how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

psychobilly451 · 03-11-2010, 08:56 PM

I have never owned a truck this old. I took off the wheel and it looks nothing like any rear drum I have seen. is it pressed on or something?

Sinister · 03-11-2010, 09:41 PM

Assuming you have an Eaton rearend, you have to pull the axles to get the hubs/drums off. After you pull the axles there's a lock nut and adjusting nut you need to remove to get the hub/drum off. . Use this hub socket K-D 2770. The drums are attached to the hubs by the lug nut studs. They need to be pressed out to remove the drum. To put it all back you'll need an axle gasket and new hub seal. I highly recommend the Chassis Service Manual for doing all this.

psychobilly451 · 03-11-2010, 10:25 PM

thanks for the info Sinister. I need to get a service manual and hub socket. Right now I just need to get the drums off to replace the wheel cylinders and check/replace the brake hardware.

wheres the best place to get a chassis service manual?

is this it?

Sinister · 03-11-2010, 10:34 PM

That's it. Any of the Board vendors should have it, but I got mine from LMC. If you Google that part number for the hub socket you can find it online for about $30 shipped.

Sinister · 03-11-2010, 10:47 PM

One final note: The Eaton is referred to as the 5200 Lb. axle in the Chassis Service Manual.

psychobilly451 · 03-11-2010, 10:51 PM

thanks again Sinister!

I had full faith in the people in this forum would be a tremendous help.

Truly great and knowledgeable!

psychobilly451 · 03-11-2010, 10:57 PM

i googled the part number and it comes up as for 1973 to current?

**Stocker** · 03-12-2010, 12:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sinister

Assuming you have an Eaton rearend, you have to pull the axles to get the hubs/drums off. After you pull the axles there's a lock nut and adjusting nut you need to remove to get the hub/drum off. . Use this hub socket K-D 2770. The drums are attached to the hubs by the lug nut studs. They need to be pressed out to remove the drum. To put it all back you'll need an axle gasket and new hub seal.

It's been many years since I had my drums off to replace the shoes on my HO52... but I know I did it with ordinary hand tools, and did not press the lug studs out. Is his '67 that much different than my '72? I know I pulled the axles, but I don't recall anything else out of the ordinary.

**truckdude239** · 03-12-2010, 12:36 AM

I've done ti with normal hand tools before also

long67 · 03-12-2010, 02:49 AM

Apparently there is a difference as I had to press my studs out also to get the drum off.

psychobilly451 · 03-12-2010, 06:24 PM

I dont have to separate the drum from the hub to replace wheel cylinders, hardware or shoes do I?

Sinister · 03-12-2010, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psychobilly451

I dont have to separate the drum from the hub to replace wheel cylinders, hardware or shoes do I?

No.

psychobilly451 · 03-12-2010, 06:37 PM

great. I know I need to replace the wheel cylinders and probably some hardware. But i dont want to go through pressing out the studs to for that.

can the drum be turned with the hub attached?

I hope I get my service manual soon so I can just refer to that! heheheh

Sinister · 03-12-2010, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psychobilly451

can the drum be turned with the hub attached?

That's a good question, I'm not sure.

psychobilly451 · 03-12-2010, 06:43 PM

I will have to ask my auto parts guys down the road if they can on their machine.

Sinister · 03-12-2010, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by psychobilly451

i googled the part number and it comes up as for 1973 to current?

It works on my '69 as well. The studs only need to be pressed out if you're replacing the drum. Only turn the drums if they are scored. Here's a link someone had for new drums: http://brakeperformance.com/site/bra...php?&dv=020410

crakarjax · 03-12-2010, 07:35 PM

What's the difference between the chassis service manual and the assembly manual? Hard to find book reviews on these things

vectorit · 03-12-2010, 09:15 PM

I just did all four of my drums last summer.
Like you I wasn't totally up to speed, and had lot's of questions...

