Static vs Air Ride

[GKsport67]

Can anyone tell me if the ride difference between the two?

[JWall]

Air (when done correctly) rides a lot better than static.

I've had both. If you are trying to decide between the two it will just depend on several things including your budget, the use of the truck, etc.

[N2TRUX]

There are so many variables that it's very hard to give a short answer. If done properly with quality components and tires that have a bit of sidewall, a static drop will ride great. In some cases it might ride better than stock.

That same theory applies to air suspension. If done properly with quality components, it will rid very good too.

What you have to consider is the elements that usually accompany a bagged vehicle. Typically a bagged truck will have low profile tires, shorter shocks, etc that combined will limit travel and create a firmer ride.

[GKsport67]

I would like to go a 4x6 F/R disc REDcalipers, drilled rotors real high quality stuff. I like that nose dive stance. I wanna go 20x8 front & 20x10 rear Vinspeeds on 245/40f & 285/35r tyres.

I like what http://www.hotchkis.net/ do to classics.

[GKsport67]

That nose dive stance im talkn about...

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by JWall

Air (when done correctly) rides a lot better than static.

I've had both. If you are trying to decide between the two it will just depend on several things including your budget, the use of the truck, etc.

Whats the cost difference? When done correctly? What should i look for in the build quality?

[SCOTI]

My 68 & 74 were both set-up very similarly. Dropped spindles up front, cut 1-coil from the springs, poly bushed large diameter OE sway bars, & standard replacement shocks w/custom mounts to optimize shock travel.

The rears were drastically different. The 68 had bags, blocks, modified shock brackets, standard replacement shocks. The 74 has a flip kit on the OE HD 8-leaf spring pack, 2" shackles, shock extenders, & replacement gas shocks.

The 68 rides much better (and that's just bags on the rear). Put them up front as well (making sure the ride height is @ the bags optimum pressure) & it would ride better. With the right sway bars & shocks, the handling will be equal as well. I'm currently working toward replacing the 74's rear suspension w/some truck arms w/bags & will be adding a Porterbuilt Dropmember to the front.

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

My 68 & 74 were both set-up very similarly. Dropped spindles up front, cut 1-coil from the springs, poly bushed large diameter OE sway bars, & standard replacement shocks w/custom mounts to optimize shock travel.

The rears were drastically different. The 68 had bags, blocks, modified shock brackets, standard replacement shocks. The 74 has a flip kit on the OE HD 8-leaf spring pack, 2" shackles, shock extenders, & replacement gas shocks.

The 68 rides much better (and that's just bags on the rear). Put them up front as well (making sure the ride height is @ the bags optimum pressure) & it would ride better. With the right sway bars & shocks, the handling will be equal as well. I'm currently working toward replacing the 74's rear suspension w/some truck arms w/bags & will be adding a Porterbuilt Dropmember to the front.

Where did you get those bags, blocks, modified shock brackets, standard replacement shocks?


What brand are those poly bushed large diameter OE sway bars?

I need to upgrade to 5 lugz & disc brake. Can i get parts from a junkyard to cut the cost down?

[72BlckButy]

Be prepared to receive a wide array of responses to your question. I have never owned a bagged truck (plan to in the future) but currently have a staticly dropped truck (4.5/6" ECE) and love the ride.

As Ken mentioned above, quality parts for either suspension will provide for superior ride/handling.

Are you planning on hauling anything in the bed? The I would consider running bags at least in the rear. Depending on the load a static rear drop will tend to decrease the rear suspension travel when loaded.

How much do you have to spend? It sounds like you will have quite an extensive suspension setup with F/R disc, new wheels/tires, and all new suspension components. I would tell you to consider spending at least $4-6k on a quality static drop, wheels, brakes, tires; I would add another $2k onto that if you're running bags.

Just my opinion.... but it sounds like you are going to be using the best (Air Ride Tech, possibly SSBC or CPP piston calipers/rotors, etc.)

