Help, Quick. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 03:19 PM

Finally got around to installing my new intake. Having trouble stabbing the distributor. Doesn't want to engage the oil pump shaft. Can I bump the motor with a remote starter to get it to drop in?

C20-67_N_MO · 12-19-2009, 03:24 PM

Sounds like the intake is a bit too tall for the dizzy to get sitted properly.

But yeah try bumping the engine over and see if fall into place.

Heck it cant hurt at this point right?

GL

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 03:26 PM

Intake should be O.K. Edelbrock Performer EPS. The gear is engaged just doesn't want to line up with the oil pump shaft.
I just don't want to mess up my cam or distributor.

CCCC · 12-19-2009, 03:27 PM

If all else is correct (cam, gear, etc.) you should not have to turn the engine - just insert the dist in the approximate correct position - without the cap - and rotate the dist shaft a little bit until it drops in. If the dist will not drop into place at all it must be something other than gear to gear positioning.

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 03:29 PM

It's dropping in, it's just the last 1/4" to get into the oil pump shaft.

Arad68 · 12-19-2009, 03:30 PM

Use a long standard or flat blade screw driver to position the oilpump drive rod. Spinning the engine to line it up will only lead to problems.

mr48chev · 12-19-2009, 03:56 PM

That's pretty normal. You can bump the engine over to let it drop or do as Arad68 said and turn the oil pump drive a bit with a long screw driver to get it to line up better. 90 percent of the time they do not just drop right back in when you reinstall them.
The only problem you might run into by bumping the engine over to let the distributor drop is that you may have it a tooth off but you can check that by bringing the engine back up on #1 and making sure it is in time. If it is a tooth off you simply lift it back enough to move it a tooth and go again. It's a bit of trouble but it is a normal thing that one ends up having to do when installing these distributors.

You don't have to "spin" it just bump it a bit with the remote starter or key.

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 04:56 PM

O.K. bumped the motor got it to drop. Did something dumb and tried to start it but forgot to plug in the distributor to the cap. Now I'm not getting any spark. Could I have fried my coil or module? HEI. I have 12 volts at the distributor.

haysonj · 12-19-2009, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinister

O.K. bumped the motor got it to drop. Did something dumb and tried to start it but forgot to plug in the distributor to the cap. Now I'm not getting any spark. Could I have fried my coil or module? HEI. I have 12 volts at the distributor.

Pull the cap and make sure the rotor is turning. trying to fire the engine without the cap plugged in will not hurt anything. If you have 12 volts at the cap on the right plug ( not the tach) you may have a bad module.

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 05:26 PM

Rotor's turning. Kind of weird that the module would go out, worked fine yesterday. I guess I'll pick up a module tomorrow. Think I should get a coil as well?

haysonj · 12-19-2009, 05:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinister

Rotor's turning. Kind of weird that the module would go out, worked fine yesterday. I guess I'll pick up a module tomorrow. Think I should get a coil as well?

It does seem strange that it would quit like that. Pull the cap off the coil and check the wires coming in. I'd only buy one at a time because I don't think they are returnable.

Sinister · 12-19-2009, 05:35 PM

O.K. Now I have spark. Didn't have the key in run position while using the remote starter. DOH.

I'm giving up for today. Might try to restab the distributor tomorrow and go over the new carb. For some reason it just won't fire.

71meangreenc10 · 12-19-2009, 06:43 PM

It happens.......

Smitty

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 01:09 PM

O.K. got it to start this morning. I think the carb might be bad. Remanufactured Edelbrock. Trying to hunt one down locally. Doesn't want to idle, have to give it a lot of gas to get it to run at all. Could it be the float adjustment?

Longhorn Man · 12-20-2009, 01:49 PM

assuming it was running fine before the intake swap... have you tried backing the timing down?
If it was a carb and intake swap... have you messed with the adjustments of the carb? They don't just swap new parts into a carb and ship it, they get tested on a flow bench first.

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 01:53 PM

It was a carb and intake swap. I can't get it to run to make any adjustments. I suppose I could open up the idle mixture screws a bit and see if that helps. Can't adjust the timing cause it won't run.

cparman · 12-20-2009, 02:08 PM

I might suggest that you retrace your steps.
DID IT : run good before the intake/carb swap?
DOES IT: look like the dizzy is in about the same place as before? Is the vacuum advance in about the same position?

If it were me, I would disable the ignition. Pull the coil wire or remove the power feed to the HEI. Remove the #1 spark plug, and have someone bump the motor while you have you finger covering the spark plug hole. Get #1 up on compression by bumping the starter. When compression pushed you finger off the plug hole, check to see where the timing pointer is in reference to TDC. If it is close, turn the engine by hand until you get it exactly on TDC. Then pull the dizz cap and see where the rotor is pointing in reference to #1 on the dizzy cap.
Sounds like you may be a tooth off, in relation to the dizzy and #1 on the cap.