In my case I had one drum that would not come off, and after everyone here told me to just beat the dang thing to submission and that's what it took in the end.

So if after you find that after you have drawn up the brake shoes away from the drum as far as they will go, and the drum spins freely with no sounds of friction, and have removed the axle, and the spanner nut's with their washers.

Give the drum a tug or two with your hands, and if you are lucky it will come off of the rear seal. If not, then find a BFH and give the outer surfaces of the drum a few good whacks. Try again to pull it off with your hands, if not then repeat the process. Mine seemed to just laugh at me with love taps, so be prepared to put some muscle into your swing! Just watch out that you don't clip your fender with that hammer.

As far as parts go...

Napa carries the following:
Drum seals
Wheel cylinders
Brake shoes
most of the springs

The spring kit that Napa didn't carry, I was able to get them from the resto shops.

The rear rubber brake line, which I highly recommend replacing I got from a resto shop and I think most carry it. Word of warning though! Make sure you use the correct size LINE WRENCHES, since if you bugger up the line nuts so much that it causes you to have to replace hard line fittings you will be in for a huge PITA. (My rear brake line I had to use a Dremel tool to cut the nut off of the hard line fitting, just since mine was frozen on and I didn't want to damage the frame brake line).

If you are still using the OEM closed knuck front end, the rubber brake lines I had to have made up at an industrial hose shop. I also had them made a couple inches longer, since my burb has a couple inches of lift over stock.
Just find a shop like that in your area, bring in your old lines and they should be able to fix you up.

Also, in my case the automatic brake shoe adjusting arms were missing. I searched EVERYWHERE for those dang things, and let me tell you they are hard to find since if your K20 is like mine it will have 12" drums. The 11" drum adjusters are everywhere, since those are the most popular.
If you are missing any let me know, and I will fill you in on how I found mine.

Attached are a couple pictures of when I first started.

Here is a link to drum brake assembly - It came in handy for me, since I like pictures...

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake

03-11-2010, 08:56 PM	#1
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? I have never owned a truck this old. I took off the wheel and it looks nothing like any rear drum I have seen. is it pressed on or something? __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-11-2010, 09:41 PM	#2
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? Assuming you have an Eaton rearend, you have to pull the axles to get the hubs/drums off. After you pull the axles there's a lock nut and adjusting nut you need to remove to get the hub/drum off. . Use this hub socket K-D 2770. The drums are attached to the hubs by the lug nut studs. They need to be pressed out to remove the drum. To put it all back you'll need an axle gasket and new hub seal. I highly recommend the Chassis Service Manual for doing all this. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 03-11-2010 at 09:48 PM.

03-11-2010, 10:25 PM	#3
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? thanks for the info Sinister. I need to get a service manual and hub socket. Right now I just need to get the drums off to replace the wheel cylinders and check/replace the brake hardware. wheres the best place to get a chassis service manual? is this it? __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420 Last edited by psychobilly451; 03-11-2010 at 10:31 PM. Reason: add pic

03-11-2010, 10:34 PM	#4
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? That's it. Any of the Board vendors should have it, but I got mine from LMC. If you Google that part number for the hub socket you can find it online for about $30 shipped. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match... Last edited by Sinister; 03-11-2010 at 10:42 PM.

03-11-2010, 10:47 PM	#5
Sinister Between Trucks... Join Date: Mar 2002 Location: Los Angeles, CA. Posts: 3,830	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? One final note: The Eaton is referred to as the 5200 Lb. axle in the Chassis Service Manual. __________________ Beat it to fit, Paint it to match...

