how much will front end parts run me??

[Tx Firefighter]

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

thanks for info and replies. my parts came out a bit less. but might not have had right amount of parts. ill try and re price acorrding to the things you put up. i dont have access to presses. guess ill price and try and buy parts and then get pricing on labor?

[jasonroman]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

Part Price Core Quantity Total Remove
1982 CHEVROLET C10 PICKUP 5.7L 350cid V8 (L)
Steering : Tie Rod End
MOOG Part # ES409RT
Frt Strg; Outer; Problem Solver
$18.69 $0.00 $37.38
MOOG Part # ES409LT
Frt Strg; Inner; Problem Solver
$18.69 $0.00 $37.38
Steering : Idler Arm
MOOG Part # K6096T
Frt Strg; Problem Solver
$34.99 $0.00 $34.99
Suspension : Ball Joint
MOOG Part # K6117T
Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver
$26.89 $0.00 $53.78
MOOG Part # K6136
Frt Susp; Upper
$34.79 $0.00 $69.58
Suspension : Control Arm Bushing
MOOG Part # K6138
Frt Susp; Upper
$17.45 $0.00 $34.90
MOOG Part # K6422
Frt Susp; Lower; Problem Solver; Provides additional ride and performance handling benefits
$55.79 $0.00 $55.79
Steering : Pitman Arm
MOOG Part # K6143
Frt Strg; w/P/S; Exc. Variable Ratio P/S


total is a little under 400
looking to order this stuff tomorrow.
i think for shocks im gonna get 4 belltech lowering springs.

[74 C-30]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

^^makes me feel better about myself

i just did upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my truck, and I am in no way a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. i had the advantage of a nice air compressor and impact wrench, but i didn't use any forks on either ball joints or tie rods, just the hammer method, bash the spindle 'til it pops out. to get the lower ball joint out I brought the a-arm to school and used the press. i honestly didn't think it was too hard, just take you time, think things through, and get a repair manual

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 74 C-30

^^makes me feel better about myself

i just did upper and lower ball joints and tie rods on my truck, and I am in no way a mechanic, just mechanically inclined. i had the advantage of a nice air compressor and impact wrench, but i didn't use any forks on either ball joints or tie rods, just the hammer method, bash the spindle 'til it pops out. to get the lower ball joint out I brought the a-arm to school and used the press. i honestly didn't think it was too hard, just take you time, think things through, and get a repair manual

Just make sure you leave the castle nuts on the ball joint studs most of the way so when the ball joint breaks free of the press fit it has on the spindle nothing goes flying. After the initial release you can jack up the lower a-arm and take the nuts the rest of the way off and lower the a-arm to release the spring pressure the rest of the way.

[SIXT8LOU]

Originally Posted by Tx Firefighter

I didn't mean to stir up controversy with my post, but I find that sometimes on this board, prices tend to be under reported.

If you read my blog, you will see pictures and a blow by blow report of me rebuilding a front suspension. I spent right at 800 bucks for parts alone. That's good parts, not parts store knock off stuff. I've done this more than a few times before, and I shop hard for prices.

To do the suspension and no brakes, you will need:

2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 pairs of upper control arm bushings
2 pairs of lower control arm bushings
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
1 idler arm
1 pitman arm
2 shock absorbers

Honestly, it's not a job for the meek or timid mechanic. Several of the parts can be quite difficult to change. Control arm bushings are pressed into the arms and require either good technique and a shop press or medieval work with an air hammer. Lower ball joints are also pressed in. You can get a tool on loan from most parts stores to do this, but if you have the arm off pressing in new bushings, you should just go ahead and press in the ball joints too. It's much easier that way.

I'd say front suspension work is far and away the most physically taxing kind of work you can do to a truck. The stuff is heavy and it is usually stuck tight in place.

QUESTION... little mixed up,,i know the LBJ is pressed into the A arm...the control arm bushing? is that the cross shaft your referencing? thanks