I'm rewiring my '55.2, have a question and will probably have more as I go...

[terd ferguson]

I doing a complete rewire on my '55 2nd series and have a question. First the background info. I got a complete factory style replacement harness like the catalog places sell. I got it from my local chevy truck shop guy, Dixie Truckworks. They're local and he's a hell of a good guy. But being it's Sunday, I can't call for advice. The harness is good quality, but the wires are not factory colored. They are all numbered and come with "instructions" that show where each wire goes. This brings me to my question...

My first issue is with the generator wiring. There are two terminals on the genereator. There are two numbered wires for these two terminals. The instruction sheet shows wire #25 goes to "Generator (F Terminal)" and it's a blue wire. It shows wire #26 goes to "Generator (A Terminal)" and it's a larger red wire. The wires that came off were both black and the same size. So which goes where?





I appreciate the help and I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go along. It's a little more complicated in some ways and less complicated in other ways than I thought it was going to be. I'll get it done, especially with the help of all of you guys. Thanks a bunch.


***EDITED TO ADD***
This is a 235/generator truck. I should've included that info too.

[OrrieG]

On the factory wiring diagram the Field wire is a 20 ga., the A is 16 ga. Here is a copy for you, this one does not have all the detailed info the factory diagram has. I also have large scanned copy out of the factory assembly manual I can email you, it is way to large to post here. If you want it send me a PM. Sounds like some one has already rewired part of the truck and did not follow the original wire sizes.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

On the factory wiring diagram the Field wire is a 20 ga., the A is 16 ga. Here is a copy for you, this one does not have all the detailed info the factory diagram has. I also have large scanned copy out of the factory assembly manual I can email you, it is way to large to post here. If you want it send me a PM. Sounds like some one has already rewired part of the truck and did not follow the original wire sizes.

You probably forgot, but you already sent me a big version of the diagram. I appreciate it too. It helped me get the truck back running. Things were wired waaaay wrong under the hood. It's surprising it even ran. There was no resistor, no wire going to the starter side terminal and numerous cut and worn wires. And with everything so jacked up, I decided a new harness was definately in order.

I guess my question now is on the generator, which is the A and which is the F? Imagine I'm standing at the front of the truck looking in the engine bay. One generator terminal is on the left and the other is on the right. Sorry if it's a dumb question, it won't be the last.

Thanks a bunch for the help.

[terd ferguson]

Question #1 was which terminal is "F" and which is "A" on the generator? Standing at the front of the truck, one is on the left and one is on the right.

I figured out the generator. It's marked which terminal is which. It was just covered in grime.


Now for question #2. On the voltage regulator, there are three terminals, top to bottom (vertical). On the instruction sheet, it says wire #3 (red) goes to "B Terminal", wire #11 (brown) goes to "A Terminal", and wire #12 (blue) goes to "F Terminal". Again standing at the front of the truck looking into the engine bay, which is which?



Thanks again for the help.

[terd ferguson]

I ran into another issue, so I decided to stop for today. I broke of the little bolt on one of the generator terminals. Here's what I've got done so far...

Headlights and park lights
starter and coil
generator (minus broken bolt)
dimmer switch under the hood

I've still got the voltage regulator and relays under the hood and then everything under the dash and the brake lights. I learned some and got even more confused. I'll get back at it tomorrow. I'd like to be able to drive this again soon, lol. But as always, everything I do takes 5 times longer than I think it will. So on that note, I'll be done on Friday.

[OrrieG]

Looking at the voltage regulator with the connections on the bottom the left is BAT, center is GEN and right is Field. They should be labeled on the bottom of the cover or on the back of the regulator. Bat goes to the battery, Gen to the A terminal on the Generator and Field to the F terminal on the Generator.

Don't forget to polarize the generator before starting the engine. Connect a jumper from the BAT terminal of the regulator to the A terminal of the generator, it just needs to touch for a second.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

Looking at the voltage regulator with the connections on the bottom the left is BAT, center is GEN and right is Field. They should be labeled on the bottom of the cover or on the back of the regulator. Bat goes to the battery, Gen to the A terminal on the Generator and Field to the F terminal on the Generator.

Don't forget to polarize the generator before starting the engine. Connect a jumper from the BAT terminal of the regulator to the A terminal of the generator, it just needs to touch for a second.

Thanks for that too. While we're on the generator, how do I fix the broken stud? lol.

