frame???

[jyaughn]

i went to look at another 62 truck yesterday and the frame on his is different than the one on mine. his isnt boxed anywhere and his has a radiator support that is welded to the frame and has the two rubber ends where you sit the radiator. his also as coil springs up front and a 12 bolt rear end. Does anyone know what year model frame his is from?

[Tx Firefighter]

It's a 63 and newer if it has front coil springs.

[1Bad62Pro/Street]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3624826

[jyaughn]

the guy is selling it to me for 500 dollars but before i buy it i was wondering how much work it would be to get my body on that frame? or is it even worth the trouble?

[markeb01]

I'd suggest you take a step back and determine what result you'll end up with and how much money will be invested before buying more work for yourself. In reading other threads, a body swap isn't that difficult if you have experience in fabricating. If you're just starting out you can end up with two projects neither of which get finished. It might be cheaper to buy just a front suspension to upgrade your existing truck, or sell it and buy a completed truck for the same combined amount of money that is already known to work.

[jyaughn]

yeah i might just try and buy the front cross member out of that truck

[Tx Firefighter]

It doesn't seem to make financial sense to buy the front suspension for your truck. I literally throw several of them away every year. I can't even get 25 bucks for one on Craigslist. There isn't really any market for manual steering and drum brake parts.

You could spend the money and buy a newer front suspension and get disc brakes and much cheaper rebuild parts. I paid 100 bucks for my 84 Suburban suspension that I used under my 63 truck. That's about going rate for a later unit. That got me disc brakes, power steering and front sway bar all in one bundle.

[Captainfab]

I agree with Tx Firefighter....why buy something that is still drum brakes all around? The only thing you'd gain from that other frame is the 12 bolt rear end. And that sure isn't worth $500....neither is the rolling frame IMO. You should be able to find all or part of a '71-'87 truck or Suburban for $500 or less. Then just transfer the running gear to your truck's frame. One other thing to think about when considering switching frames is how your local DMV views a frame swap and what it takes to make it legal.

[jyaughn]

if i put disc brakes up front i will have to get a brake booster and new master cylinder right?

[jyaughn]

oh and btw i want to keep manual steering

[Tx Firefighter]

Yes, you will have to change your master cylinder, lines and proportioning valve to a disc brake configuration. Again, later model disc brake trucks are an ideal donor for this job. I used every single line and component off a later donor truck to convert my truck. I had to modify nothing, it all bolted on.

[jyaughn]

nice, and i could just call around to a few local junk yards and get them to cut the front section of a truck off right?

[markeb01]

That's what I did many years ago - $75 for everything forward of the firewall. It might be cheaper to buy a complete parts truck if you have a place to store it, since there are numerous other items that can be used, avoiding more trips back to the junk yard.

Also if you haven't driven yours much with manual steering, you might want to keep an open mind about a power setup. Unless you're burly and like showing off how big your arms are, these trucks can be a pain to bring into a tight parking lot. I used to leave mine in the street since it was so hard to steer I couldn't manage it in tight confines. I replaced the manual steering box with a "rebuilt" unit, and it was just as worn out as the original. Mine has had power steering for almost 20 years now and I'd never go back to manual. If you buy a parts truck this is just one more system you can swap without additional expense.

[jyaughn]

i have had manual steering on alot of my projects. i dont mind it.

[62gmc910]

I agree with what these guys have told you, but if you want to stay with manual steering , if your existing box is still in good shape use the crosslink from the newer truck , the pitman taper and size are the same also use the idler mount that matches the box .
If you box is bad . get a box from a 68? uand newer truck that mounts the same as the power box , Captain fab has a plate for this . the newer manual box a is much better , stronger design than the '62 box.

[Captainfab]

You do have to change the master cylinder, but you don't have to add a brake booster. I have the bracket to make power brakes an easier install.

Originally Posted by jyaughn

if i put disc brakes up front i will have to get a brake booster and new master cylinder right?

[jyaughn]

nice let me find a cross member and then i will hit you up for that bracket