catalog Street Rod $2 connector with wires already in it ("pigtail" can be found and spliced a couple inches back where the copper wire is still in better shape. Contact cleaner on some other connections should prevent the same in other places.

Also check out you fusible link between the battery and the junction block, it feels a little spongy even when it's good and it won't show anything visibly but if a system gets overworked, like fighting the resistance from corrosion, parts like the fusible link or the thermal breaker in the alternator will start overheating or smoking.

[2tons of fun]

tha is the excite and signal wires.

yes a internal reg can still go out. when they do go bad the voltage on the gauge should wonder up and down with rpm and load.

[68 TT]

Replace that pigtail at the alternator. It looks like it is badly corroded and could be causing all your problems.

Cover the top of the connector where the wires are exposed with dielectric grease after you get the new one on. It will keep it from doing that again.

[Truck Dr.]

I know that this may sound stupid, but you said you just replaced the Alt., a lot of times new or remans will not put out at spec, they will be like 13.7 or .8 this small amount will make a difference in how things operate, I'm assuming that the reason you replaced the Alt. is that it completely quit charging or did you replace it chasing the problem describe above ?? if the previous one is the case then go back to AZone with it on the truck and have them test the system and see what the results are.


Dave

[aero-pilot]

Ok sound like I have some fun stuff to do this weekend! I will replace the pigtail and check all the grounds I can imagine and the ones I can't imagine.

No I replaced the alternator because it flat didn't work. I also remplaced the battery the same time. That's a good idea! I'll take the truck to a parts store and see if they can test the alternator and get an exact number.

Yeah and I should mention that my volt guage is broken too! That's the only gauge that doesn't work, I promis I'm going to fix it!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by aero-pilot

Ok sound like I have some fun stuff to do this weekend! I will replace the pigtail and check all the grounds I can imagine and the ones I can't imagine.

No I replaced the alternator because it flat didn't work. I also remplaced the battery the same time. That's a good idea! I'll take the truck to a parts store and see if they can test the alternator and get an exact number.

Yeah and I should mention that my volt guage is broken too! That's the only gauge that doesn't work, I promis I'm going to fix it!

You should take just the alternator to the parts store. They can spin it up on their machine this way and test it properly. On the truck all they can do is check output voltage without being able to put it under load.

[Truck Dr.]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

You should take just the alternator to the parts store. They can spin it up on their machine this way and test it properly. On the truck all they can do is check output voltage without being able to put it under load.

Personally I'd do both, since it is on the truck see what it puts out there, if it is putting out spec on the truck chances are it will on a bench.
The way to load it is to turn on lights, heater or A/C etc. to load the system.

Also, is the belt properly tensioned and in good shape ??, if not when under load it may slip and cause the problem.


Dave