[OrrieG]

Originally Posted by terd ferguson

Thanks for that too. While we're on the generator, how do I fix the broken stud? lol.

I looked in my old repair manuals. It looks like it is an insulated screw that needs to be replaced from the inside. The book is not specific on how that part goes together. If you need detailed disassembly/ assembly instructions LMK and I can scan them and email them to you. Or I have a good 12v generator that was working when pulled in 1985 that I will give you a good deal on (shipping may kill you).

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

I looked in my old repair manuals. It looks like it is an insulated screw that needs to be replaced from the inside. The book is not specific on how that part goes together. If you need detailed disassembly/ assembly instructions LMK and I can scan them and email them to you. Or I have a good 12v generator that was working when pulled in 1985 that I will give you a good deal on (shipping may kill you).

I was afraid of that. I'm gonna see what I can do with mine. I appreciate the help and the offer. I'll be sure to post up what happens though.

[terd ferguson]

Another point of confusion...

Am I correct that the drawing shows only one relay under the hood (horn relay)? My truck has three relays on the firewall and they were wired up crazy like a monkey did it with chewing gum and electrical tape (there is also a bank of 4 switches on the dash that didn't control anything I could find). Again, it's a miracle this thing ran at all, lol. Along with that, I only plan to run lights (no modern high powered lights or extra fog lights), horn and a radio (no amp). And maybe a heater later. Will I be good with just the stock horn relay?

And another thing under the hood regarding the temperature sender on the engine...
The drawing shows a wire going from the engine through the firewall to the temp gauge. On my block, there is a stiff piece of metal wire (like a coat hanger) running from the engine through the firewall. I'm not sure what's on the other side, I haven't gotten that far yet, lol. What exactly am I missing? Can I get one of those SunPro type temp senders for aftermarket gauges to work with the stock gauge?



And yes, I've spent two days and am still wiring under the hood, lol. Under the dash and the tail lights should be a lot easier. At least when I get done, I'll know it's been done right. And thanks again for the help.

[steve53]

Originally Posted by terd ferguson

I was afraid of that. I'm gonna see what I can do with mine. I appreciate the help and the offer. I'll be sure to post up what happens though.

i broke both of those stupid bolts on a generator.

to fix it, i took the end cap off the generator and pulled the old specialty bolts out and put a standard bolt in from the inside out.

i used plastic washers and wrapped the section of the bolt going through the generator housing with a little electrical tape to make sure it didnt ground out on the generator housing. used a nut on the outside to keep it nice and tight.

then i soldered the wires that originally went to the specialty bolts on the inside of the generator to the back of my new bolt heads. worked like a charm.

its a little bit of redneck engineering but it works.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by steve53

i broke both of those stupid bolts on a generator.

to fix it, i took the end cap off the generator and pulled the old specialty bolts out and put a standard bolt in from the inside out.

i used plastic washers and wrapped the section of the bolt going through the generator housing with a little electrical tape to make sure it didnt ground out on the generator housing. used a nut on the outside to keep it nice and tight.

then i soldered the wires that originally went to the specialty bolts on the inside of the generator to the back of my new bolt heads. worked like a charm.

its a little bit of redneck engineering but it works.

Good to know it's not that complicated. Thanks.

[terd ferguson]

Just thought I'd offer a little update. It's taking longer than expected, but I'm at least making progress. Some non-stock wiring additions had me pretty crossed up. For one, the three relays instead of one. Another was the temp sender.

I found out only one relay is stock (horn relay). The other two were added for something? They were all three wired together in places, wierd. Must've been some extra electrical accessories at one time. The temp sender I have in my truck is entirely mechanical while the harness had a wire for an electrical temp sender. I'm leaving the stock sender in place for now. I'm looking for a couple of cool vintage gauges to go under the dash for the temp and oil. When I find those, I'll convert it to electrical.

So far, I got everything under the hood wired. I got the gauge panel out (not without a struggle) and all the old wiring cleaned out from under the dash. I'm going to tanke apart and clean up the gauge panel tomorrow and get all that wired up. After that, it's just the gas tank, dome llight and stop lamps/turn signals. Should be easy from here on out. I hope one more day will do it, but probably not knowing my luck.

I also got a lead on a '57 big back window truck for super cheap. It's supposed to be apart but complete with a 355 olds mill to go with it (not in the truck). I'm going to check it out this weekend. I'd love to have the big back window. We'll see.