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 02:15 PM

Timing is good, it's at TDC. I did the finger over the sparkplug hole method and pulled a valve cover to check that the valves were closed. It ran great before, it's definitely a carb issue.

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 05:10 PM

Woo hoo, got it running. Adjusted the choke, and revved it up. I think there was some dirt or something in the idle circuit, plus adjusting the choke helped. Need to tune it up tomorrow and hopefully get around to installing my LFD '72 gas pedal set up. Thanks for the help guys.

haysonj · 12-20-2009, 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinister

Timing is good, it's at TDC. I did the finger over the sparkplug hole method and pulled a valve cover to check that the valves were closed. It ran great before, it's definitely a carb issue.

Sounds more like a major vacuum leak. check make sure you didn't have a gasket slip or you have the wrong manifold for the carb. square bore or qjet

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haysonj

Sounds more like a major vacuum leak. check make sure you didn't have a gasket slip or you have the wrong manifold for the carb. square bore or qjet

See above post. Running alright now just need to tune it.

haysonj · 12-20-2009, 05:44 PM

Sorry i'm a slow typer

Sinister · 12-20-2009, 05:52 PM

No problem. Thanks for the assistance.

12-19-2009, 03:24 PM	#2
C20-67_N_MO Champagne Taste on Beer Budget Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: High Ridge, Missouri Posts: 2,190	Re: Help, Quick. Sounds like the intake is a bit too tall for the dizzy to get sitted properly. But yeah try bumping the engine over and see if fall into place. Heck it cant hurt at this point right? GL __________________ Coming Soon: Project 1970 Country Truck

12-19-2009, 03:26 PM	#3
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. Intake should be O.K. Edelbrock Performer EPS. The gear is engaged just doesn't want to line up with the oil pump shaft. I just don't want to mess up my cam or distributor. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-19-2009, 03:27 PM	#4
CCCC Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: San Pedro River, SE Arizona Posts: 734	Re: Help, Quick. If all else is correct (cam, gear, etc.) you should not have to turn the engine - just insert the dist in the approximate correct position - without the cap - and rotate the dist shaft a little bit until it drops in. If the dist will not drop into place at all it must be something other than gear to gear positioning. __________________ CCCC 67 Sting Ray Coupe 327 4sp; 68 K10 Suburban 327 4sp; 69 K20 Lifted 383 4sp; 69 C80 Fire Truck 478 V6 5sp/2sp; 69 C20 Longhorn 327 4sp; 70 C30 Wrecker 350 4sp; 70 C30 Flat Bed 350 4sp; 71 C20 LWB 350 4sp; 72 K5 Blazer 350 4sp; 72 C30 Flat Bed Gooseneck Hauler with sleeper 350/TH400; 72 C20 Longhorn 402 4sp; 52 Mack LTL Supercharged Cummins 5sp x 3sp; 01 Dodge 5.9 HO Cummins 6spd; 02 Safari Trek 2430 8.1 Vortec on Workhorse Chassis; 03 Silverado 2500 HD 4wd Duramax/Allison Moved but still in the family 70 C20 Custom Camper 350/TH350; 72 K5 Blazer CST Highlander 350/TH350 Recently sent to new homes 72 C30 MoHome 402 4sp; 72 K5 Blazer Conv 350 4sp; 75 GMC 6000 Aerial 350 w Allison; 72 GMC 3500 Utility 350 4sp; 70 GMC 3500, 350 4sp

12-19-2009, 03:29 PM	#5
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. It's dropping in, it's just the last 1/4" to get into the oil pump shaft. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-19-2009, 03:30 PM	#6
Arad68 Trucks N Tranzams Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: North Las Vegas, Nevada Posts: 816	Re: Help, Quick. Use a long standard or flat blade screw driver to position the oilpump drive rod. Spinning the engine to line it up will only lead to problems. __________________ Don '68 Chevy LB 383 TH400/GV/373 posi '56 Chevy 4WD SWB '64 Chevy short stepside '79 Trans Am 455/TH2004R/12blt/4whldisc 95 Kia (Wifes car) 2002 S-10 extended cab pickup "God punishes small sins immediately" Last edited by Arad68; 12-19-2009 at 03:31 PM.

12-19-2009, 03:19 PM	#1
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Help, Quick. Finally got around to installing my new intake. Having trouble stabbing the distributor. Doesn't want to engage the oil pump shaft. Can I bump the motor with a remote starter to get it to drop in? __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 12-19-2009 at 03:20 PM.

