Do we really need to sandblast the frame

[Baby John]

Towed the frame out of the shop last night with the 4-wheeler, and soaked it down with degreaser and pressure washed the heck out of it two or three times. Obviously there was some scraping and re-soaking between pressure washing to get the gunk off the really greasy spots, but for the most part the frame is rust free. There may be some small areas with very very light surface rust but nothing a wire brush wouldn't handle.

We were planning on taking the frame to be sandblasted, but it just doesn't look like we'd benefit at all from that. In fact I'm thinking it may be detrimental because I've seen some pitting develop after sandblasting.

My question is, "if my frame has no rust, would there be any real need to sandblast?". Also, I'm worried about how the engine degreaser is going to affect the adhesion of the frame paint. How do you guys recomend treating the metal just prior to spraying the frame paint?

FWIW, I am planning on using the Eastwood frame paint.

[UltraBlue71]

Sandblasting would give you a better adhesion surface for your primer/paint but like you said, it aint broke so why bother, You might just wipe it down real good with surface cleaner/prep before painting, blow it dry and shoot, you could paint a portion, and let it cure and see if you are satisfied with the results...
You are right about the degreaser, I imagine it would cause the paint to wrinkle....

[C20-67_N_MO]

Originally Posted by Baby John

My question is, "if my frame has no rust, would there be any real need to sandblast?". Also, I'm worried about how the engine degreaser is going to affect the adhesion of the frame paint. How do you guys recomend treating the metal just prior to spraying the frame paint?

FWIW, I am planning on using the Eastwood frame paint.

I would think that the engine degreaser would be netrualized or diluted with your power-washer.

And like UltraBlue71 pointed out the sandblasting process would help once it came time to paint the metal.

As I am getting very close myself to doing this process as well. And have not given it a second thought....my frame and suspension parts will be blasted. Most of my parts will be stripped to be convetered to 1/2 ton suspension parts and braking. Will make reassembly much easier once everything is primed and painted better than factory condition.

Good luck either way you decide to go.

[cdowns]

sandblasting does not cause any pitting or rusting issues//poor followup prep work prior to pnaint causes those issues to arise

[my67chevytruck]

I would sand with 80 grit after you have cleaned with the power washer. Then use a good automove wax/grease cleaner , let it dry, then prime and paint. This is what i did with good results.

[Dan in Pasadena]

My $.02 on this subject is I've come full circle.

I too always read magazine articles, other guy's posts about sandblasting their frames. Then I got my '46 which has an impressively clean frame with little or no rust and thought, "...why would you go to all the work of blasting this?"

My plan is to do the minor degreasing it needs, power wash it, sand the whole thing down with 80 grit using (OMG say it ain't so!) an ELECTRIC sander, not a DA running off a huge vertical compressor, and then I'll paint it.

Sure, its not going to look like a powder coated frame. But my truck (like I THINK most here) will be a nice driver, a weekend runner, not a show truck. How many times do you get down on your back to look at the frame? With paint, I'll be able to touch it up easily. All this will cost a fraction of the other approach, not to mention take a LOT less time and I'll be satisfied. I'm not sure I'd be much happier if I had the unlimited time and money it took to take the truck down to the frame and blast/powder coat it.

[chaptr2]

If you are planning on using some of Eastwoods products, then just taking a wire brush and or wire wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder instead of sanding. It will save you the cost of getting it sandblasted, money I'm sure you could use on something else.

I have degreased frames with engine cleaner and a scraper to get the build up off. I used a few cans of Break Clean after the degreaser, not only to clean more, but get the little build up off. It doesn't matter what brand you use, I even like to use the Low VoC break cleaner. It won't leave a residue that will affect your paint or under coating and it works really well due to the high pressure spray.

I personally like the Eastwood's brushable Rust encapsulator for all my under coatings even floor boards and trunks of cars. My stepside hasn't had a bed on it for 5 years and it has been outside for at least three with very little protection and it still looks great.

[Dan in Pasadena]

While on the subject of brake cleaner - if you have one, periodically stop off at your local 99Cent store. When they have it, they usually have STP brand brake cleaner. I buy $10 or $20 worth. It doesn't go bad and 99 cents is WAAY cheaper than the local auto parts store. You've just gotta be patient about stopping in occasionally.

[unclewatts]

If you want to get rid of any oily residue, just use lacquer thinner. It works well and costs far less than any brand name cleaner. Watch out though, it's highly flammable.

[BossHogg69]

I'm at this point myself and do not want to blast the frame, since the frame is pretty nice and has good paint on it from under the cab back. It was frame-off'd in 1990 or so, by my grandfather, and he used that heavy red oxide marine primer as a base and then painted it black. My question is, on the front rails and crossmember, the paint has wrinkled and peeled, but the primer is still solid. I have degreased and pressure washed it already. Should I take a wire wheel to it and take it to bare metal or just clean up the spots where the paint has peeled re-prime it and paint again? The primer has seen it's share of brake fluid (the m/c was leaking bad when I got it) and grease, even after cleaning it good will the new primer paint stick okay? I had planned on wiping it down with lacquer thinner/mineral spirits before priming/painting anything.

[lakeroadster]

Really depends on what you plans are. Sandblasting is great if there is pitting or surface rust in areas that can't be accessed by standard mechancial means and you are building a show truck -or- if you have access to really cheap sandblasting.

It's easy to go over the top on a project. Sandblasting is intrusive and I don't like to use it on any assembled parts or on anything I can clean up myself just becasue of the mess it makes.

Doesn't sound like any of the above are the case for your project. Like "my67chevytruck" said earlier just be sure that you sand with 80 grit before priming. This will give the surface some teeth for the primer to hold on to.

[seafoam68]

I guess it really depends on your app. I had mine blasted simply because I wanted a very clean "fresh" start. Blasting will get to every nook and cranny and you will not have to worry about any contamination for paint. I had a local blaster do mine for charge of two hours time at 80.00 an hour. This was a guy who does industrial blasting, not an auto speciaist, who I'm sure would have charged more. But for something tough like the frame, he did a fine job, and it was well worth it for me to not have to work for hours with a wire brush ! I just pulled it home and immediately primed and painted. Good luck !

[lolife99]

I agree with seafoam68.
You might prep the big areas without much trouble,... but you can't get to all the tight spots without sandblasting.
I only want to paint my frame once,... so I will be sandblasting mine.

[independentcustoms]

I have them sandblasted. Costs about 200 bucks, but to me its money well spent