Finally put in the 455.... BUT...

[Stainless]

Well.... after some welding.... and some swapping, I put that Olds 455 in my 70 C10.... it's not running yet tho.... got the headers on, everything looks good, except the engine angle. With the stands that I have.... there is no way to lower the motor any more and fit the headers (or any exhaust manifold for that matter)... I am measuring between 6º and 7º.... there is no more room to raise the transmission either without cutting into the fw....

What is the best way to measure the angle (I used the valve cover with a ruler and level)..... and can I live with 6 or 7º?

thx....
~S

[Longhorn Man]

I don't know degrees....just the 45degrees, 90degrees ect...
However, your tranny clearance issues, is it hitting the firewall...or the trans tunnel on the floor board.
You could possably install a hugh hump section.
You have any pics? I love seeing this kind of stuff.

[marcuspboldt]

Hehe "Got any pics" ?

Don't show him any pics you'll only encourage him

On a serious note though stainless you have pretty much tapped

the source on getting another of G.M. motor's to fit in one of our

trucks ,as Longhorn seems to have done this sort of thing before.

And welcome to the board!

[Stainless]

I've got about ½" or ¾" around the tranny, and a couple of inches above the tail. That ½ to ¾ is to the flange that sticks out of the f/w around the bellhousing.... so I could pretty easily bend that up out of the way and pick some up....

At what point does engine angle start to affect carb floats & oil sump?

Here's a pic.... but still a work in progress..... oh... and I'm not doing anything about the rust.... I have to win the "most rust" contest at the ohio gathering!!

[crazy longhorn]

Stainless,check the level on the top of the intake(where the carb sits).......I think you will find you arent too far off. My sb has a 4 degree angle as mounted in the truck(crank centerline), but the carb sits level. When I ran the Olds, it did have a little nose height issue, & I helped the situation by raising the trans crossmember using solid 1 " blocks between the crossmember & the frame. The angles still werent "perfect", & the carb had about a 2 degree slope to the rear. It didnt cause any problems tho. The lip was trimmed off the bottom of the firewall for clearance on the trans........Longhornmail has a good suggestion on the high hump floor, that should take care of the clearance problems. You need to watch the driveline angles.......if the trans is pointed 4 degrees down, the rear diff needs to be pointed 4 degrees up. on the front half of the shaft(2 pc), the front u joint needs to be pretty much straight , or the shaft should have the same angle as the trans. the rear half of the shaft will have the angles split on the U joints (if the trans is 5 degrees down, the rear diff needs to be 5 up as an example), so they cancell ea other as they rotate(no vibe). There is one shot of the Olds mounted in my truck,here are pics.... http://community.webshots.com/user/hotrodhorn good luck,crazyL

[biglou55]

stainless what motor mounts /crossmember /etc. etc. etc. did you use . what years. I have a 455 out of a 73or 76 i was thinking of putting in my 71 short step.

[andyr354]

I would think the easiest mounts to use would be from a late 70's early 80's truck that had a factory olds 5.7 diesel in it.

[Stainless]

Yea... from what I've put together, the stands and mounts from the late 70's early 80's with the 5.7 liter diesel would be the way to go, but I couldn't find any around here, so I used what I had.

I had the stands from the inline 6, shaved the humps off and welded in plate steel, cut slots then got mounts from a '69 442 (the ones with the studs).... I had to add shims to make room, and actually switch the towers around.... but it is looking good I think. You can move the mounts forward on the block too if you need more room. Let me know if you decide to do it. I can take pics or whatever.... Next step is posi rear.... and some extra tires!!


~Sean

[Solarus1981]

From what I've heard... the motor needs to sit between 2 and 5 degrees, measured at where the intake meets the heads.... never really looked at it myself.