12-19-2009, 03:56 PM	#7
mr48chev Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Toppenish, WA Posts: 15,443	Re: Help, Quick. That's pretty normal. You can bump the engine over to let it drop or do as Arad68 said and turn the oil pump drive a bit with a long screw driver to get it to line up better. 90 percent of the time they do not just drop right back in when you reinstall them. The only problem you might run into by bumping the engine over to let the distributor drop is that you may have it a tooth off but you can check that by bringing the engine back up on #1 and making sure it is in time. If it is a tooth off you simply lift it back enough to move it a tooth and go again. It's a bit of trouble but it is a normal thing that one ends up having to do when installing these distributors. You don't have to "spin" it just bump it a bit with the remote starter or key. Last edited by mr48chev; 12-19-2009 at 03:58 PM.

12-19-2009, 04:56 PM	#8
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. O.K. bumped the motor got it to drop. Did something dumb and tried to start it but forgot to plug in the distributor to the cap. Now I'm not getting any spark. Could I have fried my coil or module? HEI. I have 12 volts at the distributor. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-19-2009, 05:26 PM	#10
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. Rotor's turning. Kind of weird that the module would go out, worked fine yesterday. I guess I'll pick up a module tomorrow. Think I should get a coil as well? __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-19-2009, 05:35 PM	#12
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. O.K. Now I have spark. Didn't have the key in run position while using the remote starter. DOH. I'm giving up for today. Might try to restab the distributor tomorrow and go over the new carb. For some reason it just won't fire. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-19-2009, 06:43 PM	#13
71meangreenc10 Its a Truck Thing...... Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Sierra Vista, Arizona Posts: 3,159	Re: Help, Quick. It happens....... Smitty __________________ 71 C10 283/3SPD Full Resto 71 GMC 1500 Sierra Grande http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=518599 70 C10 Suburban Former military GSA truck. 72 Chevy Blazer 4X4, Sloppy Jo, Mountain Climber. Wife says no more trucks. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=707378 72 GMC 1 Ton Motor Home, wife said no more trucks until she saw this one. Gen 3 6.0/4L80E 4.10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=761110 68 GMC Suburban was 3/4 ton, now 1/2.Wife shook her head 71 C30 Wrecker 71 C20 Scott-Bilt As weird as it gets..BB Cheyenne AC Truck 68 GMC Long Stepside. They keep following me home 71 C20 Longhorn/Ole Yellor 69 C30 Former Motor Home, Flat Bed time

12-20-2009, 01:09 PM	#14
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. O.K. got it to start this morning. I think the carb might be bad. Remanufactured Edelbrock. Trying to hunt one down locally. Doesn't want to idle, have to give it a lot of gas to get it to run at all. Could it be the float adjustment? __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-20-2009, 01:49 PM	#15
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Re: Help, Quick. assuming it was running fine before the intake swap... have you tried backing the timing down? If it was a carb and intake swap... have you messed with the adjustments of the carb? They don't just swap new parts into a carb and ship it, they get tested on a flow bench first.

12-20-2009, 01:53 PM	#16
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. It was a carb and intake swap. I can't get it to run to make any adjustments. I suppose I could open up the idle mixture screws a bit and see if that helps. Can't adjust the timing cause it won't run. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-20-2009, 02:08 PM	#17
cparman sharp as a marble Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: atlantic beach,florida Posts: 1,082	Re: Help, Quick. I might suggest that you retrace your steps. DID IT : run good before the intake/carb swap? DOES IT: look like the dizzy is in about the same place as before? Is the vacuum advance in about the same position? If it were me, I would disable the ignition. Pull the coil wire or remove the power feed to the HEI. Remove the #1 spark plug, and have someone bump the motor while you have you finger covering the spark plug hole. Get #1 up on compression by bumping the starter. When compression pushed you finger off the plug hole, check to see where the timing pointer is in reference to TDC. If it is close, turn the engine by hand until you get it exactly on TDC. Then pull the dizz cap and see where the rotor is pointing in reference to #1 on the dizzy cap. Sounds like you may be a tooth off, in relation to the dizzy and #1 on the cap.



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12-20-2009, 02:15 PM	#18
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. Timing is good, it's at TDC. I did the finger over the sparkplug hole method and pulled a valve cover to check that the valves were closed. It ran great before, it's definitely a carb issue. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-20-2009, 05:10 PM	#19
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. Woo hoo, got it running. Adjusted the choke, and revved it up. I think there was some dirt or something in the idle circuit, plus adjusting the choke helped. Need to tune it up tomorrow and hopefully get around to installing my LFD '72 gas pedal set up. Thanks for the help guys. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

12-20-2009, 05:44 PM	#22
haysonj Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Santa Maria, Ca. Posts: 1,423	Re: Help, Quick. Sorry i'm a slow typer __________________ 69 Chevy 4x4 383 Power

12-20-2009, 05:52 PM	#23
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: Help, Quick. No problem. Thanks for the assistance. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 12-20-2009 at 05:52 PM.

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