03-11-2010, 10:51 PM	#6
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? thanks again Sinister! I had full faith in the people in this forum would be a tremendous help. Truly great and knowledgeable! __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-11-2010, 10:57 PM	#7
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? i googled the part number and it comes up as for 1973 to current? __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-12-2010, 12:36 AM	#9
truckdude239 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Lewisville, Nc Posts: 10,238	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? I've done ti with normal hand tools before also __________________ David fuller Ase Certified Mechanic Click here to help support our board!! 1971 Chevy c-10 under going a 4.8l LSx swap Build Thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=421305 2007 Honda Accord my daily 145kmiles 2002 Honda Accord 4 door With 330k(sisters car) 2005 toyota Avalon 228k( brothers car) 2002 Sububran 5.3 245k 2000 Tahoe 5.3l 378 General manager for Marco's Carwash & lube

03-12-2010, 02:49 AM	#10
long67 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Yakima,WA. Posts: 150	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? Apparently there is a difference as I had to press my studs out also to get the drum off. __________________ Mark 67 c20 custom camper 55 Olds 2dr hardtop 96 mustang 11 dodge nitro

03-12-2010, 06:24 PM	#11
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? I dont have to separate the drum from the hub to replace wheel cylinders, hardware or shoes do I? __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-12-2010, 06:37 PM	#13
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? great. I know I need to replace the wheel cylinders and probably some hardware. But i dont want to go through pressing out the studs to for that. can the drum be turned with the hub attached? I hope I get my service manual soon so I can just refer to that! heheheh __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-12-2010, 06:43 PM	#15
psychobilly451 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Poughkeepsie NY Posts: 63	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? I will have to ask my auto parts guys down the road if they can on their machine. __________________ 1967 K20 Stepside Longbed 250-6 sm420

03-12-2010, 07:35 PM	#17
crakarjax Registered User Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Kirkland, WA Posts: 1,302	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? What's the difference between the chassis service manual and the assembly manual? Hard to find book reviews on these things __________________ 1968 LWB C20 / AC / Wood Bed

03-12-2010, 09:15 PM	#18
vectorit What? Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 7,617	Re: how do i take off the rear drum on a 1967 K20? I just did all four of my drums last summer. Like you I wasn't totally up to speed, and had lot's of questions... In my case I had one drum that would not come off, and after everyone here told me to just beat the dang thing to submission and that's what it took in the end. So if after you find that after you have drawn up the brake shoes away from the drum as far as they will go, and the drum spins freely with no sounds of friction, and have removed the axle, and the spanner nut's with their washers. Give the drum a tug or two with your hands, and if you are lucky it will come off of the rear seal. If not, then find a BFH and give the outer surfaces of the drum a few good whacks. Try again to pull it off with your hands, if not then repeat the process. Mine seemed to just laugh at me with love taps, so be prepared to put some muscle into your swing! Just watch out that you don't clip your fender with that hammer. As far as parts go... Napa carries the following: Drum seals Wheel cylinders Brake shoes most of the springs The spring kit that Napa didn't carry, I was able to get them from the resto shops. The rear rubber brake line, which I highly recommend replacing I got from a resto shop and I think most carry it. Word of warning though! Make sure you use the correct size LINE WRENCHES, since if you bugger up the line nuts so much that it causes you to have to replace hard line fittings you will be in for a huge PITA. (My rear brake line I had to use a Dremel tool to cut the nut off of the hard line fitting, just since mine was frozen on and I didn't want to damage the frame brake line). If you are still using the OEM closed knuck front end, the rubber brake lines I had to have made up at an industrial hose shop. I also had them made a couple inches longer, since my burb has a couple inches of lift over stock. Just find a shop like that in your area, bring in your old lines and they should be able to fix you up. Also, in my case the automatic brake shoe adjusting arms were missing. I searched EVERYWHERE for those dang things, and let me tell you they are hard to find since if your K20 is like mine it will have 12" drums. The 11" drum adjusters are everywhere, since those are the most popular. If you are missing any let me know, and I will fill you in on how I found mine. Attached are a couple pictures of when I first started. Here is a link to drum brake assembly - It came in handy for me, since I like pictures... http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/drumbrake Attached Images __________________ Chris 1968 K20 Suburban 1972 K10 LWB PU Last edited by vectorit; 03-12-2010 at 09:17 PM.



Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.