I would recommend researching several build threads to see what components work and which ones don't and see what other members have done. It will save you a lot of time and money by researching things from the beginning.

[GKsport67]

http://porterbuiltstreetrods.com/site/?p=81 this is "Sema Show" quality. looks strong enuff to keep a LS1 under control.

i wouldn't wanna lay my frame though,not my style.

[72BlckButy]

A dropmember is a complete other type of suspension and in a ballpark all its own....

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

Be prepared to receive a wide array of responses to your question. I have never owned a bagged truck (plan to in the future) but currently have a staticly dropped truck (4.5/6" ECE) and love the ride.

As Ken mentioned above, quality parts for either suspension will provide for superior ride/handling.

Are you planning on hauling anything in the bed? The I would consider running bags at least in the rear. Depending on the load a static rear drop will tend to decrease the rear suspension travel when loaded.

How much do you have to spend? It sounds like you will have quite an extensive suspension setup with F/R disc, new wheels/tires, and all new suspension components. I would tell you to consider spending at least $4-6k on a quality static drop, wheels, brakes, tires; I would add another $2k onto that if you're running bags.

Just my opinion.... but it sounds like you are going to be using the best (Air Ride Tech, possibly SSBC or CPP piston calipers/rotors, etc.)

I would recommend researching several build threads to see what components work and which ones don't and see what other members have done. It will save you a lot of time and money by researching things from the beginning.

I would build a 4x6 static with bagz in the rear for hauling a motorcycle.

So for a good quality G Machine type build im looking to spend 9/10k ez?

Im not sure who i will use but ECE has a good reputation on qaulity & fitment. I have a catalogs from ECE,CPP,Brothers & Year One sittn here.

I need those RED calipers & drilled disc F/R. I also need good cornering

[72BlckButy]

In my drop and disc brake upgrade (front disc) and rebuilt rear drums, I've got around $1.6-1.7k (including paint, grease, etc.). Tack on custom wheels ($1k-3k depending on choice) and tires (20" - $700+). Since you would consider bags in the rear subtract $120 from the rear springs, then add the price of the bags and air management. IMO, if you're going through the trouble of rear bags, just bag the front and be done.

It can be done for less but it sounds like you will be purchasing kits from reputable companies.

[GKsport67]

http://www.hotchkis.net/slideshows/ ...no 67-72's. This i what im looking for a G-Machine Style suspension setup. ...it can be bagged but no body drop.

[GKsport67]

Like this http://porterbuiltstreetrods.com/site/?p=225 but no body drop or crossmember.

[SCOTI]

ECE for static drop kits. Ride Tech for 'basic' (no cutting of bed floor) air ride suspension that's geared toward sport vs. dragging the ground. Porterbuilt for the custom crossmembers that will get you as low w/more ground clearance using either coil-overs or air ride.

Where did you get those bags, blocks, modified shock brackets, standard replacement shocks?

Bags were Firestones from Ride Tech. Blocks were CPP (1.5's w/15" wheels) or home-made 2" for larger diameter wheels. Modified shock brackets were the originals that I modified @ home.

What brand are those poly bushed large diameter OE sway bars?

Energy Suspension poly bushings. The sway bars were from wrecking yard scavenging of 3/4 & 1-ton GM trucks (1.25" solid bars).

I need to upgrade to 5 lugz & disc brake. Can i get parts from a junkyard to cut the cost down?

Yes. That's how I did it. I rebuilt the entire front suspension, added the sway-bar w/bushings, & upgraded to discs for ~$500.

[Ackattack]

One thing on the bag set up. Most guys on here run air tanks, compressors and valves. All of these add cost to the bagged set up.

For my truck, since I only plan on lowering it at shows and I will be drag racing it and want to minimize weight I did not put in the tanks, compressors, and valves.

I'm running my bags (RE7s) with airlines connected to schrader valves. Then just air it up with a air compressor at home (I also have a portable air compressor I used for four wheeling and a 10 gal air tank I can take with me for shows, but remove for racing).

