ignition questions

[kanuck]

I just bought an 1984 3/4 ton LB and it has sat for a year because the ignition was screwed. Has a tilt column and the key turns, but no contact.
Questions are can I get the ignition cylinder out easy? or what year columns fit or are cylinders the same between years. Truck was a good runner before the ignition problem with a rebuilt engine, rebuilt 700r4 and rebuilt rear end and parked because of the ignition and price of fuel to drive as the lady who owned it for the last 8 years said. She spent $4000 on it in the last 5 years and then sold for $400 when she had to move. Rusty but lots of parts to build my short box.

[JR0187]

Have you checked the starter and fuses. I had to replace the coloum in my 87' and I think it may have been a newer one because the steering wheel was kind of weird and not like you would expect on a older chevy. Also it has some kind of little silver box on it that wasn't on my old one.

[Restrorob]

The ignition switch should be mounted to the lower top of the column just above the brake pedal, A rod runs down the column from the tumbler to the switch for activation. Remove the switch from the column and try activating it with a phillips screw driver, Then check the rod for movement when the tumbler is turned.....

[piecesparts]

It is NOT easy to take the switch off of the steering column, but it can be done---had to do it on the Hot rod power Tour once. The column can be loosened from the dash, by taking the two 15 MM nuts off of the bottom side of the dash and that allows you to push the column downward to allow room to reach the two screws/bolts that holds the ignition switch to the top of the column. (remove the bottom instrument panel cover and remove the ventilation tube that runs across above the driver's feet to allow room to do things) Once you have it out, then you can let it hang down on the wiring harness and as stated above, actuate the switch with a screwdriver moving the switch assembly back and forth allowing for the contacts to be made up. If you go this far, you will have to ensure that the switch is adjusted to a point where the keyed switch moves it when you re-install it again.

BY THE WAY: The reason I had to pull my switch out on the Powwer Tour, was due to the "Cheap" potmetal rocking linkage that the key moves to get the rod to pull the ignition switch. It is up at the top of the column and that will require removal of the ignition switch, steering wheel, turn signal actuator assembly, and pulling the shroud up. This could be you problem, too. Once you lower the column, turn the key and see if the ignition switch rod is moving the switch, if not, then your troubles are at the top of the column.

To pull the ignition switch cylinder, you have to remove the steering wheel, column cover and the lock plate. After that, there is a screw just under the lock cylinder that you can get to from the top of the column. Do you have a tool to compress the ignition lock plate? It is easier than doing it with a couple of pry bars (been there done that).