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#1 | |
*************
![]() Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 17,865
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Re: my daily driven '68 LWB 5.3/4l60e
Quote:
Can you give details on your cruise setup? What handle did you use? What all is involved?
__________________
Rob - https://www.instagram.com/hart_rod_c10 As Iron Sharpens Iron, So One Man Sharpens Another. Proverbs 27:17 FOR SALE: DBW pedal bracket - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=651123 FOR SALE: Hood Brackets http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=679945 1987 Silverado SWB - 34.5K original miles http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=801834 1969 SuperBurb - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=200387 1968 Farm truck - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=358692 1968 SWB - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=551258 1948 Chevy - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=122164&page=3 |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Alma, Arkansas
Posts: 75
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Re: my daily driven '68 LWB 5.3/4l60e
I used a factory headlight switch......you can see it in one of my interior pictures. Its in the factory manual choke location. Its kinda lame if you're into chrome and billet, but my requirements were to keep it factory appearing. I wired it so that pulling the switch out, like the headlights are on, enables the cruise. To engage the cruise you rotate the dimmer part of the switch. The dbw setup on the genIII tac module has everything you need. I didn't bother with an accel switch, it wasn't that important to me. The lame part is that the tac module needs to see a high to low transition for the engage input, so you you have to rotate the dimmer switch towards the on position then back to the off position. The dimmer is just a potentiometer, so you only have to rotate enough to generate the correct voltage for the input and then back. It works well and is safe. You have to have the switch pulled out to use it and the tac module has an input for the brake switch. I did have to use a relay to get a normally closed contact. I'd like to put a small torsional spring on the dimmer part of the switch so that it will spring back and feel a little better.
Last edited by speed-racer; 04-04-2010 at 11:22 PM. |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Red Bud, IL (Home) Newton, IL (Shop)
Posts: 301
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Re: my daily driven '68 LWB 5.3/4l60e
Sweet truck, I like the stock appearance and patina. What did you use for radiator and fans? I'm in the process of rounding up parts to put a 4.8/4l60e in my 67. I got both engine and trans with 60,000 miles for $750 and the 20 horsepower difference didn't seem like that big a deal for the price.
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Alma, Arkansas
Posts: 75
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Re: my daily driven '68 LWB 5.3/4l60e
I used a radiator from a '95 silverado with a 4.3 v6 and the factory 5.3 clutch fan. I finished this swap 3 years ago and wanted to do it with parts that could be bought at the local parts stores , so the radiator just made sense. The hoses are the factory 5.3 hoses....I had to cut the lower hose a little shorter, but they worked well.
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