lowering with trailing arms? also lowering ?'s

[dmartin1]

ok this might sound a bit stupid but im not sure on how to lower with trailing arms.

my dad has done only leaf spring through the years.what do you do to lower with trailing arms?is it hard/a ton of work to do a nice lower job with trailing arms?i dont want this thing ON the ground but i'd like to have it pretty low.


also...its a patina rat rod type truck so i dont really care that much about ride quality,its a nice rot bucket with a mild 327 and turbo 400.so i know theres always cutting the front coils to lower it down,our friend did it and it slammed down quite a ways.looked good too.
whatys the deal with cuttin/heating springs?


these trailing arms are confusing me because the rear coils are like a beehive shape.

sorry about my ****ty typing its dark,my light blew out in my room and im half asleep.

[kev2809]

drop springs and drop blocks. porterbuilt also makes 3" drop trailing arms. there is a member on here who did cut down his rear springs, but once you do that your spring doesn't bolt to the trailing arm anymore...so if I were you I would get drop springs and blocks. that's about 6" there. front can be drop springs and/or drop spindles. could go with the cheap route and cut em, but I would do a forum search on that before you try it.

[Hottrucks]

cut 1 loop off the front and put the springs back in then look at the truck and decide how much drop you want in the rear..once you figure that out drop blocks will drop it 2 or 3 but after that your going to need a C notch to let the axle clear the frame..you can also heat the rear springs ( not advised) or use a set of spings out of a Monte Carlo body style gm car or CJ jeep that is

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

......you can also heat the rear springs ( not advised)....

The general concensus is to discourage offering this suggestion as advice. It's just too cheap and easy to use a method that won't eventually fail.

Not the same spring, but this is the potential results of a heated spring.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

cut 1 loop off the front and put the springs back in then look at the truck and decide how much drop you want in the rear..once you figure that out drop blocks will drop it 2 or 3 but after that your going to need a C notch to let the axle clear the frame..you can also heat the rear springs ( not advised) or use a set of spings out of a Monte Carlo body style gm car or CJ jeep that is

To avoid confusion, C-sections are not needed until you reach the 6" drop dimension in the rear.

2" or 3" blocks (2" for smaller dia wheels; 3" for 17" & larger is 'safe') & some dropped coils work well. The blocks are installed between the mounting pad of the rear-end & the top of the truck arm. This spaces the rear-end up a farther distance vs. stock thus dropping the truck. Drop blocks are specific for truck arms (generic drop blocks @ the local parts store aren't the same) & require matching longer u-bolts.

Front drop can get about 3" from cutting one coil off of OE springs; about 2" of drop if they were replaced @ some point in time.

[Hottrucks]

Notice my disclaimer next to that

Scotti I think if you drop the front 2 or 3 your going to be looking at dropping the rear about 6 in the rear to get it flat..thats why I was thinking the c notch??

option B.... is to bag it put drop spindles then an X member and to Z the frame front and back to lay frame...alot depends on what you want and how much time and $$$ you have its like a bad drug once you start it hard to stop getting lower theres not bottom until your on the ground

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

Notice my disclaimer next to that

I'm not calling you out. The reason for my statement was for clarification. You mentioned 2-3" blocks & then said "after that" will require c-sections.

Since it takes double that drop before c-notches are needed, I wanted to make sure it was clear there was up to three additional inches of drop (in addition to the blocks) to go before he had to start thinking about cutting the frame.

[Hottrucks]

thanx I was just putting info out there I hope he does his homework before he starts its all here on the board if he wants to look or persue it

[firedog]

i hope he finds a light bulb to use before he goes hacking on the truck.. also another lowbuck would be to swap out the rear coils for something smaller like out of a car

[Ronm909]

I went down this road.. it never ends. I just wanted a little rake at first... I did the c notch and lowered springs at first........ then swapped the springs for bags..... then did a full 10" step notch....now its a full back half 4 link with a dropmember..... mark these words!!!!!

[63chevyll]

the jeep springs work real well, I Have use those,

I also have used new GTO springs

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by Hottrucks

Notice my disclaimer next to that

Yeah, I just wanted to clarify. You and I know the down side of it, I wanted toi make sure he does too.

Originally Posted by 63chevyll

I also have used new GTO springs

You wanna share? This is a new one for me. What year, etc.

[Hottrucks]

Originally Posted by Ronm909

I went down this road.. it never ends. I just wanted a little rake at first... I did the c notch and lowered springs at first........ then swapped the springs for bags..... then did a full 10" step notch....now its a full back half 4 link with a dropmember..... mark these words!!!!!

LMFAO...thats no lie

[dmartin1]

well im trying to do the lowest i can without doing a LOAD of work.anyone got a pic of a truck with a 6" drop in the rear?

and 6" rear and like 3" front evens out?

so anyone got info and specs on what to exactly do for the rear for like 6" drop or whatever?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by dmartin1

well im trying to do the lowest i can without doing a LOAD of work.anyone got a pic of a truck with a 6" drop in the rear?

and 6" rear and like 3" front evens out?

so anyone got info and specs on what to exactly do for the rear for like 6" drop or whatever?

6" rear drop = 2" block & 4" spring. You could try the jeep/GM a/g body car coils but my experience is 2-3" max drop w/those coils. If they're free, it's worth a shot. If you have to pay for them, spend the $$ on 4" drop springs.

[77chris03]

I have a question on this subject also. I will upload pics as soon as I get rubber. K. Here goes. I converted the whole driveline to disc and 5 lug. It's orig. a 68 swb. Everything is 1971 spindles and had to go thru 6 sets of control arms to find a good set. I bought some drop springs 2/4. 200 bucks for the whole set. If I go with the 2" drop springs in the front and 4" in the rear will a 2" lowering block level the truck off? It would then be a 2/6 drop. The weight of the engine should bring the front down a lil but.....I don't know. Someone please pm me so I know what to do.

[77chris03]

Motor is as follows. 1970 sbc350 .040 over. Makes a 357. Nothing overkill. All federal mogul or speedpro except main, rod, and cam bearings are clevite. Flat top 4 valve releif pistons. Rv cam(440/460) and 1.6 alum roller rockers. Cloyes double roller timing chain. Crane pushrods edelbrock performer with holley 600 elec choke with holley 80 gph mech fuel pump. All billet alum brackets and stainless hardware. Don't know how to upload a pic or I would of the engine. Someone told me my combination is gonna be too much for the 68 swb I'm building. 357 with 700r4 and 3.07 limited What do u think?

[77chris03]

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[63chevyll]

Originally Posted by N2TRUX

Yeah, I just wanted to clarify. You and I know the down side of it, I wanted toi make sure he does too.
You wanna share? This is a new one for me. What year, etc.

the new GTOs, i think 2003 and newer, rears

there are alot of people upgrading the suspensions around here,

with my race truck(avatar) ive been trying differnt springs to try to set up suspension on differnet tracks,

The GTO's lower about 3 inches, they ride way softer than stock, but with good shocks i was happy