[OrrieG]

A wiring tip I got somewhere (probably here) is to leave the guage cluster wiring long so you can hook it up before shoving it back in. Coil up the extra and wire tie it up out of the way. Next time you have to remove the cluster you can pull it out without rewiring the whole works. Some one also mentioned using different ways to mount the fuse box using magnets, velcro (I'm looking a using a hinged panel) with extra wire so you can drop it to add circuits or replace fuses. Saves a trip to the chiropractor in the future! Using those releys for auxilary light was a hot trick in the 70's. I used some on my 6V VW to run the driving lights, stock ones did not put out enough light to see with.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by OrrieG

A wiring tip I got somewhere (probably here) is to leave the guage cluster wiring long so you can hook it up before shoving it back in. Coil up the extra and wire tie it up out of the way. Next time you have to remove the cluster you can pull it out without rewiring the whole works. Some one also mentioned using different ways to mount the fuse box using magnets, velcro (I'm looking a using a hinged panel) with extra wire so you can drop it to add circuits or replace fuses. Saves a trip to the chiropractor in the future! Using those releys for auxilary light was a hot trick in the 70's. I used some on my 6V VW to run the driving lights, stock ones did not put out enough light to see with.

Good tips. It's mostly the speedo cable and oil and temp sender that keeps the gauge cluster from coming out very far. I'm gonna change both of those to vintage aftermarket gauges under the dash soon. I like "real" oil pressure and temp readings.

[terd ferguson]

I got back on it today. This thing is giving me a fit. I got the gauges wired up. When it came to the headlight switch, I got stuck. I got the knob out, but the bezel isn't coming off. Somebody else already wallowed the opening out so I can't get anything on it to turn it. I got mad and gave up for today, lol.

[terd ferguson]

I went and bought a new headlight switch, knob, and bezel today. Got yet another question though. My instructions show four wires going to the ammeter and there are four terminals on the back of the ammeter. They say connect one wire to terminal "A", one to "B", one to "C" and one to "D". How do I know which terminal is which on the ammeter?

Thanks again for the help.

[terd ferguson]

Can anyone offer any suggestions for the four terminals on the ammeter? Thanks again.

[terd ferguson]

Originally Posted by terd ferguson

Can anyone offer any suggestions for the four terminals on the ammeter? Thanks again.

I figured it out. I only have three wires that should go the ammeter. There is no "A" or "B" terminal on the ammeter. I was misreading my instructions. There is only "D" and "C" and they correspond to the "D" and "C" side of the actual ammeter face (Discharge and Charge). I had somehow misread the instruction sheet, "A" and "B" are used elsewhere for the voltage regulator and it's right near the ammeter in the wire list.

Here's what's left to wire up...

Four wires to the ignition switch
Headlight switch to ground (not included in the harness)
Fuel tank sender to dash and ground
Stop switch to tail lamps/turn signals

The bottom line is I've learned a whole bunch about how wiring works by taking this on. I no longer see a jumble of wires under the dash, I see pathways. I have had to troubleshoot electrical issues on other vehicles in the past. Now that I've rewired this truck, any electrical issues that pop up should be a piece of cake now that I understand the pathways.

Also, I got my harness from a local dealer, Dixie Truckworks. Hell of a nice guy and I like to spend my money locally when possible. The harness was the same price as Brothers' and LMC's factory style replacement harnesses. There are not provisions in my harness for the cigar lighter or dome light. You can use the harness I got with or without turn signals. It also allows you to use the original stop lamps for turn signals eliminating the need for seperate lights on the rear causing visual clutter.

Bottom line is the factory style replacement harness is a little more expensive than a universal harness. But it saves you the added expense and time since you don't need to add connectors to each and every wire you run. My harness was also already well taped up and all the wires cut to the proper length, saving even more time.

Just thought I'd post up some thoughts since I've been intimate with this harness for a week now, lol.

[steve53]

Originally Posted by terd ferguson

The bottom line is I've learned a whole bunch about how wiring works by taking this on. I no longer see a jumble of wires under the dash, I see pathways. I have had to troubleshoot electrical issues on other vehicles in the past. Now that I've rewired this truck, any electrical issues that pop up should be a piece of cake now that I understand the pathways.

hell yeah brother! get er' done!