Starter shims? Do you use em?

[AJLChase]

Just curious, it didn't look like the last starter used them but the new one came with them. I turned the engine on after installing a new flex plate and starter and it ran fine for a little bit, then I heard some heavy duty clunking around down there, so I turned it off and am afraid to turn it back on. Do most of these use shims? Or could the unbolting hte tranny and torque converter and putting them back on some how thrown off the alignment?

[Bus Ted Knuckle]

I use them if it needs it. You need to measure the distance between the bendix teeth and ring gear teeth. That is what the little bent rod is for in the starter box.

[vectorit]

In all the years I have been tinkering with these Chevy's, I have never had to use those things.
If I did come to a realization that they had to be used, then I'd probably tear everything down to find out why.
To me, they are a patch for something else that isn't right. But that's just me...

[chevydog66]

I purchased a new NAPA gold starter for my 72 GMC sbc last year, and it wasnt' right from day one. I tried 1 shim, no shims, all the shims, shims on just one side, and nothing fixed the starter gear from making the noise. I even took the starter back and exchanged for a different one. I had to get a different nose from an old original GM starter in order to fix the problem. So don't core your old starter until you listen to your new one.

[Longhorn Man]

you would have been $$ ahead not getting that from NAPA. Starters and altenators are pretty crappy there.
There batterys pretty much blow too.

Some starters need shimmed, some don't. None of my small blocks ever needed them (one 400 and two 350s) but all my big blocks (two 425s, one 500, one 402 and now my 454) all needed shimmed.

[AJLChase]

What are the sounds/results to determine if your starter needs shimmed? Does it just plain not start? Start hard?

[Tom Vogel]

Originally Posted by Bus Ted Knuckle

I use them if it needs it. You need to measure the distance between the bendix teeth and ring gear teeth. That is what the little bent rod is for in the starter box.

THIS is correct.

[Richard H.]

" I turned the engine on after installing a new flex plate and starter and it ran fine for a little bit, then I heard some heavy duty clunking around down there, so I turned it off and am afraid to turn it back on"
Sorry ,but that doesn't read as a starter problem.
more like a loose , broke flex plate or converter not seated right.

[scott123]

same boat here. never used them on a chevy. just put a new one on had some alignment issues. ruined the flywheel teeth. i changed the head of the starter to an older GM one I had laying around and no longer had the problem. or, when i replaced the flywheel i could have re-aligned from the first time...not sure....good luck...s

[ripdog28]

If it was making noise after it started, it is not your starter. A starter problem will make noise only when you are cranking it over. you will hear grinding or slipping.

[cparman]

been practicing this auto repair thing for a couple of years. I kind of agree with Longhorn Man. Whenever I get a phone call from another shop owner it usually starts with " who's starters are you using this week ? " I am a big fan of ACDELCO starters and alternators for our trucks, and most all GM cars and trucks. Motorcraft for our competitors. I will use NAPA for most all brands with pretty good sucess.

You never know where the block or the starter you have has been. Some have posted that the right way to check the clearance is to use a 1/8th inch pin to be sure that you have the proper spacing. It can be hard sometimes to see the wear on a flywheel ring gear, but ya gotta start somewhere

[rsavage]

If I remember correctly, last year when I was restoring my 70 shortbed 4X4, I bought a rebuilt NAPA starter and couldn't get it to mount up correctly. had it in and out several times. I had turned in my old starter when I picked up the rebuilt, so I went back up to the store and compared them. The problem was that the nose on the rebuilt starter had been replaced during the rebuild and it was thicker at the end which caused it to hit the the cast bellhousing on the inside. I had another older starter laying around that tested good so I ended up using that one that had a narrower nose. I have a 307 4 speed combo. I wonder if clearance issues with newer noses are a common problem?

[fredm98]

Like Richard said, if it made the noise while running it sounds more like something broke or loose than needing a shim.
On the other hand, if it only sounds bad while cranking then it could need shims or maybe the starter itself is flexing? I had a problem once with a high compression big block eating starters. The final solution ended up being two-fold.
1. Install the support bracket that connects the tail of the starter to the engine block.
2. Get a starter with the cast iron (rather than aluminum) nose piece. I dont recall the part # but I think it was for a early 70's Corvette.

[69heavychevy]

never used them either, thats because i just use a starter from a vortec motor which doesnt use shims. plus its a gear reduction starter which makes it alot quiter to begin with. as far as brand i have no preference, its all the same rebuilt junk in my eyes...for now i just use oreillys' stuff since i work there.

[GASWAGON]

Originally Posted by Bus Ted Knuckle

I use them if it needs it. You need to measure the distance between the bendix teeth and ring gear teeth. That is what the little bent rod is for in the starter box.

X2 If the rod didn't come with the starter use a piece of wire etc. 0.30 thick to measure the spacing. You need to pull the bendix gear out and measure the distance from the top of the tooth to the flexplate.

[rogergodding]

never used shims til now, always had the old style starter and didn't need them..... got the red high torque starter from skip white on ebay and he recommends them, so I put them in and it works great!!!