Bummed Out!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I removed all the head bolts and it seems pretty well on there should I tap it with a rubber mallet?

There are a couple shorter bolts on each end under the valve cover area that can be covered with oil and can easily be out of sight.

[Libertad]

Only saw these on the pad on the front passenger side of block
VO2 19UA

Thanks for your time 68TT

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I got those two bolts out as well. Should the heads be easy to pull off or are they usually stuck on there pretty good?

Only saw these on the pad on the front passenger side of block
VO2 19UA

Thanks for your time 68TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

I will let you know the bore once I get the heads off but it does seem to be a 307 engine, #'s by the bell housing are 3956632 probably made in 1969.

[Libertad]

Ok another question I have 882 heads are these heads any good? I may want to put them onto a 350 short block when I find one.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

Ok another question I have 882 heads are these heads any good? I may want to put them onto a 350 short block when I find one.

333882's are probably the original heads to the truck. Nothing fancy but they will work to make decent power maxing out at about 330 to 340 hp.

Low compression with flat to pistons and they are unleaded compatible unlike the heads that came on that 307.

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

They can be stuck on there pretty good. I had to use a long pry bar to break mine loose after 30 years on the engine. I was afraid I was going to break the head casting I had to pry so hard.

With only two letters at the end of the code shows it is a 1969 & earlier block.

1970 & newer had three letter codes. Make sure there isn't one more letter there. All the UA_ three letter code engines are 1981 vintage 305's that came in half ton trucks.

A UA code small block is a 1969 truck 200 hp 2-bolt main 307 cubic inch motor.

Put a tape measure on the cylinder bore and let me know what it shows. A 307 has a 3-7/8" bore so it should be obvious that it is not a 4.00" bore like a 350 or 327. A 305 is just under 3-3/4" bore.

Either UA code engine is not worth the effort to rebuild it when damaged.

Definitely 3 7/8" Thanks for your help. Will post more pics when I pull this thing.

[Libertad]

I may buy one of these 350 blocks

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uMITlGfDI48

The first block has the 010 & 020 under the timing chain cover. I'm pretty sure it has been rebuilt one time at .030. This casting is the strongest block Chevy made in the Gen 1 version of their 350 (my opinion). The date code is D281 and the front engine code is V0504TBA. I am selling this one for $300. If I was running this on the street, I would probably hone it, build it, and run it. There is absolutely no ridge at the top of the cylinder wall and it looks awesome.

The second block does not have the 010 / 020 under the timing chain cover. However, it is a standard bore. (It does have 010 under the front cover.) The date code on this one is G217 and the front engine code is V0727TYY. I am selling this block for $325.

any thoughts?

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by Libertad

I may buy one of these 350 blocks any thoughts?

Depends on what you want to do with the truck.

What kind of power are you looking to build?

[Libertad]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

Depends on what you want to do with the truck.

What kind of power are you looking to build?

reliable daily driver with mild cam