Throttle Cable Problem

[toddtheodd]

72 c-10 with a 350 and edelbrock carb.

Ok... so the original throttle cable broke on me, so I ordered one from LMC. When I got it, it went in no problem...
BUT
Where the original cable kinda did this "S" turn thing to go from the firewall to the carb, the new cable does not. It does a giant "C", and where it connect to either the carb, or the firewall, it is at a horrible angle, cause the throttle cable to stick when pushing on the gas (but not when letting off... )
I tried zip tying a think piece of 1 gauge electrical wire to the throttle cable to force it into the "S" curve, but it's not working too well... and the throttle still sometimes sticks.
What can I do to fix this?
Is there a shorter cable maybe?
Who else hates it when stuff that is supposed to work, doesn't?

Toad

[mclairmo]

Can you shorten that cable?

[toddtheodd]

I don't think so... it's not a universal one...
Or at least... I don't know how to shorten it.
I wonder how the hell the got the original one to do the "S" curve...

[mclairmo]

I would study the cable and see if you can shorten it at either end without destroying it. Or, find a shorter one. Or, try a universal one such as a Lokar.

[toddtheodd]

I'm looking at YearOne right now... and they have different ones for the K series and the C series (4x4 and 2x4)...
Does anybody know... are the K series cables longer than the C series???

[Longhorn Man]

k series would be shorter, the engine is closer to the firewall

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Longhorn Man

k series would be shorter, the engine is closer to the firewall

Hmmm... it's not too expensive from LMC... maybe I'll order a K series one and see if it's too short...
Thank you,
Toad

[gator2511]

I bought a throttle cable and fittings from Lokar and used that until I wore out the cable. Now I buy a replacement cable from Advance and trim the cable and sheath to fit and use the set screw lockar pieces to fasten the cable. I don't have an "S" in my cable. The Lokar piece is a little pricey but getting the cable to fit now is no problem. I used to carry a long piece of string in case the cable broke and sure enough one day it did. I tied the string to the carb linkage and ran it through the firewall and had a hand throttle to get me home. Now I carry an already cut to fit spare in the back.

[mclairmo]

With those kinds of problems with the cable breaking I would convert to the older style throttle rod. Never seen one of them break before.

[Longhorn Man]

while you are right, a throttle cable is way safer, which is why they went to them. The rod will bind if/when the motor mount seperates... GM had a recall on this that included our trucks.
Plus, it is VERY rare to have a throttle cable go bad.

[gator2511]

The main problem I had was the bracket was not lined up correctly. Since I fixed that I have had no problems but when you are miles back in the woods during hunting season you might want a spare just in case. I guess my main point was that you could get a good fit with the Lokar stuff.

[big_al_71]

+1 on using the lokar cables. I used everything I could from Lokar products oil dip stick, tranny dipstick, tranny shifter, throttle cable and I am super happy...If you look at this pict below you can see the throttle cable straight from the firewall no "S" or curves..

[Classic Heartbeat]

GM intentionaly made the cables too long. Like when the linkage binds going to the carburetor when the motor lifts when the motor mount brakes, when the cable is too short it will pull the accelorator. Either way you will be in for a ride!! WES

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

GM intentionaly made the cables too long. Like when the linkage binds going to the carburetor when the motor lifts when the motor mount brakes, when the cable is too short it will pull the accelorator. Either way you will be in for a ride!! WES

That's groovy and all... but how did GM get the bloody things in the "S" shape? Should I bend a 3 foot long one gauge cable into the correct shape, zip tie it to the throttle cable, and throw the whole bloody thing in the oven for 30 minutes at 300° and then throw it directly into the deep freeze after to see if that will... mold it into the correct shape?

Toad

[Classic Heartbeat]

I don't believe they molded it. That was just the shape that the cable took after instalation. Any GM cable I have ever sold were strait to start with. I wouldn't toss the cable into the oven, you might just cause it to colapce around the cable. WES

[71 super]

How long is the cable LMC sold you? They are not generally very long to begin with. The 4x4 unit as Andy said is shorter as the motor sits much closer to the firewall. I have not got a cable that has a "s" curve in it. They may have a slight bend but nothing more than that and both of mine are GM units FOR these trucks, which were still available from GM as of last year. I don't have a part number handy for you to use but if no one else can get one I will check for you. LMC has a tendency use stuff that is "close enough".

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Classic Heartbeat

I don't believe they molded it. That was just the shape that the cable took after instalation. Any GM cable I have ever sold were strait to start with. I wouldn't toss the cable into the oven, you might just cause it to colapce around the cable. WES

I think that is the problem. When LMC sent it to me, it was "curved" in the packaging. It's been a pain in my patooty to get it OUT of that shape now.

I will measure mine either tomorrow or the day after (after I kick this freakin flu), but I was wondering if anybody could tell me what the lengths are. For 350 2wd, 350 4wd, and 402?
That way I can compare and know which I have.

Todd

[FRENCHBLUE72]

I have only used lokar and love them...

[71tahoe]

My original cable got a little worn and when I swapped to a V8 it had to be replaced soon after. I mounted the new one and gave it a little twist so it was more like a corkscrew than an "S" and it worked great for 16 years then started to bind like you're describing.

I replaced it with a spectre from Autozone and it was OK. The cheapo plastic bushing pulled through the pedal because of my son's size 14s (and bull-in-a-china-closet mentality) but I put on a small steel washer and no more problems.

Then sold the truck so REALLY no more problems.

[Alex Hayley]

For those that have used the Lokar cable, the instructions say that an extra inch of cable housing should be added to the straight line distance from the firewall to the throttle mounting bracket. This will handle most normal engine movement. I realise that it is not possible to alter the length of the stock/factory cable housing but it should give you an idea of how much of an "S" or "C" should be in between the firewall and bracket.

[rogergodding]

got one of the universal cables from Pepboys and it works great.

[gmc1971harwich]

i have the same problem im running a 67 327 and 700r4 in my 71 and at part throttle it sticks and i have to hit the gas harder for it to go faster

[toddtheodd]

Originally Posted by Alex Hayley

For those that have used the Lokar cable, the instructions say that an extra inch of cable housing should be added to the straight line distance from the firewall to the throttle mounting bracket. This will handle most normal engine movement. I realise that it is not possible to alter the length of the stock/factory cable housing but it should give you an idea of how much of an "S" or "C" should be in between the firewall and bracket.

I would say that my "stock" cable from LMC is about 4 to 5 inches longer than the straight line from firewall to throttle mounting bracket.