NO RUN! help!

[dammitmitchell]

allright so here we go..
98 blazer 4dr with the 4/3 vortec...

truck lost it's intake gasket so i bought it for 500.....

pulled intake, VC's, distro, any accesory in the way..

now ive got her back together ive got an issue, she turns, she has spark, fresh tune up and everything, but she wont run,...

ive gotten two (after an hour of trying) sparks into the intake!... that it..

i thought at first i had the distro in backwards... reversed it 180, nothing..
im at a loss, any ideas on what i should check? i gotta get this thing running and out the door.. like three weeks ago..


thanks guys!

[1971gmcshortbed]

Does it make an attempt to start? Or just cranks? Do you know what the fuel pressure is? Any theft codes?

[dammitmitchell]

i dont have my code reader....

ive got a check engine light that stays on
so there's a chance it could be a theft code, and i dont have they "clicker" for it... dangit.

the fuel pressure is great, i pulled the filter on the engine side to make sure it wasnt a clogged filter, it put out quite a bit of gas.
checked the connections at the inlet for the injector spider.. lost eyesite for a while then primed the pump.. good fuel pressure.

i was thinking of the theft codes but wasnt sure. are these also wired to not start if the stereo is removed?
indash bundle is not damaged but no stereo unit anymore.

hwo would i go aobut checking the theft codes? just throw a scanner on?

[1971gmcshortbed]

A missing radio wont make a difference, it's an sfi system that requires quite a bit of fuel pressure, 60-66 psi. There are "poppet" valves in the intake, those can get stuck.

You need a scanner that interfaces with the body control module and pcm to read codes. The remote doesn't control the vehicle theft, only the content theft. Does it sputter when you crank it? Did it run when you got it? Did they overheat it?

[1971gmcshortbed]

Also check your crank sensor on the timing cover if you disconnected it.

[dammitmitchell]

thanks.
there is a minimal back story to it really, dude i know dosent know crap about cars.

it was running like crap shot white smoke and shut off..
pulled the #1 plug an water came out..

so i pulled the intake to check and the gasket between thewater way and the intake ports were crumbled and "gone"
so i assumed the head gaskets were good.

im hoping the head gaskets are good.

i'll check more tomorrow thanks for the input brother

[1971gmcshortbed]

I would recommend a compression check if there was water in the cylinder, quick and easy, regards.

[Damien]

The distributor is the cam position sensor, so if it is out of phase the engine will not run (no injector pulse). If you have spark and enough fuel pressure. That might be the problem. I had the same problem on a '95. I shot carb cleaner in the Tb and was getting a back fire, but it wouldn't run. Turned the dist. and if fired right up. I was pissed. It took me two weeks to figure it out.

[tubbedII]

Originally Posted by 1971gmcshortbed

I would recommend a compression check if there was water in the cylinder, quick and easy, regards.

X2, the intake gasket on mine went, but most of it was leaking out of engine, not into it.

[dammitmitchell]

got the uber scanner coming tomorrow (thank god for friends who own shops)
turn the distro?
there's a secondary screw on the clamp that stops you from rotating it, i never loosened that one, i checked the distro for 180.

i'll post the findings tomorrow after out afternoon of beer and oldtimers beating knowledge into me.

[68C15]

these engines have a different way of installing the dist.
with the cap off you will see 2 triangles on the flange where the cap sits below the rotor. one has a 6 and the other has an 8. (same dizzy used on V6 and V8) with cyl. #1 at TDC the rotor tab should point at the one with the 6.
once the engine is running you will need a shop scanner (snap on etc.) to set the cam retard (phasing). granted the dizzy is held with a non-adjustable hold down. I remove that one and install one from a small block (not a chrome one, they don't have the teeth on the end to hold the dizzy from turning)


did the PO shut off the engine or did it die by itself?

[dammitmitchell]

Originally Posted by 68C15

these engines have a different way of installing the dist.
with the cap off you will see 2 triangles on the flange where the cap sits below the rotor. one has a 6 and the other has an 8. (same dizzy used on V6 and V8) with cyl. #1 at TDC the rotor tab should point at the one with the 6.
once the engine is running you will need a shop scanner (snap on etc.) to set the cam retard (phasing). granted the dizzy is held with a non-adjustable hold down. I remove that one and install one from a small block (not a chrome one, they don't have the teeth on the end to hold the dizzy from turning)


did the PO shut off the engine or did it die by itself?

I honestly couldnt tell you if he shut it down or not, he said he stopped, the valve train when cycled make no "noise" so i feel the concern for a bent rod or damaged piston is a minimal right now (to me at least)
i will look at the dizzy again with this in mind thanks!... did not know that..

but there should only be "two ways" that this can be installed right? with the flat keyway for the oil pump there's no room for error... but i'll look as see what i can learn , thanks guys

[dammitmitchell]

only one way to install rotor....
unless im overlooking something

[dammitmitchell]

NEEDS MOTOR....
dang.... no compression on the two cyls that had water in them, luckily motor is 400 bucks local 100k on it...

so dang.. diddnt want to do it but guess i have to.

[68C15]

sumbich, that sucks man.

BTW, in the first pic I see the (6) mark on the left. the dizzy runs off the cam, then the oil pump is driven off the dizzy.
the cap does in fact fit only one way

I also just noticed that the dizzy looks to be rotated a little too far counterclockwise. the cap screw is usually closer to the upper intake bolt back there.

[dammitmitchell]

the pictures were taken to show specifically what dizzy i have =-)
and yes youa re correct, I had bumped the dizzy during removal and it was 180 out...
then during install i was almost and entire plug off, so we got the timing set, then tried her... ohhhh man did she try to start... get aobu tthree or four rotations and then a little stutter....
then put the compression tool on and nada, not enough compression to blow your finger out of the hole ..... grrrr..
i love my old timers, (my buddy willie and his "old timer" richard ((twice retired mechanic)) i learn soooo dang much from them.... had a hard core crash test in 4.3 vortechs... and reminder of why i love old cars =-)