Bagging the 72'?

[PrimeredThunder]

OK guys, I'm really getting serious about doing this. The only problem is I'm in Highschool, So i'm building on a High school budget...
I'm not really wanting to lay frame, just have the adjustablity and give it a good drop when I want.
Heres what I need to know, since this will be stretched out over a long time, what modifications should be done first? I was thinking a C-notch would be best, but where can I find one? I would prefer a bolt on style as my Welding skills arent amazing and I want to keep costs down. Also for you guys that have done this before what parts did you need(parts list would be great). I've heard you can do it a lot cheaper by piecing it together. Pics would be great too. As you can probably tell, I'm a newbie to this stuff...I'll attach a picture of where I'm at right now...appreciate any help.

Heres a few ideas I've got...

http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...ch/c-notch.htm

http://www.classicperform.com/produc...-Track-Bar.htm

http://www.classicperform.com/produc...ension-Kit.htm


Thanks,
Kenny

[PrimeredThunder]

Heres the picture...

[XXL]

Air bags are a mostly bolt-in process these days. Take a look at Air Ride Technologies for an absolutely superb kit that has everything you'll need. I do recommend you go with more than 3 gallons of air tank and the requisite larger compressor to support a larger tank.

If you want to do it in parts, you can get all the bags in and fill them with schrader valves (like bicycle tubes have) until you can afford the air system. Then get a 2-way air valve setup, which will give you front to rear control, then expand that to 4-way so you get 4 corner control. You'll want to make the jump to 4-way fairly soon after 2-way as the truck will tend to lean a lot when going around corners because the air squishes from one side to the other in a turn-- the 4-way will fix this problem.

Also, do a search on this site for posts from Slammed67, me, and others as this topic has been discussed quite a bit... so there's lots of good info out there.

Kenneth

[Riveted1]

Wow, Kenny, that's a beautiful truck!! I agree w/XXL, go w/the Air Ride Tech. set-up. They've done all of the hard work for you. If you don't have all of the money right away, I would wait until you do. Slowly building up a system might allow you to learn more about bagging, but I don't think you'll be happy until you have a full 4-way set-up. Just my $.02!

[low 84]

that bolt in notch you posted looks kinda wimpy. mine and all the others i've seen use alot more bolts. mine use 12, 1/2 bolts, compared what looks like 4 they are using. mine is on an 84, but a frame is a frame, just dosent' look very strong compared to mine.

[Slammed67]

Low 84 - I have that CPP c-notch on my truck and it is pretty strong. There are actually 4 more bolts that are on the bottom of the notch that aren't visible in the picture.

[XXL]

Originally posted by low 84
...but a frame is a frame, just dosent' look very strong compared to mine.
[img]

I'd have to disagree with that statement. The steel used in your '84 is very different than that used in the older trucks. It is much more tensile. And in the case of '88+ frames, they are verrrrry different metal. You don't want to go drilling or otherwise heating (torch, plasma, etc.) on high tensile steel without keeping the heat under control.

And now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

[low 84]

Originally posted by XXL


I'd have to disagree with that statement. The steel used in your '84 is very different than that used in the older trucks. It is much more tensile. And in the case of '88+ frames, they are verrrrry different metal. You don't want to go drilling or otherwise heating (torch, plasma, etc.) on high tensile steel without keeping the heat under control.

And now, back to your regularly scheduled program.

yes i relize this, i'm not trying to go into physics and metalergy. the point i was trying to make, is that my pic was my notch on an 84. so the WC notch for a 67-72 might not be the same shape, but i still would want it supported just as well no matter what year the truck/frame is. i didn't see that that notch had 4 more holes from the pics i say on the site. i wouldn't think twice about drilling 12 holes per notch in an older frame, if you drill correctly and take your time you can keep the heat under control enough to not have any significant effect on the tensile. do you go correct everyone on the site that calls there engine a motor? , lol.

[Shane]

in the spirit of correcting others ... its metallurgy ...

just messin' with ya ...

[67cst]

shane, ya beat me to it! haha and i dont usually spell that great but i just finished taking metallurgy last month at the end of my welding course

[XXL]

Originally posted by low 84
do you go correct everyone on the site that calls there engine a motor? , lol.

So we're not allowed to present differing points in this forum now? Lighten up.

[PrimeredThunder]

Thanks for all the help guys, I appreciate it. I'll probably do a 2-way setup for simplicity and to keep costs down for now, I know I can always upgrade it later. So if I were to go with Air Ride tech's kit, what else do i need? Where is the best place to pick-up the compressor, valves, tank etc for a god price? Also if anyone has any pictures of there setups that would be great.
Thanks,
Kenny

[lost wages]

heres the air ride tech kit, i wouldnt buy a kit, now that ive learned a little about air setups its much cheaper to build your own.

[XXL]

Originally posted by lost wages
heres the air ride tech kit, i wouldnt buy a kit, now that ive learned a little about air setups its much cheaper to build your own.