So my bag set up was fairly cheap. I did get shorter shocks, shock relocation brackets, and a longer/adjustable pan hard bar from ECE. But you probably need need that with either air or static drop.

[SCOTI]

Schraders only for the rear would be ok. Up front, long term you really should do the storage tank & compressor to ensure the alignment is where you want it.

[GKsport67]

Originally Posted by 72BlckButy

In my drop and disc brake upgrade (front disc) and rebuilt rear drums, I've got around $1.6-1.7k (including paint, grease, etc.). Tack on custom wheels ($1k-3k depending on choice) and tires (20" - $700+). Since you would consider bags in the rear subtract $120 from the rear springs, then add the price of the bags and air management. IMO, if you're going through the trouble of rear bags, just bag the front and be done.

It can be done for less but it sounds like you will be purchasing kits from reputable companies.

thanx for the clear pricing 72BlckButy. Time to do some research n get to work. I like the big caliper SSBC has but never priced their products.

[N2TRUX]

Originally Posted by GKsport67

.... I like the big caliper SSBC has but never priced their products.

Check out the brake upgrades CPP has to offer. They have been working hard to keep our members happy.

[chevyrestoguy]

I have always been curious about alignment issues with air bag systems. If the bags were set to a certain pressure and the front end was professionally aligned at that pressure, does it maintain tire wear like a properly aligned static system?

Question: On normal usage, are you guys moving the pressure around very often, or do you leave it at your alignment number? I see lots of mini-truck guys around here that are always hitting the switches, and wondered if it was really necessary.

Most of the bagged trucks I see have big diameter wheels, and those tires are expensive and are usually higher speed rated (softer than a normal passenger tire). That would get really expensive if the alignment wasn't dead-on all the time. This is the one area that is keeping me from going to an air-ride system.

Riding on a cushion of air versus a wound coil spring is definately going to ride better. Do you run a high or low pressure shock to account for the cushion of the air bag? Can you run a rear sway bar? Is there any type of air connector that you can use that will eliminate air leaks? Is bigger always better when it comes to tanks and compressors?

Sorry for all the questions, but I figure that this is the best place to ask them. There is some very sharp guys on this forum.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by chevyrestoguy

I have always been curious about alignment issues with air bag systems. If the bags were set to a certain pressure and the front end was professionally aligned at that pressure, does it maintain tire wear like a properly aligned static system?

Exactly.... Return the pressure to the alignment set-point & you're good to go. Any deviation from that point will lead to possible pre-mature wear.

Question: On normal usage, are you guys moving the pressure around very often, or do you leave it at your alignment number? I see lots of mini-truck guys around here that are always hitting the switches, and wondered if it was really necessary.

No, it's not necessary. I'm a set it & forget it guy.

Most of the bagged trucks I see have big diameter wheels, and those tires are expensive and are usually higher speed rated (softer than a normal passenger tire). That would get really expensive if the alignment wasn't dead-on all the time. This is the one area that is keeping me from going to an air-ride system.

Use old school 15's or the latest big rollers. Keep the air psi @ the aligned set-point & you'll be fine.

Riding on a cushion of air versus a wound coil spring is definately going to ride better. Do you run a high or low pressure shock to account for the cushion of the air bag? Can you run a rear sway bar? Is there any type of air connector that you can use that will eliminate air leaks? Is bigger always better when it comes to tanks and compressors?

Sorry for all the questions, but I figure that this is the best place to ask them. There is some very sharp guys on this forum.

I've used standard of the shelf replacement gas charged shocks so far. (Gabriel VST's & KYB GR-2's).
You can run a rear bar if desired.
Push to connect fittings or Swagelock fittings work. Just make sure w/the PTC fittings that the air line is cut square/90°.
You need enough air for the system. 5-6gal storage & 2-compressors will be adequate.