I'm all for DIY as well, but Air Ride Technologies stands out in the crowd. About 8 weeks ago I had a stuck valve... probably from condensation and the fact that it was freezing cold up here. I called Tony up and let him know the problem and after a few emails to work out exactly which version of their valve I had, he sent one out... gratis. These things are almost 4 years old! That's the level of service I've ALWAYS received from them and that's worth cold hard cash in my book. Putting together your own pieces and parts is fine, but if you ever run into problems, A.R.T. is there to help however they can.

Kenneth

[lost wages]

i agree, sometimes you pay extra but its worth it for the service, i also have the art valves, and if i ever have a problem( or get this thing on the road) i hope to get great service from them also. I think the brackets can be made at home, tanks you can get where ever, bags everyone sells, valves are the main thing you want to be careful about buying.

[XXL]

Originally posted by lost wages
i agree, sometimes you pay extra but its worth it for the service, i also have the art valves, and if i ever have a problem( or get this thing on the road) i hope to get great service from them also. I think the brackets can be made at home, tanks you can get where ever, bags everyone sells, valves are the main thing you want to be careful about buying.

Agreed... and there are several on the board who have made their own brackets. They're actually pretty straightforward for these trucks. The front top is a plate that covers the spring pocket and bolts to the pinched lip around it. Bottom is a piece of tube with a flat round plate welded to the top of it. Rear tops are basically the same as front bottoms, and rear bottoms are just flat round plates. (I think I got that right ) ). A.R.T. is high on their tank prices but I think they're ASME certified (either that or they're just making lots of profit on them). If you go with the Thomas 315 compressor (which is marginal for more than 3-4 gallons), there are cheaper places to get them than from A.R.T. I run a pair of 315's filling a pair of 3 gallon tanks, which is plenty of air for my needs and the compressors stay fairly cool.

Kenneth

[PrimeredThunder]

This is great guys, like i said, really appreciate all the help you've given me. I'm probably going to piece this system together and try to make it as cheap as possible for me. I have access to get some SMC 3/8 valves for cheap as well as a Viair 450 compressor. How much drop can i expect if I use say a 2" notch with 2" blocks in the rear and bags and brackets up front? I might run into exhaust diffucuties and clearances since i have full-length headers and 2.5" tubes that are mounted under the frame...Any more pics of setups you guys are running as well as where you mounted all your valves, compressors and tanks etc would be great. Maybe someone could photochop that picture of my truck from teh beginiing of teh post to show me what kind of drop I can expect?

Thanks,
Kenny

[JHickson6]

Sorry to hijack this thread but those pictures bring up another question about the rear bag brackets. If you mount the bags in the factory spring location how hard is it to access the mounting bolts and air fitting on the top of the bag. For example lost wages frame is covered up by that crossmember, so how hard is it to install and tighten down the bag and the air fitting. recently I've been thinking about having the bag mounts a little inboard so that everything is accesable. Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

Jared

[ol skool 68]

ok here's my $.02 worth........if you are gonna bag the truck, go with air ride technologies kit!! i have a 2000 s-10 that had one of their original 4-link rear and front bag kits............i had lots of problems for the first year due to the fact that the installer is a FREAKIN IDIOT. i would have liked to have taken his welder to his butt cheeks to show him what a true weld looks like......BUt since he was already full of sh*t i decided against it............however anytime i ever had a problem with a part, Tony from air ride would warranty the defective part or worn out part, NO QUESTIONS ASKED!!! that earned my repeat business! however DG CAR AUDIO in jacksonville florida completely sux and will only receive what is coming to them!!

[nosto]

I went with AirLift and got the front, rear and air control system. Very pricy, but good quality and complete. Installed easy, too.

My only concern right now is the unusual location of the rear bag mounts. (see image top view, below) They are located about 6" OUTBOARD on the trailing arm. I have junkyard 225/75X15 tires on the rear and have only about 3/4" clearence between the tire and the outer edge of the lower bag mount. I'd really like to go a bit wider (245-255/45X20) back there and right now, it doesn't look promising. My first thought was to drill a few holes in the mount, closer inboard, and hack off the outer 2" of the mount. This will give me a bit more room.
But, I ask myself, why should I have to do this????

I asked AirLift, but did not get a response that explained why they were in this location. I'll be heading to the tire place in a few weeks; maybe it'll all work out??

[JHickson6]

I thought Air lifts brackets were supposed to mount the bags inboard, is it possible to swap the driverside and pass side around?

[Slammed67]

No, I'm pretty sure they are designed to be mounted as shown in the picture. Besides the price, that's another reason why I decided not to buy that kit.

[JHickson6]

Damn i'm sorry to keep buggin you with questions Jason, but how accesable are the upper bag mounting bolts and air fitting? Is that crossmember in the way of those bolts?

[XXL]

Originally posted by JHickson6
If you mount the bags in the factory spring location how hard is it to access the mounting bolts and air fitting on the top of the bag. For example lost wages frame is covered up by that crossmember, so how hard is it to install and tighten down the bag and the air fitting.

I'm using the Air Ride Technologies brackets and I can access the air fitting in a matter of seconds with no problems. I can completely remove the bag in less time than it takes to get the ratchet out and crawl under the car.

Kenneth

[>X<]

like XXL said, Air Ride will be very helpful in your project, thats where my friend who has a bagged 96 got all his stuff from, and we sent him prob 20 emails before it was completely finished. Good company